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Discussion Starter #1
Let me introduce myself as I'm new to the forum. My name is Bill and I bought my first HB truck new in 96. I bought a red 4x4 reg cab new at Folsum Nissan in Sacramento CA. I loved that Truck. I only had 2 problems that I can recall, one was the Alternator. If it got wet, I needed a new one. I went through about 4 of them in the year that I had the truck. There was alot of flooding in the area and I drove it through flooded roads often. The other was the very weak front end. It was my first 4x4 (was about 20 years old at the time) so I pushed it a bit and every time I pushed it hard I was spending $500 + at Les Schwab replacing the front end linkage. Even still I was very happy with the truck.

Reciently I decided to get another Nissan HB (due to the current gas prices, I was driving a Duramax). So I searched, and search, and searched for about 2 months looking for what I wanted and finally found one. I bought a black 1997 Ex-Cab 4x4. It was very difficult to find. It seems that no one wants to sell them. Can't say that I blame them. I love the look of this body style.
Right away, on the test drive I noticed that this truck was gutless. However I searched so long to find all the options I wanted so I bought it anyways figuring I would just put some money into it to make it run right and I'd have exactly what I wanted.
After the test drive and buying it the drive home was very dissappointing. It took several minutes to get 65 mph at that was on flat highway reving part 4k in 4th gear. It got about 10 miles to the gallon (if that) on the 2 hour drive home.
When I got it home the frist thing I did was replace the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and air filter. The plugs where severly wore down. I'd say about 1/8" of the electrode was fried away. The truck now runs better but not much. I'm getting about 12 mpg and it's still gutless in my opinon. it struggles to reach 80 mph on flat highway and if the road goes uphill even a little it'll drop me down to 60 mph.
Some of my friends are telling me that how 4 cylinders run and that I'm too used to the Duramax power and it's all in my head. I don't belive them. I don't remember having any problems like this when I bought my new 96 and that the "in my head" explanation doesn't explain the horrable gas milage.
I have read many of the postings here in the HB forum and got lots of great ideas to try. Seafoam, injector cleaner, O2 replacement, cat replacement, etc. I'm going to try them all.
Now for the question of the title (finaly). Hopefully someone is still here reading after that dreadfull block of text. I did a compression check today on all 4 cylinders. I got 125 pounds + or - 2 pounds on all 4 cylinders.
I have looked for about 2 hours now all over the internet trying to find out what it should be with no answer so I figured I'd pick your brains. Ater reading many of the posts here I belive I'll have the answer I need. I like the community here. There where a lot of help full positive responces here.

Thanks,
Bill
 

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you came to the right place.

seafoam threw brake booster (then clean plugs or at least check them..back 2 for sure!)

b12 at 1/4 to 1/2 tank run till about empty then fill with new fuel filter

look in the oil cap if it looks bad do a flush right before the oil change.

and never hurts to change all and i mean all fluids..(see BBN post)

also grab a can of brake cleaner and spray the maf...saves you from taking it out. the small hole right beside your intake. (2 lil wires in there)


I got 18.5mpg with 20% town 40% road and 40% mud

and my engine was just as bad when i got mine :)

mite want to check the back side of the tank on the upper side for rust...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, I finally found out what the compression should be. I downloaded the Shop repair manual for the 1997 Hardbody and it says 192 pounds is standard with 142 pounds being the minimium. I'm at 125 pounds so I do belive this motor it toast. Looks like I'm going to have to have it rebuilt. If any of you are in Northern California and know of a good rebuilder feel free to give me some referances.

Thanks,
Bill
 

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Hardbody Freak
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redo the comp test and this time shoot a little oil down in the pistons b4 you put the tester on.

if it is getting 125. all the way across and is holding it that is ok..

remember this truck is 10 yo and you probably did not have it at operating temp to do the test..

the oil will help seal it up so you get a better reading ...
 

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Well, I finally found out what the compression should be. I downloaded the Shop repair manual for the 1997 Hardbody and it says 192 pounds is standard with 142 pounds being the minimium. I'm at 125 pounds so I do belive this motor it toast. Looks like I'm going to have to have it rebuilt. If any of you are in Northern California and know of a good rebuilder feel free to give me some referances.

Thanks,
Bill
Squirt some oil into each cylinder. Spin the motor about 4 times then do a compression test with the throttle valve wide open. If compression improves by 10 psi or more, then the rings are worn. If compression is unchanged, then there may be leaking or sticking valves.
 
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