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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok there is no power going too my IACV and thus the car cuts out as soon as you start it. Good job me battery and S/Motor are in good shape. Right when I used a 20mm spanner too undo this IACV with me m8 we connected it too the battery and it started too bob up and down! There was a small spring in it and and the plastic shuttle inside has a bullet shape going face down into the spring. (This has been my cold start prob all the time) When you start the cold it fires immediately and dies because there is no power going too the IACV! Took it too Nissan and they said I dont need a spring in there and they inverted the plastic shuttle so the bullet shape end was going into the throttle body. He said It should work now. It took 6 attempts too start. Is there meant too be a spring in there and the bullet type shape pushing down on the soft spring? Anyone know why 12 DC is not getting sent too that unit, hence my problem. We know the IACV works but like I mentioned and I need too know about this spring and the way the plastic shuttle should face. Could there be a broken wire hence no power being sent? Or is my ECU dying. If it was then I would get all sorts of probs. I really need too know as my m8 (mechanic) from whom I bought the motor of is not happy I got this problem and he is foxed like me. I spent hours on the net getting info. Not many produced in the UK, hence the prob of replacing parts. It is called a Sentra in the USA, a carbon copy of me engine etc. It's 2:42am in the UK and I will check back about 9:30am for a reply. I am in a desperate situation. The spring and the way the plastic shuttle should sit and why no power being sent. If someone can help me at least with the spring and the way the plastic shuttle should sit, you have my Sincere thanks. We then gotta find why no power is being sent then.

Cheers guys (nissan 200sx turbocharged 1.8ltr, K&N Filter charger, Baily Dump Valve) model S13 hope this helps! Some one told me the O2 sensor(Lamba Sensor) dies after a certain mileage and maby this also needs replacing. The cat has been taken off. In the summer no problems, now the winter it has shown up a few little problems that have been sorted out. A very clean and metalic Grey body motor :) One other thing when I am in it on my own all the windows steam up and I have the rear demister on and the blowers too rid the condensation. Someone said it could be my Heater Matrix, but there is no coolant leak anywhere.

So please help me out, I really need too get this Idle air control valve sorted out. That's all that is wrong! I can live with the mist/condesation for now, just hope the Heater Matrix hasnt gone, or it might be purely down the cold weather and me having my hot blowers on full!(hot and cold makes condesation right?

But I dont see this prob with many cars. mind you I had a gal in my flat once and dont need to into detail but my double glazing was totally coated with Condensation.
 

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Are you talking aboutthe AAC valve? There is a plunger with a spring in it? What have you done to check for power, the subharness plug going into it? If you have no power going in, then you have a break in the harness and thats tough to find cracks or splits. The unit is a solinoid valve that opens and closes. I have cleaned mine of all carbon and adjusted the screw, that works well. You may need a new AAC valve. Go to a yard and get a known good one.

Chris 92 classic
 
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
sunnysentra said:
Are you talking aboutthe AAC valve? There is a plunger with a spring in it? What have you done to check for power, the subharness plug going into it? If you have no power going in, then you have a break in the harness and thats tough to find cracks or splits. The unit is a solinoid valve that opens and closes. I have cleaned mine of all carbon and adjusted the screw, that works well. You may need a new AAC valve. Go to a yard and get a known good one.

Chris 92 classic
No mate, we replaced that with a good one from the scrappy for £10, saved me £190. It works great. That came of a Nissan BlueBird, uses the same valve, had a little carbon in it, but cleaned it out like you.

This is the name of the solenoid at fault which is receiving no power and has a black metal Bullet shaped shuttle with a short thin stem which has a tiny round flat end. It had a spring in it, but me mate lost it when he opened it up. IAVC-FICD Solenoid Valve. I took this Solenoid of and took it home, I put 2 spade plugs on it and inserted the the shuttle halfway into the unit, as soon as I applied power from a 9volt pp3 battery the shuttle was pulled in, so I know the unit is good. But I am not paying Nissan £200 for a spring, they will not sell me one seperate, and from where I live in N. Wales in the UK this car is very rare and all the scrappies I have been to, do not have my car :( I will up a scan of the valve to yah, and if you can find me the complete "IAVC-FICD Solenoid Valve with a spring" from a scrappy then I will gladly reimburse you for the full cost. My mate has the hardest job of finding the crack or split in the wire.

I am not going too give up on this, I am locked onto solving it. Some other kind bloke from the UK sent me the voltage requirements scanned from a manual, and that was very good of him. I will also send you a pic of me UK version so you can see the condition of it. If it was the ECU not supplying power then it wouldn't just effect that, it would cause the whole engine managment system too go wrong. This spring has got to be the right tension as well.

Many Thanks
 
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Discussion Starter #4
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"Sorta-Newbie", I like that, I guess you can see I have a very good understanding of me motor.

Greets, and an early Happy Christmas

Shane UK:)
 
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