Stereo Replacement and Dash Lights
DASH ILLUMINATION PROBLEM SOLVED
I just replaced the stereo in my 1993 D21, and thought I should post what I learned.
Looking at the factory CABLE: (view with a monospaced font if you need to!)
|FGHIJ| |NOP|
|ABCDE| |KLM|
__[_]__ _[_]_
A = Front Left Speaker +
B = Front Right Speaker +
C = 12V
D = Lighting Switch
E = IGN, Accessory
F = Front Left Speaker -
G = Front Right Speaker -
H = Antenna (if present)
I = Illumination control *to dash*
J = GND (if present)
K = Rear Amplifier on-off signal
L = Rear Left Speaker +
M = Rear Right Speaker +
N = GND (if present)
O = Rear Left Speaker -
P = Rear Right Speaker -
When connecting a new stereo:
1. Connect everything that matches. (Speakers, 12V, IGN) If your
GND connections are not present on the cable, just use a nearby
screw on the chassis.
2. The factory unit takes D (which comes from the headlight
switch) and outputs on I, which goes to the dash lights through
the dimmer dial.
Connect D and I together with a piece of wire so that the dash
lights still work. Since the stereo never dims, I prefer instead
to connect E and I together (leaving D alone) and the dash will be
lit with the stereo too, whenever the ignition is on.
3. One more hint. Just tightly twist up each wire from your new
stereo, and jam each into the right hole on the factory plug on
the cable on the truck. Then, tape it up with electrical tape and
put some zip ties around. No need to cut anything factory, and
the process is easily reversible.
4. Newer stereos have an antenna which is coaxial (one connector
on the outside, and one in the centre). The Nissan CABLE looks like:
/---\
|0 O|]
\---/
O = Main antenna
0 = Sub antenna
--- = outer shell
I just tore an old two-conductor antenna cable out of an old car,
and stripped it. I think I soldered the outer shell to the 0 and
the inner connector to the O. May or may not be strictly correct,
but my stereo works beautifully.