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Hm, you could also try hooking the "coil-minus" wire on the Accel to the ECU firing signal (G/B), but I think that would throw your timing off because the ECU signal is active-high and the Accel is looking for active-low like a points set. You could correct that with one of these and it might allow you to ditch the OE coil:

 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Okay, lol it started (AND STAYED RUNNING!!!) for the first time since New years.
Should rename this thread "how to convert from crank angle sensor to vacuum advance".
Will post instructions when I don't have work in 15m and the car is in front of me❤
All thanks to VStar650CL for brains, and me taking a leap of faith.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
This is what worked for me. No power transistor required. Don't even know for sure how necessary the Accel box is, but hey, i have it so I'll use it. The add-on to text in the bottom right hand corner should technically read that there is a y-connector going from (ignition switch positive start/on wire & distributor positive) --> small red wire on the super box.
Screenshot_20210426-094557_Gallery.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
When I am off of work, I will be sure to post what wire exactly it is that you are connecting to on the WD connector for the ignition switch.
Also anyone attempting this, keep in mind, I am currently having another inherent problem that just popped up with my engine running on (dieseling..?) when I remove the key. I don't know if it's related to this current setup or not
Still useful nonetheless, if you need to fix your car fast. ;)
 
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