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Discussion Starter #1
i plan that sometime within the next two years(im to poor for now:( ) to intsall a bb det in my 2k1 sentra. i was wondering if anybody could tell me how much boost/wheel horse power would i need in order to beat a 5.0 mustang/64 valiant w/ slant 6? or any other muscle car.

orignally i wanted to have 230whp so it would still be a daily driver. but now i want, no, i need to shut some people up(in my area). would 230whp still be able to do it?


thanks in advance.
 

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since the mustang is 230hp stock and normally aspirated, it would still beat ya. Just do the math on the car weights and powers of each, and consider turbo lag maybe. Also, the stang has a ton of torque, which is hard to overcome.

Depending on your mid-range power, I would be lookin at 260 to take a five-o. MINIMUM!!!
 
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What? You think if a Mustang and a Sentra both have 230 HP that the Sentra will still lose? Dude... follow your own advice and do the power to weight ratio thing. the Sentra will SMOKE the 5.0 with 230 HP. Dude, my NX2000 with about 220-225 HP was able to smoke a COBRA. You know, the ones that run 14 flat?

Now keep in mind that 5.0s are VERY easy to modify and can make huge HP even from just bolt ons. But if you've got a DET, you'll take out 5.0s that are stock or close to stock, even if they have a few bolt ons you should still win.

Murph man, you are WAY off. The weight difference is very important, and we're talking about a 500-600 lb difference between the Sentra and the 5.0 Mustang. A Sentra with 260 HP will be running mid 13 second 1/4 mile times... that's faster than the new Mustangs, never mind the older ones.
 

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in^3,N20,RPM,PSI
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the question isn't how much boost you need to beat a mustang but how much to get to 230 hp. I don't remember the model line but you have the sr20de in your car right? there are tons of turbo kits and options you have. just remember like Zak said above, you can both add horsepower very easily... but taking off weight is not so easy! and that is where you have the advantage of being lighter!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i have a sentra se with an sr20de. would it be cheaper to buy a turbo kit or swap in a sr20det engine?

are there any 50 state legal turbos for nissans? or at least california legal.

also how are power to weight ratios done? is it horse power or torque divided into weight? also, what would be the units of measure, hp, lbs/ft, watts, kilos, lbs?

thanks
 

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it would be easir to just urbo charge the de, not doing the swap to det
 

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Zak91SE-R said:
What? You think if a Mustang and a Sentra both have 230 HP that the Sentra will still lose? Dude... follow your own advice and do the power to weight ratio thing. the Sentra will SMOKE the 5.0 with 230 HP. Dude, my NX2000 with about 220-225 HP was able to smoke a COBRA. You know, the ones that run 14 flat?

Now keep in mind that 5.0s are VERY easy to modify and can make huge HP even from just bolt ons. But if you've got a DET, you'll take out 5.0s that are stock or close to stock, even if they have a few bolt ons you should still win.

Murph man, you are WAY off. The weight difference is very important, and we're talking about a 500-600 lb difference between the Sentra and the 5.0 Mustang. A Sentra with 260 HP will be running mid 13 second 1/4 mile times... that's faster than the new Mustangs, never mind the older ones.
'92 5.0 LX weighs in at 3238lbs
'01 Se-r weighs in at about 2600lbs i think.

I thought the old five-o weighed less and the se-r weighed more.

My bad! :p

And the score is,
Zak91-ser 1
Murph 0
 
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shaolin_racer said:
i have a sentra se with an sr20de. would it be cheaper to buy a turbo kit or swap in a sr20det engine?

are there any 50 state legal turbos for nissans? or at least california legal.
Nothing's legal in California. :) You'll spend almost the same money on a turbo kit or on a DET swap. If you do a DET swap yourself you might come out on the cheaper side. A turbo kit will be at least $3000. Best way to go about deciding what to do is: A) decide what you want. What kind of HP, how streetable, on pump gas... figure all that out first, then B) determine how much money you have. Once you figure those two things out, it should become clear which way to go about doing it.

also how are power to weight ratios done? is it horse power or torque divided into weight? also, what would be the units of measure, hp, lbs/ft, watts, kilos, lbs?
Take the weight of your car in lbs. and divide by horsepower.
Stock B13 SE-R: 2500 lbs / 122 HP (at the wheels) = 20.49.
2002 SE-R Spec V: 2650 lbs / 145 HP = 18.27
SE-R with a stock DET: 2500 lbs / 200 HP = 12.5
Chris Allen's SE-R: 2500 lbs / 497 HP = 5.03

For comparison:

Ferrari 360 Modena: 3064 lbs / 360 (at the wheels) = 8.51
2003 Mustang Cobra: 3665 lbs / 390 HP = 9.39
Dodge Viper: 3460lbs / 450 HP = 7.68

These numbers are a good (although not 100% accurate) representation of how fast a given car is. It doesn't take gearing into account or anything else, but in a general sense it's a comparable figure.
 

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in^3,N20,RPM,PSI
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I've got an excel chart full of comparisons of various power to weight ratios and I've charted them all in comparison to their 0-60 times (claimed from the factory), and it correlates directly. I don't know how much gearing takes into affect but the data I have comes from both autos, manuals, sequentials, and different weights from the Eurovan to Ferraris... it's interesting how powerful a figure power to weight is.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
by legal in california i meant, if it would pass the emissions test. i know of a shop that is relaxed on the visual part of the test.

originially i wanted 230 whp on 91 octane. still 100% streetable and to be used as a daily driver. idealy i would like something like the disco potato(280whp with 31mpg highway). but with less power.
 

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You don't have to spend $3000 on a turbo kit. I am currently buying and collecting parts to add to my se-r. Don't get me wrong, you can spend $3000 easily but you can put together a system for cheaper if you want.

T25 turbo,manifold,370 injectors, oil and water lines: $800-850
Downpipe: $175
BB DET ECU: $175
HKS intercooler and Manderal piping: $800


This gives you an idea on what you will be looking at. You still will need small things that will add to the cost but these are the big expenses. If you wanted to you could also buy a Starion IC for cheap and get a muffler shop to build the pipes and be alot cheaper than the IC kit I am buying. I opted to do this set-up because it is very streetable and fairly inexpensive. People have told me with the cams,pulleys, and exhaust I have I should be about 220 whp if I boosted around 8-10 PSI. You can install this kit yourself without being a mechanic. A whole swap would be way too hard for me, but maybe you can do it. Plus your engine probably has low miles being so new. A DET from Japan will have at least 30K but who really knows the miles on them.
 

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If you don't already have a modified ECU you factor that $695 in too! I would consider that a large purchase compared to your others.
 

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Did you not see the BB DET ECU for $175 shipped? Maybe not as good as a JWT ECU but it'll get you on the road until you get the money for the JWT ECU, and if you are paying $695 for a JWT ECU you are getting hosed.
 

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You can find JWT used ECU's for $350-450 and then send it in with one hundred dollars and BLAM, you have a turbo JWT ecu even with the cam program for a total cost of $450-550.
 
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shaolin_racer said:
by legal in california i meant, if it would pass the emissions test. i know of a shop that is relaxed on the visual part of the test.
If the engine's in good shape, it should pass. It'll be close though.

originially i wanted 230 whp on 91 octane. still 100% streetable and to be used as a daily driver. idealy i would like something like the disco potato(280whp with 31mpg highway). but with less power.
I think it's gonna cost some money... it'll depend on how much you're willing to do yourself, if you can find used parts or not and how much you know about what you're doing. If you do a DET swap you can run it at 10 psi on 91 octane and get over 230 HP. Completely 100% streetable, because it's all stock, and this way you get the lower compression pistons and the other DET goodies.
 
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