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Discussion Starter #1
So will the engine fit in a 2001 Nissan Sentra SE 2.0? I'm planning to switch out the stock SR20DE that's currently in there. If not I was looking into the engines for the 02' up Sentra SE-R (which, I might get this wrong, is the QR25DET right?)

Just trying to get some info before I buy. Thanks!
 

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NISSAN SLAP NUTS
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Yes. for the money u put into the vet u could have a nice turbo kit set up 4 the sr20de-t or qr25de-t . most likey pushn better numbers for ur buck..IMO.

chip
 

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just +T the motor you have, if theres nothing wrong with it why get rid of it. I DE+T'd my SE-R for about $1,100. Which is cheaper than buying a VE motor for $1,300+
 

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not to mention the hassle you will go through trying to tune the VET and the ongoing problems afterwards... QR25DET wud b ur best bet :)
 

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First off. Why the hell do you want to swap out the SR for a QR?

not to mention the hassle you will go through trying to tune the VET and the ongoing problems afterwards... QR25DET wud b ur best bet :)
tuning VE-T is no different than any other car.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well okay then... I guess I should just look into making my SR20DE better. I mean, in the 10+ years that I've owned it, it has never broken down, and the only thing that I had to do to the engine is to replace the alternator. Yup, now I'm just looking towards finding a good setup for it.

Anyone have any ideas for a SR20DE+T setup? I'm not really good with finding the right things. And I'm just looking for bolt-ons, mostly.
 

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Well okay then... I guess I should just look into making my SR20DE better. I mean, in the 10+ years that I've owned it, it has never broken down, and the only thing that I had to do to the engine is to replace the alternator. Yup, now I'm just looking towards finding a good setup for it.

Anyone have any ideas for a SR20DE+T setup? I'm not really good with finding the right things. And I'm just looking for bolt-ons, mostly.
with turbo you have to drill into the block for a oil return and theres alot of fabrication with intercooler piping and etc. Why dont you stick to cold air intakes and header(s) for now. Seems like youre looking to rush into something youre not sure about. 02.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
with turbo you have to drill into the block for a oil return and theres alot of fabrication with intercooler piping and etc. Why dont you stick to cold air intakes and header(s) for now. Seems like youre looking to rush into something youre not sure about. 02.
Well, actually I'm doing quite the opposite. I want to look into what there is for my car and what possibilities I have. I know that there is a lot of work for these things, and it takes time to shop, drop (the cash), and roll (with the plan).

For now that's what I have planned, just a cold air intake, which I might just get a 3"... not quite sure what I want to do yet. But the main thing is that I'm just trying to get information. It's going to be at least a year before I have everything in order for my '01 Sentra.

And 2dr, it was just an idea that I had since I heard that Neo VVT on the SR20VE was really well made. I guess I don't know the capabilities of that engine versus the SR20DE that I have right now.
 

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just +T the motor you have, if theres nothing wrong with it why get rid of it. I DE+T'd my SE-R for about $1,100. Which is cheaper than buying a VE motor for $1,300+
because a DE is high compression and can't reliably be tuned for much boost.

swapping in a VET will give more base power, and the ability to tune the engine for higher boost at less cost.

if he goes DE+T with a bolt on kit, he'll be looking at around 200bhp. the VET is SAFELY at 247BHP. if he wants the DE+T to get close to the VET and still have an engine that doesn't want to blow up soon, he's gonna have to put some cash into forged lower compression internals. simple as that. i don't care if people have done it before, an engine built for boost from the factory is always better than a stock N/A engine with a turbo kit on it. i'd do a bluebird DET swap before doing a DE+T.

he can buy a bluebird SR20DET through Nipponmotors and then send his DE ECU to JWT for a turbo retune and be pretty much set. and that's for under $2000
 

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because a DE is high compression and can't reliably be tuned for much boost.

swapping in a VET will give more base power, and the ability to tune the engine for higher boost at less cost.

if he goes DE+T with a bolt on kit, he'll be looking at around 200bhp. the VET is SAFELY at 247BHP. if he wants the DE+T to get close to the VET and still have an engine that doesn't want to blow up soon, he's gonna have to put some cash into forged lower compression internals. simple as that. i don't care if people have done it before, an engine built for boost from the factory is always better than a stock N/A engine with a turbo kit on it. i'd do a bluebird DET swap before doing a DE+T.

he can buy a bluebird SR20DET through Nipponmotors and then send his DE ECU to JWT for a turbo retune and be pretty much set. and that's for under $2000
You have no clue what your talking about. Quit just copy and pasting stuff off Wikipedia. Thats such bullshit that the DE cant be reliably tuned, let me ask you something? where are you getting this information?

The USDM DE is 9.5:1 CR which is almost perfect for boost. Yes the DET has a 8.5:1 CR, with lower compression you need to run more boost to make the same power a higher compression ratio motor can on lower boost.

The DET has some advantages over the DE like, sodium filled exhaust valves, and oil squirters.

I have a DE+T thats my original motor which i boosted at over 100k miles, with big ass cams, running over stock boost, and has been for a while no issues at all, i could daily drive this thing 100 miles back and forth all day and it never blow up and take it to track.

High CR and boost doesnt make things go "BOOM" its all about the tune, fuel pressure, how much psi youre running, air/fuel ratio. USDM DE's have made over 400whp on a STOCK block. I dont know where you're getting this BS about VET for less cost... where have you been looking? cause let us all know. People down in south FL boost jdm/uk 10.1:1 compression motors all day with no issues, you need to do your homework before you start calling people out.
 

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You have no clue what your talking about. Quit just copy and pasting stuff off Wikipedia. Thats such bullshit that the DE cant be reliably tuned, let me ask you something? where are you getting this information?

The USDM DE is 9.5:1 CR which is almost perfect for boost. Yes the DET has a 8.5:1 CR, with lower compression you need to run more boost to make the same power a higher compression ratio motor can on lower boost.

The DET has some advantages over the DE like, sodium filled exhaust valves, and oil squirters.

I have a DE+T thats my original motor which i boosted at over 100k miles, with big ass cams, running over stock boost, and has been for a while no issues at all, i could daily drive this thing 100 miles back and forth all day and it never blow up and take it to track.

High CR and boost doesnt make things go "BOOM" its all about the tune, fuel pressure, how much psi youre running, air/fuel ratio. USDM DE's have made over 400whp on a STOCK block. I dont know where you're getting this BS about VET for less cost... where have you been looking? cause let us all know. People down in south FL boost jdm/uk 10.1:1 compression motors all day with no issues, you need to do your homework before you start calling people out.
so you're telling me that a DE+T can handle as much boost as a DET or a VET on max possible boost without putting anymore money into the engines aside from the cost of swapping or bolting on a turbo kit, and still put down as much power and not blow up?
 

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so you're telling me that a DE+T can handle as much boost as a DET or a VET on max possible boost without putting anymore money into the engines aside from the cost of swapping or bolting on a turbo kit, and still put down as much power and not blow up?
First off, i never said the DE could handle as much boost as the DET motor, VET motors are very expensive and hard to find, unless you buy a VE motor and turbo that, which VE has higher compression then the USDM DE, i think the VE is about 10.3:1 or something. Best bang for the buck is (+T) unless your motor is junk and has high mileage. To answer your question. Yes, DET can handle more boost then a higher compression DE, but you're not listening

with lower compression you need to run more boost to make the same power a higher compression ratio motor can on lower boost.
But with High(er) compression you dont have to run as much boost to make the same power. On a 9.5:1 CR motor @10psi your basically running 16.1:1 compression ratio. On a 8.5:1 CR (jdm bluebird, etc) You're barely making 14.1:1 CR.

With lower compression the motor does feel more sluggish unless your under boost, on a DE with higher compression there is no sluggish feeling when not under boost, and when you are under boost you're making alot more power at the same psi.
 

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Your all making quite valid points but it really comes down to what you like driving and where you like your power...

Any type of racing, the more compression the better. Especially for SR's which can handle around 12psi day to day in a +T conversion... Been done and it's still going after 2years at 12psi everyday (with NO work to the short block i might add:fluffy:)...
 

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i just dyno'd today with my t25 and usdm DE @8psi

246whp and 230 tq

ill make a link to my website for it when i finish loading it all.
 

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im limited to psi cause my maf is still stock maf.
 

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wel you can easily pick up 91-95 (i think) maxima maf's that have a 80mm bore, not sure exactly which year's work you might have to go do some research. But standard DET maf's should let you produce 280whp...
 

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yeah the maxima 95+ mafs are good to 325whp and no, the stock DE mafs are only good for 250whp.
 

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Your all making quite valid points but it really comes down to what you like driving and where you like your power...

Any type of racing, the more compression the better. Especially for SR's which can handle around 12psi day to day in a +T conversion... Been done and it's still going after 2years at 12psi everyday (with NO work to the short block i might add:fluffy:)...
it also comes down to can he tune his fuel system himself.

if he can't he's gonna have to pay a lot of extra cash to tune, unless he knows someone that will do it for a case of beer. if not, a vet/det swap would probably be the most cost effective for him right outta the box. just my last two cents.

and i do see your point 2dr, just from my mindset as a mechanic, i think about reliability before power, and a stock turbo engine is almost always going to be more reliable in the end than a +T'd stock engine. that's all. key word almost lol.

the SR20DE is starting to sound a lot like mazda's BP5. N/A 1.8L thats practically built for boost.
 

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wel you can easily pick up 91-95 (i think) maxima maf's that have a 80mm bore, not sure exactly which year's work you might have to go do some research. But standard DET maf's should let you produce 280whp...
As i was saying the DET maf is 280whp... I never mentioned the DE...
 
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