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ex-Super *********
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1,410 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I would love to get 1 G out of my 99 Sentra, I know its probly very difficult, but I wonder how close I could get with this:

Tein HA coilovers with pillow ball mounts, 448lbs front, 280lbs rear springs(others available)

Front and rear Courtesy Nissan STBs

Front Suspension Techniques sway

Rear Stillen sway

N-tech under-brace

ES bushings for the front

Nismo bushings for the rear( they have poly(?) bushings for just about every rear susp. point)

16"X7.5" Kosie K1 wheels(about 15.5lbs)

204/40/16 Kumho 712's

Full cage(most likly Autopower)

Full interior

Thats all the info I can think of right now. So what do you guys think, how close will I get? Should I step down to 15" wheels and maybe some Gforce K/D tires? How much of a difference would stripping the interior make, like say strip the trunk(buh bye subs hehe), rear seat, flooring, door panels, head liner. Basicly just have the 2 front seats and full dash left. Would it be worth the "Ghettoness" to strip it, or should I just leave it?
 

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Fearsome Fabricator
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213 Posts
Honestly, pulling high g's comes down to surface friction, tire grip and camber angles. I don't think anything else is really going to matter, as long as the car is balanced.

For example, I can pull 1.1g with my 95 B13, but I'm running R-compound tires, -2.3° camber (soon to be -3.3° as it wasn't enough) and running on a concrete airport runway. My spring rates are 156/152, on Tokico blues.

I do not think the 712's are going to pull the g's you want. I run them on the street and they are nice, but not that nice.

Greg "anticipating a multitude of imbecilic flaming" Wellwood
 

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ex-Super *********
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1,410 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Greg

I am having some "issues" when the B14 suspension issue comes up. I dont even know if I want to talk about it right now. LOL

1.1G, thats very impresive, I am glad to see that from a Sentra owners :)

Thanks again
 

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ex-Super *********
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Discussion Starter #5
Your awaiting some flames..HEhe I am the Supreme fire-starter. you havent been flamed until you have posted a mile in my shoes.
 
E

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Guest
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Question

Greg,

Is your B13 the same design as an U.S. B13? Reason why is because I have a U.S. B13 and have had tried adjusting my camber to -2.5 degrees and I could tell that I was losing some contact patch in hard turns. Of course this was with +3 degrees castor and 1/8 toe out in the front. I do know that positive castor does induce more negative camber in turns. Just wondering. I was planning on dropping down to about -1 degree camber from -2 degree (which I run now).

As far as pulling 1G, go to 205 15's with a good set of R-compounds and set the alignment. You may get close.
 

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Registered
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I believe you might be a bit stiff in the front. If you're too stiff on one end you'll lose contact with that end first. In this case I fear you might have too much understeer.

I'd also recommend you get the rear toe set to as close to zero as possible... the car will be hard to rotate otherwise. All the B14 and B15 cars I've heard about have quite a bit of toe-in at the rear.

And as others have mentioned you'll need 'R' compound tires to get close to 1.0 g.

Steve
 

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Icy Hot Stunta
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2,366 Posts
Skinny G said:
Honestly, pulling high g's comes down to surface friction, tire grip and camber angles. I don't think anything else is really going to matter, as long as the car is balanced.

For example, I can pull 1.1g with my 95 B13, but I'm running R-compound tires, -2.3° camber (soon to be -3.3° as it wasn't enough) and running on a concrete airport runway. My spring rates are 156/152, on Tokico blues.

I do not think the 712's are going to pull the g's you want. I run them on the street and they are nice, but not that nice.

Greg "anticipating a multitude of imbecilic flaming" Wellwood
Whats a 95 B13?

I also have a hard time beliving that you can pull those g's with DOT tires R compound or not with the setup you have unless your skidpad is sticky. 1.1 is where you usualy need real slicks and real racing suspension, not street stuff like you have.

You might hit 1.1 instantanious G's in a turn but thats not like pulling 1.1 on the skidpad.
 

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Icy Hot Stunta
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2,366 Posts
Re: Re: How close to 1 G would this set-up get me, any ideas?

autoxer7 said:
I believe you might be a bit stiff in the front. If you're too stiff on one end you'll lose contact with that end first. In this case I fear you might have too much understeer.

I'd also recommend you get the rear toe set to as close to zero as possible... the car will be hard to rotate otherwise. All the B14 and B15 cars I've heard about have quite a bit of toe-in at the rear.

And as others have mentioned you'll need 'R' compound tires to get close to 1.0 g.

Steve
There is almost no such thing as too stuff for our cars due to short travel and poor suspension geometry. For instance, I run 600 in/b front and 500 in/lb rear on my B13 cup car and 600/front 600 rear on my B14 car.

As long as the shocks have the correct damping for the spring rate within reason, you will not lose traction. Remember I said within reason.

Hell even my street killer turbo b13 has 500 front and 400 rear.

The Tien setup has way too soft rear springs. B14's need a stiff spring in the rear to help them rotate.

For racing I much prefer the double adjustablity of the GC Advanced Design shock.

Mike
 

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Icy Hot Stunta
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2,366 Posts
Re: Question

Eric said:
Greg,

Is your B13 the same design as an U.S. B13? Reason why is because I have a U.S. B13 and have had tried adjusting my camber to -2.5 degrees and I could tell that I was losing some contact patch in hard turns. Of course this was with +3 degrees castor and 1/8 toe out in the front. I do know that positive castor does induce more negative camber in turns. Just wondering. I was planning on dropping down to about -1 degree camber from -2 degree (which I run now).

As far as pulling 1G, go to 205 15's with a good set of R-compounds and set the alignment. You may get close.
Your alingment settings should be close to perfect for a stiffer sprung car, I have found that softer sprung cars need even more negative camber, like in the 3 degree range.
 

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Icy Hot Stunta
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2,366 Posts
Re: Re: How close to 1 G would this set-up get me, any ideas?

autoxer7 said:
I believe you might be a bit stiff in the front. If you're too stiff on one end you'll lose contact with that end first. In this case I fear you might have too much understeer.

I'd also recommend you get the rear toe set to as close to zero as possible... the car will be hard to rotate otherwise. All the B14 and B15 cars I've heard about have quite a bit of toe-in at the rear.

And as others have mentioned you'll need 'R' compound tires to get close to 1.0 g.

Steve
Yeah you got to bend the beam axle to get rid of the huge amount of toe-in.

I think the BFG KD's and Azeinises can get close to 1 G being non r compound tires
 

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ex-Super *********
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1,410 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
No longer am I considering the Tein stuff. After hearing the great things said about AD dampers I am gonna save my pennies for those. Since my car is a mostly street driven car, my choice of rates will be around 400F and around 375R( notice I say "around"). It may take a lot of my paychecks to do, but what the hell. If I am gonna do it, I might as well do it right. Here is a Question for those who know. Does the chassis stiffness gained from a 6 pt cage outweigh the weight penalty? Is it even close?
Thanks for all the input people.
 

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ex-Super *********
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1,410 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Updated suspension plans:
AD dampers
~400F ~375R rates
GC caster/camber plates
Stillen rear sway
Progress front sway
Nismo rear bushings
ES front bushings
SHigSpeed lower control arm brace
Already have Courtesy Nissan F&R STBs
16"X7.5" Kosie K1, 205/40/16 street wheels/tires
Did I forget anything?
 

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23 Posts
PatScottAKA99XE said:
Did I forget anything?
At least $3500 in your checking account. The AD struts and GC hardware including CC plates will run around $2500. The wheels/tires will probably be another $1000.
 

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ex-Super *********
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1,410 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Yeah, no kidding. On the plus side, I already have the wheels and tires that are listed. I think it will be worth it, dont you?
 

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Icy Hot Stunta
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2,366 Posts
PatScottAKA99XE said:
No longer am I considering the Tein stuff. After hearing the great things said about AD dampers I am gonna save my pennies for those. Since my car is a mostly street driven car, my choice of rates will be around 400F and around 375R( notice I say "around"). It may take a lot of my paychecks to do, but what the hell. If I am gonna do it, I might as well do it right. Here is a Question for those who know. Does the chassis stiffness gained from a 6 pt cage outweigh the weight penalty? Is it even close?
Thanks for all the input people.
I think a cage really helps if you can live with it for a street car.

Mike
 

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ex-Super *********
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1,410 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I think I can live with it. I do have some questions about the Autopower cages. I have a 4 door, do they make one to fit?
Is there a cross brace behind the front seats for harness attachment and seat-back braces? I am getting ahead of myself, gotta get the suspension first :)
 
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