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KA24DET
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I've done it. What do you need to know? Here's the general run-down.
Prepare Car
Remove winshield washer sprayers and line.
Remove hood.
I removed my bumper too, and that made it easier, because I was completely reworking the front end of the car. If you aren't replacing the radiator or installing an intercooler, you can leave the bumper in place. There is a risk of crushing it with the engine hoist, however, so I would remove it.
Depressurize fuel system by removing the fuel pump fuse and turning the engine on. The engine will combust the fuel from the fuel lines, then it will die. Then the fuel lines are depressurized.
Raise and support vehicle.
Remove drivetrain components
You need to drop the driveshaft. With the vehicle raised and fully supported (be as safe as you can be... I used 4 pairs of jackstands), apply the parking brake to its highest position. This will keep the driveshaft from turning. Remove the driveshaft from the differential. There are 4 bolts. Remove the driveshaft cradle. Drop the back end of the driveshaft, back it out of the transmission.
Remove subsystem components
Remove the fuel lines from the fuel rail. Remove the A/C hoses from the firewall, if present. Remove the upper and lower wire harnesses. Disconnect the two throttle linkages from the throttle body. Remove the intake piping. Remove all vaccuum lines that aren't part of the engine itself (vaccuum lines that go through across the top of the radiator shroud) and the charcoal box. Disconnect the exhaust manifold from the exhaust piping. Drain coolant, remove all radiator hoses. Disconnect power steering hoses.
Disconnect transmission from engine, lift engine
Remove the transmission crossmember. Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the transmission. You should already have removed the lower wiring harness from the engine, so just snake it down to where it attaches to sensors in the transmission, and set it out of the way of the engine. Remove all the bolts that can be accessed from beneath the car and from the engine bay. I was able to get all but 2 with dogbone wrenches. The engine will need to be supported 2-4" to access the last 2 bolts. Connect the engine hoist to the engine wherever you should chose to do so. Truth be told, I just hooked a chain around the intake manifold. Affixing a chain to bolts at the front and back of the motor is probably a better idea. Tighten the engine hoist to remove some of the weight from the engine mounts. Fully remove the exhaust side engine mount from the car, and remove the intake side engine mount nut. Now you can raise the engine 2-4", and the transmission will drop. Slide a jack or 2 trusted friends under the transmission, and remove the last bolts. The transmission can now be backed off of the engine and removed. Everything should now be free of the engine as it rests on the hoist. Check for any more hoses or wires that are connected to anything outside of the motor, and remove the engine.

Good luck!
-Brian
 

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LUCKY SLIDES 2 2/25/06
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504 Posts
bridrive55 said:
I've done it. What do you need to know? Here's the general run-down.
Prepare Car
Remove winshield washer sprayers and line.
Remove hood.
I removed my bumper too, and that made it easier, because I was completely reworking the front end of the car. If you aren't replacing the radiator or installing an intercooler, you can leave the bumper in place. There is a risk of crushing it with the engine hoist, however, so I would remove it.
Depressurize fuel system by removing the fuel pump fuse and turning the engine on. The engine will combust the fuel from the fuel lines, then it will die. Then the fuel lines are depressurized.
Raise and support vehicle.
Remove drivetrain components
You need to drop the driveshaft. With the vehicle raised and fully supported (be as safe as you can be... I used 4 pairs of jackstands), apply the parking brake to its highest position. This will keep the driveshaft from turning. Remove the driveshaft from the differential. There are 4 bolts. Remove the driveshaft cradle. Drop the back end of the driveshaft, back it out of the transmission.
Remove subsystem components
Remove the fuel lines from the fuel rail. Remove the A/C hoses from the firewall, if present. Remove the upper and lower wire harnesses. Disconnect the two throttle linkages from the throttle body. Remove the intake piping. Remove all vaccuum lines that aren't part of the engine itself (vaccuum lines that go through across the top of the radiator shroud) and the charcoal box. Disconnect the exhaust manifold from the exhaust piping. Drain coolant, remove all radiator hoses. Disconnect power steering hoses.
Disconnect transmission from engine, lift engine
Remove the transmission crossmember. Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the transmission. You should already have removed the lower wiring harness from the engine, so just snake it down to where it attaches to sensors in the transmission, and set it out of the way of the engine. Remove all the bolts that can be accessed from beneath the car and from the engine bay. I was able to get all but 2 with dogbone wrenches. The engine will need to be supported 2-4" to access the last 2 bolts. Connect the engine hoist to the engine wherever you should chose to do so. Truth be told, I just hooked a chain around the intake manifold. Affixing a chain to bolts at the front and back of the motor is probably a better idea. Tighten the engine hoist to remove some of the weight from the engine mounts. Fully remove the exhaust side engine mount from the car, and remove the intake side engine mount nut. Now you can raise the engine 2-4", and the transmission will drop. Slide a jack or 2 trusted friends under the transmission, and remove the last bolts. The transmission can now be backed off of the engine and removed. Everything should now be free of the engine as it rests on the hoist. Check for any more hoses or wires that are connected to anything outside of the motor, and remove the engine.

Good luck!
-Brian
x 2 but one thing you dont need to take the drive shaft out just unbolt the tranny from the motor this will save you 2+ hours of bitching. I've done the engine take out with mine 3 times in a week so its an easy job last time i took the motor out i had it ready to pull in 45 mins. another thing is the bolt behind the head on the tranny is a bit of a tight fit. and its a lil pain to get the exhaust manifold unbolted from the down pipe but this will make an easy take out but make sure you get the plugs from the transmission unhooked and there is a plug underneath the engine that goes to the power steering line unplug it or you'll pull the wires from the plug when you raise the motor. there are 2 wiring harnesses on the motor one that controls the fuel and sensors and whatnot and you have another underneath thats running from the starter and alternator there are 3 ways to go about removing the bottom harness. i've done both you can either A. unhook the wires from the alternator and starter themselves B. unhook the harness from the fuse box located on the passenger side of the engine bay C. just take the starter and alternator off completely. Also whatever you do watch those power steering lines below the motor they are extremely important and not cheap to replace. as for the top wiring harness basically just unplug everything you see and take the harness and lay it over the side of the fender. i would also recommend unplugging the ECU also to keep from frying fuses and or the ecu itself. PS lines going to the pump do have to come off as do AC lines. no worries bout the clutch lines or anything else but much luck to you as you embark into this project.

Don
 
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