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Discussion Starter #1
I found the flywheel (its on the way)thanks.. I now need to upgrade the carberation. Does anyone have any experience with this engine (1987 sentra E1.6S) intake? carb? any info is greatly appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ricky116 said:
I found the flywheel (its on the way)thanks.. I now need to upgrade the carberation. Does anyone have any experience with this engine (1987 sentra E1.6S) intake? carb? any info is greatly appreciated
I forgot to ad I also have a header with I think 2inch exhaust all the way back... emissions doesnt apply to us rednecks... lol
 

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Viva el iPod
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Ricky116 said:
I found the flywheel (its on the way)thanks.. I now need to upgrade the carberation. Does anyone have any experience with this engine (1987 sentra E1.6S) intake? carb? any info is greatly appreciated
Search this forum for weber, 32/36, DGV, DGEV, there's LOTS of info here. I have a 32/36 DGV series Weber, and I love it (I made a custom throttle bracket, big mistake, use the Weber adapter, that's all I really have to add to what has been written already.) There is also a thread called "blownb310's e-series modification lists," a sticky, read that too.


The 32/36 is enough for like 90% of E-series engines (no matter state of tune). But if the idea of dual sidedrafts has a hold of you, I don't know if anyone still makes adapters for them, you'll have to contact someone that specializes in that type of work and get that done. If you do, I suggest getting LOTS of headwork done (you're going to be breathing deep through those sidedrafts) and having some sort of dampening mounts built for those carbs, inline fours shake the somewhat delicate carbs too much. A downdraft (like 32/36 or 38/38) is easier and you can use the stock manifold (although someone adapted a pinto manifold, good idea since that manifold has four runners after the plenum, again search).

All the money you spent on the flywheel probably could have gone to more meaningful modifications, like a "euro" cam, some tires, springs, etc. I don't think the stock flywheel is holding anyone back, but that's just me.

EDIT: I just read this book this can become your best friend. I just finished reading it once through, I'm going to read it again. :D
 

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t3h r0XX0r!!
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or read the prominantly titled sticky: blownb310's e-series modification lists
^DOH! been said. whoops.

wtf, people!! stop posting worn-out questions.

damn n00bs.

"where do i get a header?"
"how can i get more power?"
"why won't my car start?"

man, am i grumpy today.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
bII said:
I looked for it, I can't find that search, oh well, I'm not doing sidedrafts anyways.
I found a webber set up 38/38 with adaptor plate I dont want to run duals I basiclly just want to make the car a little funner to drive Im not racing. thanks for pointing out the sticky B11 I appreciate it. I may buy that 38/38 set up today that is unless someone has a better suggestion....
 

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Ricky116 said:
I found a webber set up 38/38 with adaptor plate I dont want to run duals I basiclly just want to make the car a little funner to drive Im not racing. thanks for pointing out the sticky B11 I appreciate it. I may buy that 38/38 set up today that is unless someone has a better suggestion....
32/36 has better fuel economy (smaller venturis, and its a progressve carb, the 36mm ventrui doesn't open until WOT, when you really need it). A 38/38 opens both 38mm venturis simultaneuosly, better top end performance, but fuel economy suffers (as does low end torque). My suggestion would be if your mostly driving street, get a 32/36, but if you plan on doing some head work, a hotter cam, header, exhaust, and your looking fo rmore power mid-top end, then go for 38/38, although honestly you can tune both to work marvelously on stock/mildly tuned motors, as is the case with most Webers designed for 4/6 cylinder engines.

The strength of Webers is that they are very customizable and can be tailored for ANY application and parts are abundant. Any weber you getr is going to work, the 32/36 DGV series is the most common stock replacement and easiest to make work for most applications, although for out-and-out racing other options are better but more expensive.

Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Does anyone here know the exact #s of the E1.6S Cam (1987 2dr. sentra)I found the info on the euro cam .358inches/242degrees or .342inches/242degrees But I dont want to purchase it unless the #s warrant it. Ive got a local dealership giving me a call back on the stock info but who knows how long that will be thanks
Im leaning toward the 38/38. Do they make a sidedraft set up? Im thinking no I havent seen anything in the way of intake unless its custom one off stuff

I had know idea how much online work this would be going in. I figured there would be a frickin manual or something! I bet research takes at least 2-3 times longer than the build...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Lazarus_023 said:
search.

this was asked about 3 days ago.
I have already read the info on here that I can find But That still doesnt give the answer to Qu. I asked Im looking for some hard #s for the stock cam. and possibly some input on another brand possibly Isky,Crane etc. I keep running into deadends
 

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just regrind it !!

If you want performance camshaft have yours reground.
Bought that 177 dollar "euro" cam. Was not inpressed, the 242 is advetised not actual. 242 is a nudge over stock.
Had stock cam reground to 262(212 actual).390 lift. that helped out a bit. Cost including shipping(local ups) $60 bucks. Boy did I feel stupid blowing the extra hundred and somthing bucks. Regrind by delta cam Tacoma Wa.
Call em and ask all questions ya want give them engine mods. (head work, carb, exhaust, desired engine rpm range) and they help u pick the best cam 4 your use.

WOW this sound like a advertizzzment !!!

I just know they did me right.
 

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Ya get yourself a regrind... some specs were posted not so long ago by Blownb310 ... search on this ... it will be a mild/hot cam. around .400lift (@valve)... you can get the stock spec into a Haynes manual.
 

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n12 nut said:
If you want performance camshaft have yours reground.
Bought that 177 dollar "euro" cam. Was not inpressed, the 242 is advetised not actual. 242 is a nudge over stock.
Had stock cam reground to 262(212 actual).390 lift. that helped out a bit. Cost including shipping(local ups) $60 bucks. Boy did I feel stupid blowing the extra hundred and somthing bucks. Regrind by delta cam Tacoma Wa.
Call em and ask all questions ya want give them engine mods. (head work, carb, exhaust, desired engine rpm range) and they help u pick the best cam 4 your use.

WOW this sound like a advertizzzment !!!

I just know they did me right.
60 bucks for a regrind? I just might do that.
 

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i paid around 140$can for mine 3 years ago...if it can give you some idea on the cost too
 

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Yeah, I tuned it a little, there's a lot of feel and sound to it, almost old world. Once you have it running though, its heaven, more power, and a beautiful sound too. Use the adapter bracket for the throttle though, I ghetto fabricated my own and I've had problems with it, no sense redesigning the wheel.
 

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I have tried the 32/36DGV, the 38/38DGES and 40/40DGV. I personally prefer the 32/36, I got a few modifications on my car and when I put it to the floor, it reacts as if it had a vtec or vvl sistem, and pulls hard. The 38/83 has a great throttle response and makes a louder exhauts noise, but doesn't have the vtec feeling. The 40/40 is the last one I used but had some problems because I got an electric fuel pump, and it was sending more pressure than it was supposed to throw and it was flodding the carb, I fixed the problem and it ran greattt :thumbup: . With the 38 or the 40 i could do some really good tire burning jahaaa, they got a lot of low end torque and very fast response. but I don't know why I felt the 32/36 pull a little more on higher revs.
 

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bII said:
Yeah, I tuned it a little, there's a lot of feel and sound to it, almost old world. Once you have it running though, its heaven, more power, and a beautiful sound too. Use the adapter bracket for the throttle though, I ghetto fabricated my own and I've had problems with it, no sense redesigning the wheel.
i wish i had the throttle cable adaptor that came with the kits, I have the most ghetto adaptor ever.. I bought a throttle cable off ebay and made a cable that connects to the linkage on the carb, and the thing that holds the outer cover of the cable is held by a piece of angle iron held down by a bolt on the brake booster ( yeah i know that's way wrong... ) It works great, I added a heavy throttle return spring too.
 
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