I forgot to ad I also have a header with I think 2inch exhaust all the way back... emissions doesnt apply to us rednecks... lolRicky116 said:I found the flywheel (its on the way)thanks.. I now need to upgrade the carberation. Does anyone have any experience with this engine (1987 sentra E1.6S) intake? carb? any info is greatly appreciated
Search this forum for weber, 32/36, DGV, DGEV, there's LOTS of info here. I have a 32/36 DGV series Weber, and I love it (I made a custom throttle bracket, big mistake, use the Weber adapter, that's all I really have to add to what has been written already.) There is also a thread called "blownb310's e-series modification lists," a sticky, read that too.Ricky116 said:I found the flywheel (its on the way)thanks.. I now need to upgrade the carberation. Does anyone have any experience with this engine (1987 sentra E1.6S) intake? carb? any info is greatly appreciated
I found a webber set up 38/38 with adaptor plate I dont want to run duals I basiclly just want to make the car a little funner to drive Im not racing. thanks for pointing out the sticky B11 I appreciate it. I may buy that 38/38 set up today that is unless someone has a better suggestion....bII said:I looked for it, I can't find that search, oh well, I'm not doing sidedrafts anyways.
32/36 has better fuel economy (smaller venturis, and its a progressve carb, the 36mm ventrui doesn't open until WOT, when you really need it). A 38/38 opens both 38mm venturis simultaneuosly, better top end performance, but fuel economy suffers (as does low end torque). My suggestion would be if your mostly driving street, get a 32/36, but if you plan on doing some head work, a hotter cam, header, exhaust, and your looking fo rmore power mid-top end, then go for 38/38, although honestly you can tune both to work marvelously on stock/mildly tuned motors, as is the case with most Webers designed for 4/6 cylinder engines.Ricky116 said:I found a webber set up 38/38 with adaptor plate I dont want to run duals I basiclly just want to make the car a little funner to drive Im not racing. thanks for pointing out the sticky B11 I appreciate it. I may buy that 38/38 set up today that is unless someone has a better suggestion....
I have already read the info on here that I can find But That still doesnt give the answer to Qu. I asked Im looking for some hard #s for the stock cam. and possibly some input on another brand possibly Isky,Crane etc. I keep running into deadendsLazarus_023 said:search.
this was asked about 3 days ago.
60 bucks for a regrind? I just might do that.n12 nut said:If you want performance camshaft have yours reground.
Bought that 177 dollar "euro" cam. Was not inpressed, the 242 is advetised not actual. 242 is a nudge over stock.
Had stock cam reground to 262(212 actual).390 lift. that helped out a bit. Cost including shipping(local ups) $60 bucks. Boy did I feel stupid blowing the extra hundred and somthing bucks. Regrind by delta cam Tacoma Wa.
Call em and ask all questions ya want give them engine mods. (head work, carb, exhaust, desired engine rpm range) and they help u pick the best cam 4 your use.
WOW this sound like a advertizzzment !!!
I just know they did me right.
i wish i had the throttle cable adaptor that came with the kits, I have the most ghetto adaptor ever.. I bought a throttle cable off ebay and made a cable that connects to the linkage on the carb, and the thing that holds the outer cover of the cable is held by a piece of angle iron held down by a bolt on the brake booster ( yeah i know that's way wrong... ) It works great, I added a heavy throttle return spring too.bII said:Yeah, I tuned it a little, there's a lot of feel and sound to it, almost old world. Once you have it running though, its heaven, more power, and a beautiful sound too. Use the adapter bracket for the throttle though, I ghetto fabricated my own and I've had problems with it, no sense redesigning the wheel.