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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Was thinking of upgrading to a higher amperage alternator if I do this I can also get a a little bigger battery I suspect. I wonder what the largest battery that I can put inside my car. I know with the one that is in there is room for a somewhat larger one. I cannot believe how hard it is to put the belt on this car and why in the heck did Nissan leave off a tensioner for the 2016?
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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Factory alternator is 110 amps. It does have a tensioner.


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You also need to put the belt on the right way. Trying to wedge it over the crank balancer on an Altie is a hopeless exercise. Get it onto all the rest of the pulleys including the crank, then slip it over the A/C Compressor pulley last. Much easier that way. It also helps to have a long 14mm box wrench for relieving the tensioner, a socket makes it a complete PITA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I went ahead and let dealer replace my alternator because they gave me so much grief about my installing an aftermarket alternator and because I could not figure out why I was getting a high voltage from the case of the alternator to the ground of the battery. I told them this was a situation but, they ignored me. I get it home tonight and I have to hook up my pilot car stuff but, before I did I thought I would check to see if I still had the voltage reading and what do you know. I have 19 vdc voltage. SO they completely ignored what i told them. AM I WRONG am I supposed to have this voltage?
 

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There's no way you should have anything but ground on the alternator case. I just checked on our '13, which is well-maintained and should be typical, and I got between 10~80 millivolts (0.01~0.08V) depending on the load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There's no way you should have anything but ground on the alternator case. I just checked on our '13, which is well-maintained and should be typical, and I got between 10~80 millivolts (0.01~0.08V) depending on the load.
that is what I thought. and I told them when i dropped it off but, as I suspected they did not listen to me. Also, while my car was there, idk how this is possible because I have driven my car with the hood released but not up and I have driven it for a long ways. but, they said that my hood flew up and broke my windshield. They replaced it but, at the corners where the hood meets towards the windshield i can see some damage. I did not say anything about it. When I asked them on the phone was there any damage to the hood they said no. Also, in order to get me even to consider taking my car there, the service manager told me that it would cost me 353 for the alternator and 200 for labor, plus tax so i am thinking about 600 when i get there to pay it is 815 so i said what is the 125 for and they told me that it was for the tow, which i understand. but, i know that nissan sells the alternator for my car online for 238 plus 75 core. so really the dealer added the cost of the core into the price of the alternator. I had told them on the phone that I had just had the alternator that they took out for 1 day and i needed to take it back. I ran off and left it and remembered so i turned around and stayed there 1.5 hours trying to get my alternator back and had to pay 75 for the core charge. Also as i have stated when i took the car in, i told them about the high voltage and i still have the high voltage. The people that they had replaced my windshield also kept some specialty type screws that i had in a bracket that was mounted to my dash. Oh yeah and when I let them rake me over the coals paying 3965 for the tranny 2 weeks ago, one of the mechanics or someone there decided that they needed my blue driver worse than i did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think they must have damaged pins inside the big connector that hooks into the transmission but I do not think I can get to it and I should not have to. I told them when I took the car in that I suspected that something happened when they replaced the tranny and they just do not listen
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I called them today and told them because I measured it today and after driving it for about 150 miles i measure it and got 12v where I had 19 v yesterday. Hooked up my new blue driver and ran it the whole time and nothing found all is good mode 6 smog all the live data. I am going to do what someone on youtube suggested to do. Is take my jumper cable and tie it to the negative of the battery then ground the other side to the engine. If the 19 v or 12 v goes away then I know for sure there is a bad ground. I already know it is impossible for the voltage to be there without it. The dealer was supposed to talk to the tech and call me back but, they did not
 

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If there is a bad casing ground, the casing voltage will fluctuate depending on the alternator load. The jumper is a good idea, the voltage should drop instantly to near-0 with it in place. If it doesn't, the only place the ground can be bad is the lug at the battery. The jumper will eliminate everything else. If it's a bad lug, that's easy enough to fix. If it does drop to 0, then something on the block or tranny isn't making contact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If there is a bad casing ground, the casing voltage will fluctuate depending on the alternator load. The jumper is a good idea, the voltage should drop instantly to near-0 with it in place. If it doesn't, the only place the ground can be bad is the lug at the battery. The jumper will eliminate everything else. If it's a bad lug, that's easy enough to fix. If it does drop to 0, then something on the block or tranny isn't making contact.
[/QUOTEOk, tested my meter leads tonight to make sure that they have zero continuity and they were dead on, put fresh batteries in and I hooked one end of jumper able to the alternator casing and the other engine to an engine ground, and took the positive lead of the meter and hooked it to the negative side of the battery and did these readings. I left all of the hookups the same for all readings. so all of these readings are in reference to the positive lead being on the negative terminal of the battery, to alternator case 5.2 vdc, transmission 4.4v, ecm bracket 1.4 v, power steering pump .63v, top of the strut bolt .2v, brake booster 2.9v radiator >>41.5 v<<, thing that is on the firewall on the passenger side that is square, lol sorry will have to find the name >>>2.9v and to the positive of bat 14 v. Then I unhooked the engine ground to the alternator ground and left positive lead of meter on the negative of the battery and got these readings. alt. case 4.7 v, tranny 4v, ecm bracket 1.5v power steering pump metal >>>107 vdc<<<, strut top bolt 1.1v, brake booster 2.9v radiator >>>139 vdc<<<<, passenger side square thing 2.9v battery positive 13.91. I double checked and triple check the very high voltages and I cannot understand and it is not even believable. I called dealer mid-day and tried to talk to the service manager i dealt with but, i was on hold and then some lady came on and said that the service manager needed to talk to the tech and that they would call me back, but they did not. I just charged $4800 on my credit cards there and now they are seemingly ignoring me. ]
Check this out i cannot even believe it. I just did this......
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If there is a bad casing ground, the casing voltage will fluctuate depending on the alternator load. The jumper is a good idea, the voltage should drop instantly to near-0 with it in place. If it doesn't, the only place the ground can be bad is the lug at the battery. The jumper will eliminate everything else. If it's a bad lug, that's easy enough to fix. If it does drop to 0, then something on the block or tranny isn't making contact.
The terminal is brand new on the battery they charged me 2 or 3 months back $25 for a new terminal
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If there is a bad casing ground, the casing voltage will fluctuate depending on the alternator load. The jumper is a good idea, the voltage should drop instantly to near-0 with it in place. If it doesn't, the only place the ground can be bad is the lug at the battery. The jumper will eliminate everything else. If it's a bad lug, that's easy enough to fix. If it does drop to 0, then something on the block or tranny isn't making contact.
And you know these lugs are hooked to the battery sensor or some contraption there I will have to look again . I will look at daylight
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If there is a bad casing ground, the casing voltage will fluctuate depending on the alternator load. The jumper is a good idea, the voltage should drop instantly to near-0 with it in place. If it doesn't, the only place the ground can be bad is the lug at the battery. The jumper will eliminate everything else. If it's a bad lug, that's easy enough to fix. If it does drop to 0, then something on the block or tranny isn't making contact.
TO heck with the dealer if I can find it I wanna fix it
 

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And you know these lugs are hooked to the battery sensor or some contraption
Yes, the extension on the ground lug is the battery current sensor. Both sides of it need to be tight and clean. We actually see loose ones from the factory once a year or so, and they always cause screwy issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes, the extension on the ground lug is the battery current sensor. Both sides of it need to be tight and clean. We actually see loose ones from the factory once a year or so, and they always cause screwy issues.
IF they were any tighter they would break off. this was the situation also before I hooked up my lights. I will probably disconnect them to continue. But, no is not the battery terminal
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes, the extension on the ground lug is the battery current sensor. Both sides of it need to be tight and clean. We actually see loose ones from the factory once a year or so, and they always cause screwy issues.
Its this right or am I imaging things The tranny connector does not look like it is plugged in all the way I have about ripped my car apart. I called over to dealer about 2 hours ago and talked to them a little bit and they had me on hold waiting for the adviser and then just hung up on me so I am trying to find the problem Can you look at these pics please and see if you see anything out of place
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Yep, that's the tranny connector. It's a twist lock and they seize up, that's why there are plier marks on it. Turn the grey part clockwise, if it won't move down any further then it's seated. They don't go all the way to the base of the black socket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yep, that's the tranny connector. It's a twist lock and they seize up, that's why there are plier marks on it. Turn the grey part clockwise, if it won't move down any further then it's seated. They don't go all the way to the base of the black socket.
oK, THE voltage readings were wrong. I verified on Saturday when the fourth alternator went out. I broke down in front of a mechanic's shop and I asked him to to check with his meter the readings that I had thought I had. I am actually relieved to know it was my meter ,but really bummed that the alternator just put in has gone bad. I talked to them on Saturday morning and told them that their was still a problem and since I just lost the new alternator that if they did not fix it and make sure that it was good before giving it back to me that I would contact Nissan North America. The tow company that they used told me at 9 am on Saturday that they would be to pick up my car in 2 hours. They never showed up and then later that afternoon when i called them she told me that she did not say that but, that now I was number 15 in line when they start to work on Tues, which is tomorrow.. Not real happy but since then I went ahead and replaced the battery under warranty because it failed also, I replaced it back in May. I replaced the negative terminal as well. But, the alternator does not charge the battery.
 

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You also need to put the belt on the right way. Trying to wedge it over the crank balancer on an Altie is a hopeless exercise. Get it onto all the rest of the pulleys including the crank, then slip it over the A/C Compressor pulley last. Much easier that way. It also helps to have a long 14mm box wrench for relieving the tensioner, a socket makes it a complete PITA.
Yeh, it's a real PITA replacing the damn thing. I messed with one for a good long time. Such a very tight space to get my hand into; my hands are just too big for this type of work. Started at the top alternator, trying to keep the back side on the water pump pulley another PITA. Wound it around all the pulleys and while holding it next to the tensioner, used a 14 mm open end with a short pipe into the wrench for leverage to move the tensioner clockwise to it's stop. Checked to make sure belt was in all the grooves of the pulleys, then I started the engine for about two seconds and no more. Rechecked on all the pulleys.
 
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