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Okay after my car is all the way warmed up it will flat out die when i put the clutch in. Could this be my IAA valve or somthing else. Please help me! Im doing a oil change today and may be getting spark plugs and rotary and cap.

Adam Coryat
 

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Well i messed with the car checking diffrent things. And i opened up the gas tank and alot of pressure was realeased. I then ran it with out the gas cap and it ran fine idled very smoothly after that i went to napa auto parts got a vented cap and know it works great. Is this the right way to fix it or is there somthing else wrong with it thanx.
 

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Check your charcoal canister and related parts...that's supposed to relieve the pressure to keep HC (hydro carbons) from escaping in the atmosphere...when you fill your tank...those waves in the air spilling out are hydocarbons.

If you have massive pressure that mean either...it got really hot while your car was just sitting there...or your purge canister isn't working.

Man that cap might cause an engine code...your tank isn't supposed to "breath" like that. It's supposed to be completly inclosed and sealed. Emissions stuff rules.
 

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LUCKY SLIDES 2 2/25/06
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240sxs1377 said:
Okay after my car is all the way warmed up it will flat out die when i put the clutch in. Could this be my IAA valve or somthing else. Please help me! Im doing a oil change today and may be getting spark plugs and rotary and cap.

Adam Coryat
does it die when you push the clutch in to stop or what?

Don
 

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it would die when i slowed down. Where is the purge canister and how much would it be to replace it. Also if it is sitting there it idles any where from 250 to 800 and somtimes will die.
 

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Was it that canister located in the gas tank??
If that wasnt it it could also be Idle Air Controller... My old Chevy Beretta had a problem with the Idle Air Controller and it wouldnt idle smooth and like you said would flux alot and would die on occasion.
 

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it fixed its self after i put a vented gas cap in so i dont think that was the problem. How would i replace it if it is inside the gas tank. Also where is the pcv valve located.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Would having all those hydro waves affect my gas milage at all.
 

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the canister is under the hood. It's not in the tank. But since your idle is so low I'de check the voltage and res. of that sensor.

Do the 240's have an adustable idle screw...my accord has a screw on the intake manifold that you can use to adust the idle...but still...check that sensor.
 

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KA24DET
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To adjust the idle on the 240SX, you need to mess with the IAV (Idle air valve). There are two valves like that on the throttle body, I have an excellent picture of them. I'll post it tonight, if you want.
 

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bridrive55 said:
To adjust the idle on the 240SX, you need to mess with the IAV (Idle air valve). There are two valves like that on the throttle body, I have an excellent picture of them. I'll post it tonight, if you want.

Please do, Im having a similar problem, and would love to try messing with those valves.
 

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KA24DET
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I don't think you can do much, but replacing them sure would help, at least in the case of the FICD solenoid. Here's the S13 throttle body:

This is a view from the side, notice the position of the throttle position sensor (TPS). The Intake Air Control Valve / Auxiliary Air Control Valve is what controls the idle speed. There is also an idle speed controller on the ECU on the 89-90 (KA24E) ECU, but this will only raise the total idle speed and not fix your IACV-AAC problem. If you can't fix it, replace the IACV-AAC. A dealer can also adjust them for you.
 

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I just drove a 91 ka24de 240 (mine is a ka24e).

It did the same thing...minus the low idle.

I drove it around and then turned into a parking lot to turn around, right when I was gonna go it didn't...cause it died.

Every time I came to a stop it would die.

Also, compared to my Accord...and my sohc 240, this de felt gutless and weak. I got it up to 4-5k and it still didn't feel right.

I guessed timing or something. I was test driving it and opted out of buying this one. Really nice and clean other than that, but I wanted a good runner, but mostly just wanted to drive a de.

Any way check timing, check the canister, BEFORE you replace stuff CHECK them, check the IAV. I'm just throwing crap out there

By check I mean mechanical and electrical...being resistance and correct voltage at specified operation. I'll look and see if I can find info on ALLDATA (program here at college that has a lot of info for car, make, model, and year) and post those...uh...actually I'll search to make sure they aren't already posted
 

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I looked FOREVER for that pcv valve. It's a bitch to get to. Basically it's behind and down from the thermostat/housing. In between the upper and lower part of the intake manifold facing the firewall. Between the upper and lower part of the 1st intake runner to be exact. The vacuum line from it runs back along the motor a bit and goes up between the 2nd and 3rd intake runners. THEN runs to another pipe that leads into the 1st and 4th intake runner. If your hand is small enough you might be able to get to it by removing your oil filter and reaching behind the oil filter housing + a bit to the right. If you look at a new valve you'll spot the old one this way.

To be sure if your PCV valve is bad you would have high HC and CO readings from an inspection for one. Also you could buy a vacuum gauge and hook it up to manifold vacuum. Start the engine and once at operating temp. Your gauge reading should be between 15-21HG at idle. Then raise it to 2500RPM's and vacuum will drop slightly for a second then come back up. It will need to be the same as idle vacuum to be good. More vacuum is even better. If vacuum is too low then the manifold is not recirculating the crankcase pressure. That is what the pcv valve does and is always open except at wide open throttle.
 

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its the bpt valve

you have to change th bpt valve, its a backpressure valve for the egr sytem. when the bpt valve leaks or is no longer good it hurts the idle and will somtimes kill the engine. dont forget to replace the 3 hoses attched to it they tear easily when you try to pull them out. you can also try testing your fuel injector plugs to see if they are gtting enough current. if they arent a lack of gas to the engine will also hurt the idle and kill the engine. if they arent provding enough current just buy ome wire and rewire the plugs jut before they join the main harness. a little bit of new wire does wonders.
 
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