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I'm wondering how much i can boost on stock internals of an sr20de. I'm gonna be using a t28 ball bearing turbo with all of the stuff it needs to operate properly. A friend of mine says around 15psi or so but i didnt quite believe him. Ive searched a little bit and nothing has come up I just want direct opinions or facts from people that know what they are doing.
 

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7 - 8 psi would be ok, 15 is too much if you dont do some things to the engine.

stocka$$200sx said:
I'm wondering how much i can boost on stock internals of an sr20de. I'm gonna be using a t28 ball bearing turbo with all of the stuff it needs to operate properly. A friend of mine says around 15psi or so but i didnt quite believe him. Ive searched a little bit and nothing has come up I just want direct opinions or facts from people that know what they are doing.
 

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dburone said:
7 - 8 psi would be ok, 15 is too much if you dont do some things to the engine.

I was going to avoid this unless bs info was posted.

dburone, you're wrong.

assuming what he said about having all necessary mods (meaning fuel upgrades and stuff), he can max out the T28 on an SR20 and still not threaten the engine.

it's not how much boost you run so much as wheel horsepower generated. 15psi on a T28 is much different than 15psi on a T3/t4.

So, assuming you upgraded everything as necessary with turbo, you will easily be able to handle 15psi on a T28......you can safely make over 350 wheel horsepower on a stock SR20.
 

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chimmike said:
I was going to avoid this unless bs info was posted.

dburone, you're wrong.

assuming what he said about having all necessary mods (meaning fuel upgrades and stuff), he can max out the T28 on an SR20 and still not threaten the engine.

it's not how much boost you run so much as wheel horsepower generated. 15psi on a T28 is much different than 15psi on a T3/t4.

So, assuming you upgraded everything as necessary with turbo, you will easily be able to handle 15psi on a T28......you can safely make over 350 wheel horsepower on a stock SR20.
It's not so much x-psi on a given turbo but the combination of lb/min(or CFM) and boost (AKA pressure ratio)..

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/turboflow.html

If the T28 is moving hot air at any given RPM you can knock and have problems.

I'd look at getting a good intercooler first...


Assuming an SR20 is a 2.0.. It should be ok with a T28 but there are better. I'd get a different combination than the T28. Maybe a 50trim or something.. There are other comp wheel and cover combinations slightly bigger and even almost the same size which are much more efficient. The newer GT series wheels rock..


I have seen 20psi plus with race gas on a turbo car at 8.5:1 and have ran upwards of 30psi on top of 11.5:1 on alcohol... The fuel makes a big difference too.. Maybe try an alcohol injection system (small amount injected on top of gas) or run race gas when boost is maxed...

You could make 400-500hp safely or so depending on the SR20's rod strength.. With hot air, bad tuning (lean or too much timing) or too little timing you can melt a piston or knock bad and wreck the engine at just 300hp.
 

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MyFirstNissanIsApath said:
Assuming an SR20 is a 2.0.. It should be ok with a T28 but there are better. I'd get a different combination than the T28. Maybe a 50trim or something.. There are other comp wheel and cover combinations slightly bigger and even almost the same size which are much more efficient. The newer GT series wheels rock..


I have seen 20psi plus with race gas on a turbo car at 8.5:1 and have ran upwards of 30psi on top of 11.5:1 on alcohol... The fuel makes a big difference too.. Maybe try an alcohol injection system (small amount injected on top of gas) or run race gas when boost is maxed...

You could make 400-500hp safely or so depending on the SR20's rod strength.. With hot air, bad tuning (lean or too much timing) or too little timing you can melt a piston or knock bad and wreck the engine at just 300hp.

You obviously don't know much about the SR20 so don't post. We don't need guys/gals going around here giving bad information. Hell you didn't even 100% know that the SR20 was a 2.0L :rolleyes:
 

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♣AsleepZ♣ said:
You obviously don't know much about the SR20 so don't post. We don't need guys/gals going around here giving bad information. Hell you didn't even 100% know that the SR20 was a 2.0L :rolleyes:
guess what I have an awd eclipse with 600hp.

We use T28's too..
 

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uh huh, but you still don't know anything about the SR20 (which is amazing since you have the 4g63T lol)
 

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MyFirstNissanIsApath said:
guess what I have an awd eclipse with 600hp.

We use T28's too..
Just because you have a powerful eclipse doesn't make you the Boost know-it-all. Not all 2.0s are created equal. An SR20DE bottom end can handle up to 500 horsepower stock BUT thats provided that all the right terms are met when upping the boost.

Your 4G63 can handle a lot too but not if it isn't tuned properly

From everything I've read the stock bottom end of the SR20 will handle around 20-23 psi as long as your make sure your fuel delivery system and intake temp is in check. I, however, wouldn't count on it lasting too long at that pressure. 15 psi is a safe boost level that will keep your car running for a long time.
 

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with a us spec engine i personally wouldnt pass 10 psi because its higher compression anyway 9.5 to 1 rather that a gti-rs 8.3 to 1 i think and the reason hes using at28 is because it comes stock off a gtir and other cars so its relitively cheap to get spool fastand last long because they are ball bearing
 

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uh, like I said, a 9.5:1 comp SR20 can easily make over 300whp. If you know how to tune it, you won't have any problems.

so yes, 15psi on a T28 can easily be done with the right accompanying mods.
 

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I dont want to go against your opinions, but i still think that 15 psi in a high compresion engine is dangerous if it doesnt get very well tuned.
And i know that a bigger turbo can deliver more CFM, but that doesnt matter, to calculate the effective CR or Real compression after turbo you need this equation:
E = C((B / 14.7) + 1)
Where E= Effective Compression, B= boost psi, and C= Static compression.

and as you see, what matters is the pressure and the static compression, not the volume of air.
What makes the engine detonate is pressure or temperature not volume.
I know they are related, but i insist, the problem is pressure.
And volume is what you need to mantain the pressure when the engine starts using more air at higher rpms.
 

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obviously tuning is key. if tuned right, it's not dangerous. Make sense?

stop freaking going against what we're telling you. Okay? Geez. There are people with over 300whp running 15psi on T3/T4 turbos on stock SR20s.

here's proof
 

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ooo me me me me lol. i will just second that a lot of people agree that 15-16psi is the the max SAFE boost...i've heard people going up to 25psi, but again i wouldn't trust it to last long like that
 

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Tavel said:
ooo me me me me lol. i will just second that a lot of people agree that 15-16psi is the the max SAFE boost...i've heard people going up to 25psi, but again i wouldn't trust it to last long like that
how long is not long? and what will end up breaking? cuz couldnt you just replace some of the stock internals then run the higher bost with out having to worry about something breaking?
 

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PSr_SEX-R said:
how long is not long? and what will end up breaking? cuz couldnt you just replace some of the stock internals then run the higher bost with out having to worry about something breaking?
Yes. Just replacing some internals will cost, for example:

$1429 + shipping for Ross/Wiesco forged 8.5:1 pistons, reconditioned forged crank, and H-beam rods with all parts necessary to install.
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/pek-nissan.html
Plus machining and installation costs.

Or you can have JWT do it for at least half again more for parts, but get higher quality and built by a shop with more experience building SR20 engines than almost anywhere.

Lew
 

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Tavel said:
ooo me me me me lol. i will just second that a lot of people agree that 15-16psi is the the max SAFE boost...i've heard people going up to 25psi, but again i wouldn't trust it to last long like that
go back, re-read this thread. we said numerous times it's not so much important about the psi as it is the turbo size!

besides, no regular non-ball bearing T28 will stay together at 22psi boost.

it's all about tuning. use an intercooler, proper injectors, proper MAF, JWT ecu, maybe cams if you wanted, 93 octane gas or better, and 3" turbo back exhaust, and you can run 15psi with a T28 on a STOCK sr20de.
 

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chimmike said:
obviously tuning is key. if tuned right, it's not dangerous. Make sense?

stop freaking going against what we're telling you. Okay? Geez. There are people with over 300whp running 15psi on T3/T4 turbos on stock SR20s.
There are several SR20 peeps over the 300whp mark using the GtiR T28 on a stock usdm engine with the proper add-ons. There's even a guy who'se pushing damn close to 300whp on a T25 with all the add-ons. Using a ball bearing T28 with the right supporting cast, 300whp is attainable and will still remain fun to drive. I wouldn't press it past 15 psi, but you shouldn't need to if the 300whp neighborhood is your goal. My so-so tuned turbo 200 will pin you in the seat pretty good. If you're going to use a T3 or a T3/T4 hybrid turbo, 15 psi should put you well above 300whp, probably more like 350-370 whp.
 

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well, SE-Rican's last 15psi dyno run wasn't that good, but isn't he around 365whp before the O2 induction intake mani?
 
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