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nissan??? whats that
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hit a curb at 50mph and im not sure whats wrong

so my girl and i were traveling along the intersatate at roughly 60-65 in my car when all of the sudden i need to get off on an exit i hit the ramp doing about 50-60 and its SL is 25 i break alot bu it isnt helping and my tires could grrip nolonger so we screached into a 6in curb at about 30-50mph on the drivers side. my car runs well still and everything is ok except for the steering wheel....when the passenger wheel is strait the driver wheel is turned to the outside a few degrees. and when my steeringwheel is alligned(strait/normal) i glide left but when i turn the wheel a tad right i can drive strait but with a little bit of pull to the left. my first thought was allignment but idk any one have a clue?
excuse the shitty typing....i partied all nihgt last night
 

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slow200 said:
so my girl and i were traveling along the intersatate at roughly 60-65 in my car when all of the sudden i need to get off on an exit i hit the ramp doing about 50-60 and its SL is 25 i break alot bu it isnt helping and my tires could grrip nolonger so we screached into a 6in curb at about 30-50mph on the drivers side. my car runs well still and everything is ok except for the steering wheel....when the passenger wheel is strait the driver wheel is turned to the outside a few degrees. and when my steeringwheel is alligned(strait/normal) i glide left but when i turn the wheel a tad right i can drive strait but with a little bit of pull to the left. my first thought was allignment but idk any one have a clue?
excuse the shitty typing....i partied all nihgt last night
Fuck man, it sounds like a tie rod, and possibly a controll arm. The weak point is the rear suspension (things bend there pretty easily). Take it to an alignment shop before you compleetly shred your tires. They will tell you what is wrong, but do not let them fix it. Only do an alignment there, do not let them replace parts for you. Hey, at least the body is good.
 

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nissan??? whats that
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Discussion Starter #3
Marc Z31 said:
Fuck man, it sounds like a tie rod, and possibly a controll arm. The weak point is the rear suspension (things bend there pretty easily). Take it to an alignment shop before you compleetly shred your tires. They will tell you what is wrong, but do not let them fix it. Only do an alignment there, do not let them replace parts for you. Hey, at least the body is good.
how much am i looking at paying for tie rod or control arm

my rear is prolly ok cause when i hit the curb the car bounced bak into the lane and kept going
 

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Nitrous Junkie
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my wheel was in my fender ( cheap tires + rain = hydro plane ) i needed a new control arm, sway bar endlink, strut, lower controll arm and a new axel. i got all my parts at a junk yard except for the endlink and i came out to like $80 curbs suck
 

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hopefully it's just the tie rod. i broke mine and had sort of the same thing only it was pulling both ways but it was also snowy so that could have caused the both ways pulling. Since i'm in AK and it's expensive to ship parts and what not i paid 400$ to get a damn tie rod installed. I suggest getting it checked and if you can do it your self do it, if not get ready to shell out some cash. hopefully it's just an alignment and that's like 40-70 depending on who you know.
 

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nissan??? whats that
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280 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Freakin' Rican said:
hopefully it's just the tie rod. i broke mine and had sort of the same thing only it was pulling both ways but it was also snowy so that could have caused the both ways pulling. Since i'm in AK and it's expensive to ship parts and what not i paid 400$ to get a damn tie rod installed. I suggest getting it checked and if you can do it your self do it, if not get ready to shell out some cash. hopefully it's just an alignment and that's like 40-70 depending on who you know.
lol hopefully? i hope its just the control arm but wtf is a tie rod and how hard is this install..my neighbor is a mechanic for the army so no problem on the install but i dont trust my self...i usually tend to do more bad than good but allign ment down the street is 49.99 mabye they do installs for cheep :thumbup:
 

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i smell that whore
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i have hit a curb 3 times in my car, everytime it happens i have the same symptoms as your car, i'm gonna go with lower control arm. not hard to replace (especially after the first or second one), if it's bent, it will throw off your caster, and the only way to fix it is new control arm.
 

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nissan??? whats that
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Discussion Starter #9
jeffinbham said:
i have hit a curb 3 times in my car, everytime it happens i have the same symptoms as your car, i'm gonna go with lower control arm. not hard to replace (especially after the first or second one), if it's bent, it will throw off your caster, and the only way to fix it is new control arm.
wtf is a caster...im a noob at this stuff if u cant already tell
 

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i smell that whore
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caster is one of the measurement (i guess) of the wheel on an alignment. like, camber is how the wheel leans in or out, tow, or toe, idk, is the angle of the wheel, kinda like this would be normal tow (roughly) ||, this would be what your's looks like im guessing: \|. and caster is how far to the front or rear the wheel sits in the wheel well. i'm not an expert, but i think that your lower control arm is prob the issue. hope this helps - jeff :cheers: :cheers:
 

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2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
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slow200 said:
wtf is a caster...im a noob at this stuff if u cant already tell
Ok. All good comments, so to summarize
Get an alignment as soon as possible to save your tires.
They will align out the damage if they can.
If they cant they can tell you what to replace and/or give you an estimate to do the work.
You get the parts replaced or do it your self with your kind neighbor.
You then go back and get it re-aligned, so ask before you pay for the first alignment the policy for re-aligns.
For instance Sears is upto 3 or 6 months and 3,000 or 6,000 miles at no charge. Not sure but you see what I mean.
Good Luck....
 

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Spidey One
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IanH said:
Ok. All good comments, so to summarize
Get an alignment as soon as possible to save your tires.
They will align out the damage if they can.
If they cant they can tell you what to replace and/or give you an estimate to do the work.
You get the parts replaced or do it your self with your kind neighbor.
You then go back and get it re-aligned, so ask before you pay for the first alignment the policy for re-aligns.
For instance Sears is upto 3 or 6 months and 3,000 or 6,000 miles at no charge. Not sure but you see what I mean.
Good Luck....
LOL...summary is always good. I had to dish out $500 beans for my ride the other day. I went for a routine balance and alignment and found out that I needed two new front tires, inner tire rods and outer tire rods plus the balancing and alignment!!! Yeah it sucked big time, especially when I went with the mentallity to spend for the balance and alignment...HAPPY FREAKIN' NEW YEAR TO ME!!!
 

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i smell that whore
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230 Posts
ebricenojr said:
LOL...summary is always good. I had to dish out $500 beans for my ride the other day. I went for a routine balance and alignment and found out that I needed two new front tires, inner tire rods and outer tire rods plus the balancing and alignment!!! Yeah it sucked big time, especially when I went with the mentallity to spend for the balance and alignment...HAPPY FREAKIN' NEW YEAR TO ME!!!
i think you may have been scammed. it always seems suspicious when they tell you that you need all that stuff. how did you not know you needed new tires? what is and outer tie rod? never heard of it. i thought there was just left and right tie rods. idk.
 

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i smell that whore
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you should find a new shop, seems like they are taking advantage of you.
 
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