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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my new ga15i is still acting up. It's still makeing that nosie. Which I am fairly sure is a vac leak because at WOT it dosn't seem to do it. I have no idea what would be leaking though. Another consern I have is that I read somewhere that if you have a manule and replace it with a at motor that you have to change the rear main seal or some thing. Anyone know if that's right?
 

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no problem with the seal if its the same crank that was there in the first place...just bolt on the flywheel and clutch (make sure you use the manual backplate also or the starter will not lineup.)

tips on finding vacuum leak : spray water/dish soap solution over the lines... whenever it stop doing the sound, your very close to the leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't know what it could be if I used all of the same parts from the old motor. And I did use a new gasket on the intake mani.

I'm just worried that it'll turn out to be more then just a vac leak and be something mechanical. but then again I do have a warenty. still don't want to pull the motor again.

I guess I'll try soaping it up then.
 

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Crazy-Mart said:
tips on finding vacuum leak : spray water/dish soap solution over the lines... whenever it stop doing the sound, your very close to the leak.
I would recommend that you use a can of Carb Cleaner instead. Start the engine and let it warm up. Then take the can of cleaner and spray the cleaner all around on the vacuum lines and intake manifold. If the engine starts to sputter or die then you have found your leak.

Techno
 

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Sixways said:
Another consern I have is that I read somewhere that if you have a manule and replace it with a at motor that you have to change the rear main seal or some thing. Anyone know if that's right?
uh, i think you might mean the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft. you need it. if you didn't install it, you're gonna have trouble later...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Where is this bushing located? is it inside the motor or on the output shaft? And what kind of problems might that cause?
 

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t3h r0XX0r!!
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Sixways said:
Where is this bushing located? is it inside the motor or on the output shaft? And what kind of problems might that cause?
in the end (flywheel end) of the crankshaft. the bushing holds the small diameter end of the trans input shaft to keep it from wobbling. if ya ain't got it, you'll eat input shaft bearings, burn clutches, and possibly eventually damage your crank and input shaft.

if ya got a haynes manual or a FSM, it should show the trick to removing the old bushing using grease and a drift (although new ones are pretty cheap), but the photos should illustrate where it is and what it looks like. auto transmissions have a pilot on the flywheel (flexplate) and torque converter, and typically don't have the bushing installed. the hole for the bushing *will* be there however.

you have to drop the trans to install the bushing, but it's hella easier than pulling the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What small end? The input shaft was the same splined size up to the end. And I'm pretty sure I know what your talking about now, I have a 85ish Jeep that I just pulled the motor on and it had the little nub you are talking about.

Thank you for all of your help so far.
 

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not sure about the 89's cause I haven't pulled it's tranny yet, but when I did the clutch on my 90, there was no pilot bushing/bearing (100% sure ). The input shaft rested right in the back of the crank. judging by the size of the input shaft, if there would have been a bushing, it would have been as thick as a piece of paper. ???? Only clutch I have ever changed without one. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok I did just go through my chilton manuel and they say nothing about a bushing. the only thing that it said that worried me is that you have to allign the clutch with the pressure plate and flywheel with some special tool. I didn't have this tool is I got it as close as I could. But when I put it back together it wen't right in, I didn't use the bolts to pull it together. What would that do?
 

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Sixways said:
Ok I did just go through my chilton manuel and they say nothing about a bushing. the only thing that it said that worried me is that you have to allign the clutch with the pressure plate and flywheel with some special tool. I didn't have this tool is I got it as close as I could. But when I put it back together it wen't right in, I didn't use the bolts to pull it together. What would that do?
yeah, that's alright. the alignment tool just makes it easier to install the trans. if you can get it done without the tool, more power to ya!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've tracked it down to a vac leak with the use of some carb cleaner. It appers that I didn't tighten down the intake enough on the bottom.

That was a vac leak from hell!
 

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Sixways said:
I've tracked it down to a vac leak with the use of some carb cleaner. It appers that I didn't tighten down the intake enough on the bottom.

That was a vac leak from hell!
Good Going

Glad that could be of some help to ya.

Techno
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well I have a new problem now. My car is eating fuses like a fat girl eats jelly beans. but no really, every time that I turn the car to "run" it blows the meter fuse imediatly. In school electrical was my strong suit but I don't know what is going on here. could the resistor on the coil be responsable?
 

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t3h r0XX0r!!
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heh. get yourself a short-finder kit... consists of a fast-resetting breaker that you tap into the fuse port, and an inductive current direction finder that points towards the short. check on the wiring diagram for possible shorts in that circuit, and trace 'em with the direction finder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
LOL the bracker would be awesome right now. do you need any other tool/s to use that direction finder (ex. a Fluke meter)?
 
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