1 No 2 They can't.1. Will adding the AGX's make the sportlines more predictable?
2. Will the AGX's make the ride very stiff if adjusted correctly to avoid bottoming?
3. Will the hyperco's definately kill the GR-2's?
4. Will shortened struts be better than AGX's in front with sportlines?
5. How can you tell the difference between the rear spring rates: Prokits progressive 68.5/159.9
and Sportlines progressive 191.4/142.8
Probably, but the GR-2's will probably be adequate. It all depends what your intended purpose of the vehicle is. If you'll be predominately street, they will probably be fine.dho said:1. Will adding the AGX's make the sportlines more predictable?
If you are using the strut to absorb bumps, the ride will be very stiff. Then once you are mid corner and all the weight has transfered, all the motion of the suspension has been taken up and the strut is no longer assisting the spring in absorbing bumps. The car will bottom.dho said:2. Will the AGX's make the ride very stiff if adjusted correctly to avoid bottoming?
I have heard of people running GC coilovers on Tokico Blues and complaining that the struts were unable to dampen the 300/200 springs adequately. The downside of this is the car may become very unstable and bouncy. This may not be worth it. These springs will most likely kill your struts over time.dho said:3. Will the hyperco's definately kill the GR-2's?
Yes, but it adds up. http://www.motivational.net/products/shortstruts.shtml sells them at $235 each. You can't build them for that. I talked with Koni, and you're looking at $140 to take it apart and revalve (might as well, since they're going to be in there anyway), $65 to shorten, and (if you want) $25 to convert to externally adjustable. This does not include the cost of the insert to begin with. Koni wanted me to be sure I really wanted them shortened, as they felt it was unneccessary.dho said:4. Will shortened struts be better than AGX's in front with sportlines?
Do you mean by physical appearance, or?? That 191.4-142.8 doesn't make sense to me. I remember reading it in some archives, but numerically it didn't follow the pattern of previous spring descriptions. Perhaps 91.4-142.8?dho said:5. How can you tell the difference between the rear spring rates: Prokits progressive 68.5/159.9 and Sportlines progressive 191.4/142.8
These are the spring rates and other info that the Eibach Tech support person told me:peter96 said:
5 It is my under standing that the sportlines are a linear spring. I figured the 191.4/142.8 was the F/R rates. 142 is less than 159. If I'm wrong, sorry.
Do you know for sure if you're bottoming out?
What other research are you doing? Koni's website has some good tech articles.
Aftermarket ~ Spring Rates Front/Rear ~ Drop Front/Reardho said:These are the spring rates and other info that the Eibach Tech support person told me
I assure you that your car bottoms every time you corner hard. If you took your car out on the track or autocrossed it, it would be much slower than a properly set up car. Currently your car is too low, way underdamped and has way too soft of a spring.dho said:
I am sure that I have only bottomed twice in the rear, that's with over a full load of people and stereo equipment(about 800lbs total, 400lb stereo & stuff, 400lb 3-people). I'm only a street driver, I can deal with the car the way it handles right now unless I take turns extremely fast... I noticed over soft (gradual) tall bumps in a turn, the front will get a little strange. The car feels like there's no more spring in the bump... like the car riding the hump... I don't know how else to explain it. It doesn't feel bouncy any more at that one moment.
Hmm... why would B13 springs be on the B14 forums? I would think they'd be on the B13 forums... But I'll go look anyways.Skinny G said:The Hyperco's are progressive, read through the posts again at the b14 forums.
No I did not. I didn't know you could do that on the B13s. Can you give me more details please?Skinny G said:Did you cut the bumpstops on your current setup? Just a thought.
Take them out, cut them in half. Hacksaw or x-acto knife work fine. This will increase the travel by 0.875" This change alone significantly reduces the required spring rate to stay off the bumps. it will STILL bottom out on turns, as morepower2 states, but the car should be much more driveable.dho said:(Bumpstops) No I did not. I didn't know you could do that on the B13s. Can you give me more details please?
They might look, you don't know. But what are you going to run while you send them back? Goon the GR-2s, buy AGX's, send the GR-2s for warranty, and flog the replacements to recoup some money.dho said:With the GR-2s they have a lifetime warranty. They accept the prokit lowering, do you think they'd accept the warranty from the Hyperco's or just tell them you had the prokits? How would they be able to tell if the car was lowered or had higher spring rates by looking inside the struts or would they even do that?
I agree, but dho said the car is used on the street. If he were to do some serious autocross, the Sportline's gotta go. It's all about purpose.Originally posted by morepower2
If you took your car out on the track or autocrossed it, it would be much slower than a properly set up car.
Greg, from the center of the hub (in the middle of it, what's sheel?) to the fender edge is about 12.25" front / 11.5" rear. Is your car lowered? Where do these infamous bumpstops rest? Would removing weight from the front help the required spring rate? If I relocated the battery and unnecessary things? With 15" wheels, do they help/worsen/or do not effect the wheel travel?Skinny G said:
DHO, Do me a favour, would you? Measure between the front hub centre of your sheel, to the top of the fender edge. I want to know how low your car is. Mine sits at 13" from hub to fender edge up front.
Sheel? I really have no idea. I must have been drunk at the time.dho said:Greg, from the center of the hub (in the middle of it, what's sheel?) to the fender edge is about 12.25" front / 11.5" rear.
Yes. I lowered it with the Tokico handling kit (I mentioned this earlier).dho said:Is your car lowered? Where do these infamous bumpstops rest?
Yes, but not enough. If you have less weight on the front, there will be less weight transfer and less body roll. I doubt you would be able to remove enough weight to make it work out the way you want. Removing weight (or relocating weight) will also raise the car somewhat - but notice it really isn't significant. Look at cars with CF hoods and trunk mount batteries - they don't look any higher (with or withought coilovers).dho said:Would removing weight from the front help the required spring rate?
Wheel size should not affect wheel travel. Wider offset will slightly raise the roll centre, which is a good thing for reducing body roll, but essentially unnoticeable.dho said:With 15" wheels, do they help/worsen/or do not effect the wheel travel?
The ST anti-roll bars (sway bars) will add to the overall spring rate - this is a good thing for you. It will not cause your ride quality to deteriorate (allthough I found them to make the car a bit less precise on the road), and will greatly improve the cornering (especially on smooth corners). They will not increase wheel travel. (I just typed "sheel" there.... I don't know why I do this) You can also forget about drive-on car hoists and automated car washes with these bars.dho said:With the suspension techniques anti-sway bars and front and rear strut tower braces, how much do they specifically effect the roll of the car? Do they allow more wheel travel in the turns?
I don't know. Probably, but you might be wise to roll the fender edges anyway. I had to do that to fit my 205/60R13 race tires on 13x7" rims (5" backspacing).dho said:My car will bark in the rear fender wells when I have 205/50/15's, would getting the hyperco's allow me to run these size tires?
Yes. Huge.dho said:When running stickier & wider tires, won't the body roll more because of the gripping?
Between every tire manufacturer, and even between tire models from the same manufacturer, the widths can vary. You may find a 205 that is the same, wider, or narrower width than another 205. Tire width is measured from sidewall to sidewall, not tread. "205" refers to the section width (sidewall to sidewall) in millimetres. A 205/50R15 tire is 205mm wide, 102.5mm tall sidewalls (50% of 205), and goes ona 15" rim.dho said:How do you figure the exact tread width between the 195/50/15's vs 205/50/15's on a 6.5" wheel?
I lied, it's not at the B14 forum. Have you read through the technical information at http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14576 ? All progressive rate springs are made by varying the coil windings along the length of the spring. Tighter coil windings produce a softer spring rate. The forum states that the "working rate" of the spring (the rate while the car is at rest) is 270/180. That is, the progressive nature of the spring has been compressed up to 270 lbs-in by the time the car is sitting at ride height. They will lower the car approximately 1"dho said:How are the hyperco's designed for their progressive spring rates? At what compression do they increase to 300/200? How low will these exactly lower the car?