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im2kwik4u
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188 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i recently replaced my passenger side with a raxles axle, and i just started noticing some oil spots on my driveway, its not motor oil so it has to be tranny oil. I have searched that whenever u change axles your supposed to change the seals, so im thinking that its that, because i had some problems with my axle before and it was installed and unistalled about 6 times in less than 2 months, because the shop that did it suck A#@!!! . so i decided to get a raxle axle and did it myself
Wherr can i get these seals and how can i install them????
 

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even better the 2nd time
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2,719 Posts
should be able to get them at the dealership, or from a place that rebuilds drive axles
 

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Please Shift Here
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6,696 Posts
crap, the one thing I forgot to get. Looks like I'll make a stop over at the dealership tomorrow to pick some up.

I have 2 raxles sitting here ready to go onto my car tomorrow. LOL, me and Chef have a full schedule tomorrow. 2 raxles, 4qts of Redline MT-90, Prothane motor mounts, UR 2 pc. pulley set and belts. Hehe, my car's gonna be feelin good pretty soon.
 

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Please Shift Here
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6,696 Posts
The Haynes manual describes the process. Since I just got done with mine (thanks to Chef's help), here's what we did:
  • with the car still on the ground, remove the hubcaps or center caps to reveal the 32mm axle nut in the center. Remove cotter pin and loosen 32mm nut. You can rent a 32mm axle socket at autozone for like $16 and get your $16 back afterward, it requires a 1/2" drive breaker bar, and even then, you'll have to stand on the breaker bar to get enough ft.lbs.
  • once loosened, jack the front up and remove the front wheel. Remove upper 17mm bolts from strut assembly and remove the brakeline pin from the strut. You can now completely take off the axle nut and pull the spindle forward to release the axle from the hub.
  • drain all gear oil or auto tranny fluid from tranny before removing the axles. Undo the top 'filler' bolt first to ensure good ventillation, most people use the square bit on their 3/8" drive ratchet or such, but eventualy that'll strip the bolt. I think nissport sells a bit adaptor since it's a square bit. Remove the lower bolt and completely drain, replace only the lower bolt so it won't drip.
  • Apparently, the passenger side axle is a bit easier to remove since it's only held in by 3 10mm bolts on the transmission or something (I wasn't the one to loosen them, but I saw them on the passenger side. Once they're removed, it should slide right out.
  • for the driver's side, you'll need a flat edged pry bar. Kinda like a big screwdriver, but wider. There's this ring lock, you need to work loose to get it out of the tranny. We picked up a 4 piece pry bar set at autozone for $20.
  • the axle seals are the black plastic/rupper rings on the outside of the holes on the tranny. Mine didn't need the seals since I'm low mileage.
  • replace the new axles. Drivers will pop right into the tranny, line it up, make sure the rin lock is centered, and whack it in with a hammer or something. It'll click in and won't come out. Slide the passenger one in and replace the 3 bolts.
  • Slide the spindles back onto the axles, replace the 17mm suspension bolts and brakeline clips. Hand-tighten the axle nut for now. Put the car back onto the ground (once the wheels are back on). Then use your breaker bar to completely tighten the nut. I don't know the ft.lb value, but let's just say we tightened it with the breaker bar, then we stood on the breaker bar. Replace the cotter pin so the axle doesn't move and replace any nut-locking device that was originally on there. Put the caps back on the wheels.
  • Use the side filler hole on the transmission to refill the proper amount of fluid (refer to owner's manual). We kinda created a funnel/hose combo (the mini beer bong as I called it) to get it in there. Tighten the fller screw and you're done.
 
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