[copperlite]

hey,

I'm looking for a little more oumph from my e16i without a lot of green involved. By the way this project is going to be a little further down the road (hehe) first I have pretty much every bushing to replace on my suspension (plus strut mounts, then replace the front oil seal, and work out a couple quirks. But anyway....I'm considering a junkyard turbo setup. I have a welder and a friend who can help me with fabricating and basic machining, so doing the mechanical side of such a project i know i can handle. But the electrical side is a little different, what kind of mods will i need to take care of for the computer and other things (i'm assuming i'm going to need a bigger injector/throttle body) If i'm running lower boost can i avoid a lot of it? This seems like a cool little project to work on and i do realize it's a lot more complicated in reality then it is in my head but humer me anyway. Oh and if you guys have any other turbo resources that you think might be helpfull let me know.


Thanks!

 

[BII]

JY turbos are usually a recipe for disater unless you know what you are doing. What kind of fuel system do you in have stock? You mentioned a throttle body, so I'm going to assume TBI. I suggest you convert to MPFI, or add supplemental injectors. All this will be predecated by the type of turbo and how much boost you want to run.

I suggest you read "Maximum boost" by Corky Bell, "Turbochargers" by McIness, that will go a long way in helping you on your path.

When you come up with more specific questions, you'll find better answers.

 

[Crazy-Mart]

you can boost up to 7-8 psi safely with the oem injector/tbi setup (this on a low compression engine) ... before getting either maf cut-out or fuel pressure too low (around 9-10 psi).... i wouldnt run over 5 psi on a standart engine without the block oringed or a cooper head gasket...

 

[mille-16i]

I would recomend doing a swap myself be lots eaisier and lots less headaches get a CA16/18DE or a GA16DE and swap it in either choice will near double your horse power have readly available turbo kits and will keep you sainer longer. The GA is out of a 91+ sentra and the CA's come from the twin cam pulsars 87-89 those are harder to come by but can be sourced thru importers if you really want one.

 

[copperlite]

okay,

thanks for the insight guys. I guess i just needed someone to point me in the right direction. I was considering an engine swap, but i'm not looking for a lot more power, my e16i runs perfectly and i've already put a lot of work into it to make it so. plus my car just rolled over to 100k :thumbup: i'm not afraid of doin a little research, i'm not about to try to ghetto it together in an afternoon or something, so i wanna take my time. 5 pounds of boost isn't a lot i know but will it give me a little more pulling power or will it just be a waste of time to put together? I just replaced my headgasket and put new valve seals in btw.

Thanks!

 

[Slacky]

can always swap the throttle body for a webber carb then weld yourself a carb hat and box to hold compression and buy a boost guage and fuel regulator, thatd be pretty cheap if u can get your hands on everything for a deal

 

[copperlite]

If I convert to a carb, then what do I do about my electric fuel pump? Am I just missing something really basic. If carbs work off the princepal of engine vaccume, then how do I deal with the excessive fuel pressure??? Thats a cool idea by the way

 

[BII]

If I convert to a carb, then what do I do about my electric fuel pump? Am I just missing something really basic. If carbs work off the princepal of engine vaccume, then how do I deal with the excessive fuel pressure??? Thats a cool idea by the way

Using the stock Fuel Pump *would* work, but not for very long. The ideal fuel pump for a weber is a low pressure/high flow pump (like a carter, etc.). If you use the stock pump, you will have to add a fuel pressure regulator to bring down the PSI to about 3 PSI. The only problem is that now the FP will be working hard for nothing, evetually it will burn out. You should check out the threads in the e-series forum on how to convert to MPFI, that would be your best bet and not as diffcult as you may think. T/C a carb presents itsself with a whole other set of problems.

 

[Slacky]

using a carb does the same thing as efi, any gas not used is sent back through the return line, u'd deff have to up grade the fuel pump because stated prior to m y comment it would likely burn out from workin so hard boosting around town

 

[BII]

using a carb does the same thing as efi, any gas not used is sent back through the return line, u'd deff have to up grade the fuel pump because stated prior to m y comment it would likely burn out from workin so hard boosting around town

No, the pump would burn out because you have to regulate it to run at lower pressure. A carb is designed to use engine vacuum to delvier and atomize fuel (well its more involved, but for now this what is relevent), EFI relies on high pressure from the fuel pump to do so. If you use a fuel pump designed for EFI on a carb, you will push the needle on its seat, flood the float bowl, in other words, it will not work.

If you use the stock pump with a regulator, the pump will have to work harder, since its pushing against the regulator, eventually this will burn the pump out.

The stock Hitachis used a mechanical fuel pump that puts out about 3PSI, a weber should never see more than 5PSI. What is important in carb'd applications is how much FLOW you are getting. In a HO application (like say a built NA or turbo), you need a higher flow, since the float bowl is being emptied faster than stock. An electrric high flow, low pressure is what you will need. Expect to pay 100-200 dollars.

If you decide to go with carb/turbo, I suggest a dell-ortto or DCOE carb, they are designed for forced induction, so you don't have to seal the entire carb in a box, etc. Then call a specialist and they can help you with the proper flow rate for your fuel pump based on your particular set-up.

 

[copperlite]

hmmm...with that in mind seems like a mpfi setup would work better with what already in place, with a little more work of course. I've been reading the stickey about the guy who converted a e16s to mpfi, but that still leaves me in the dark about converting a e16i. Seems like using my stock computer would be an option in my case, but then again i'm no electrical expert anybody know what would be the first step in researching this?

 

[BII]

hmmm...with that in mind seems like a mpfi setup would work better with what already in place, with a little more work of course. I've been reading the stickey about the guy who converted a e16s to mpfi, but that still leaves me in the dark about converting a e16i. Seems like using my stock computer would be an option in my case, but then again i'm no electrical expert anybody know what would be the first step in researching this?

Nope, you're stock computer is designed to run one injector, you need to run four. I believe someone tried using a GA16 harness and a S-AFC II, looks like that would work, on paper at least.

 

[Slacky]

ok so i said the wrong carb for forced induction, never the less i said he had to run a fuel regulator right from the start ive talked to vw people who have done it already

 

[velardejose]

Hi I have a turbo carburated e16
Last weekend I changed my stock e15 hitachi carb for a solex/weber progressive dual 34 carb
The damn injection pump rubber boot exploded for the third time due to boost
And I'm running only 7 psi...

 

[BII]

Hi I have a turbo carburated e16
Last weekend I changed my stock e15 hitachi carb for a solex/weber progressive dual 34 carb
The damn injection pump rubber boot exploded for the third time due to boost
And I'm running only 7 psi...

You should look around for a DCOE, or you might have to Box the carb in.

 

[velardejose]

I sealed all carb vents (all air and pressure comes from above), and works perfect
Solex 34 EIES, made in argentina
Seems that the car needed more carb 'area'
I am happy with it, stil no wot because I need more fuel, narrow band O2 sensor reports 0.65 volts when accelerating...
Next project, after all this adventure, is a fi turbo

 

[Boostedvenge]

First off, congrats on gettin' her running!

Now, if you're tuning with narrowband, you're already heading for disaster. Narrowband is NEVER a good idea to tune with. Sure, it'll give you a BALLPARK area of where you are, but it's no where NEAR accurate or precise. I'd spend the extra for a wideband sensor. There's a few different ones out there and can be had for under $300 nowadays. Also, I HIGHLY recommend and EGT gauge. EGT's are more indicative of the A/F mixture than the narrowband.

good luck and let us/me know how it goes! I've got a GA16i I'd like to boost, but she's my beater for now. Until I can get another beater and some garage space, then she'll remain bone stock.

 

[velardejose]

Thanks
I am aware I need a wide band O2 sensor...
There are those Bosch units,
http://www.oxygensensor.net/parts/o2parts/L1H1.html
Theory
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wbntk.htm
Hope to get one in a couple weeks...

 

[Boostedvenge]

The techedge units are AWESOME units! There's a few guys in my club running those. And you can get a Bosch sensor for less than $100. I think Honda's use Wideband sensors and you can get them cheap.

 

[omnimedia]

I'm looking for a little more oumph from my e16i without a lot of green involved.

then dont turbo TRU$t me its not cheep thats why i cant do it