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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As you can see,I just came back from Florida,walk in the house and see 3 boxes of fedex on the floor,I quickly open them up and take some pics. :fluffy:
Well most of them was here,except the reverse y pipe and the greddy type S boost controller. :thumbup:
Here's the pics enjoy. :)












 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I sure will call you when I install it Steve,and yeah that intercooler is pretty big too. :thumbup:

You think everyone is working in their garage?J/K Matt,you know how busy I was before,I order this thing back in late oct,and I don't have the $$$ for it in FULL,so Nigel let me paid him 1K to hold the deal and pay him the rest in dec,plus his been out of the country and just came back,that's why I didn't get it until NOW. :thumbup:

Hey nacho,don't worry this time,I'm also BOOST and prolly need to run low boost to get him this time,if everything work perfectly. :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
JNCoRacer said:
That looks like the PFI kit. Have fun installing it. It can be done in about 2 days. I thought the hardest part was trimmimng the bumper (metal) for the IC and tapping into the valve cover for the oil return. You will have a blast with it when its all completed.
Yeah that's the PFI kit,I'll take my time when I install,thanx! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
seximagtr said:
also - those exhaust clamps are POS. We tightened it down as hard as possible - and yet, the piping came lose and drug down the freeway. I highly suggest you get them welded on - you'll thank me later. Make sure you clock the turbo correctly - or it'll leak from oil not draining properly. Be super careful when you drill the hole and tap the valve cover for the oil return nipple - clearances are very tight - i mean you have about 1mm each way before you fuck up so measure, and measure again.

Call me if you need any help.... That install wasn't hard - but definately had many, o shit we gotta go to home depot/ auto zone a million times.
For real,but if you weld it together,won't it make it impossible to remove the system later or is it possible unless you saw it off?Well my turbo came pre clocked according to Nigel,cause I asked him to,is that why your turbo leak oil from clocking it?Damn I sure wish the kit come with a template or something for the drain return nipple.May I ask why you have to run to home depot/ auto zone a million times,cause I thought the kit come with every thing???Well I sure will paid more attention when I drill the valve cover.Thanx alots for the info. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
seximagtr said:
well the clocking depends on where you are draining the oil to. You need to clock differently depending on if you tap the valve cover - or if you tap the upper oil pan(recommended). The kit comes with everything supposedly - but there were fittings and small things that I had to get locally. Also... if you want - i can drill a valve cover off of one of my spare motors here and send it to ya if you'll ship me some cash and the fitting... unless you wanna tap the oil pan - in which case - theres plenty of spots to tap to.
seximagtr,according to the pics in the kit,I got to drill one hole on the upper oil pan(feed hole)already,why don't they just put in the instruction to tap TWO holes in the upper oil pan together,instead of one on the upper oil pan and one on the valve cover for the return?????? :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
seximagtr said:
well the clocking depends on where you are draining the oil to. You need to clock differently depending on if you tap the valve cover - or if you tap the upper oil pan(recommended). The kit comes with everything supposedly - but there were fittings and small things that I had to get locally. Also... if you want - i can drill a valve cover off of one of my spare motors here and send it to ya if you'll ship me some cash and the fitting... unless you wanna tap the oil pan - in which case - theres plenty of spots to tap to.
seximagtr,according to the pics in the kit,I got to drill one hole on the upper oil pan(feed hole)already,why don't they just put in the instruction to tap TWO holes in the upper oil pan together,instead of one on the upper oil pan and one on the valve cover for the return?????? :rolleyes:
Well I got an extra motor laying around,I'll try to tap it my self first and see,if I can't get it done then I'll give youo a call. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
seximagtr said:
Also as far as welding - weld the pipes that will have more strain on them - like the turbo exhaust dump piping mainly. If you jack the car up you shouldnt have a problem removing piping even after they are welded.
Thanx I'll try to see if I can weld that together then. :)
BTW seximagtr,do you mind to share what's your setup was. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
turbo-maxima said:
frank ya you should tap the upper oil pan if you can and not the valve cover. Also see if you can get the exhuast welded together or like matt said get some exhaust flanges welded on there.

Hey Frank did you get the mandral bent or non-mandrla bent reverse y-pipe?
Well I think Nigel said their kit now only come with mandlal bend.But I'm not sure yet cause I still didn't get it yet. :rolleyes:

Well thanx Matt,I sure will if I plan to well the flange on. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
seximagtr said:
You have an option of either oil pan or valve cover for return - not both... you only have one oil return... unless you just like to leave a trail of oil for ppl to follow :)

All the new piping from PFI is mandrel bent.

My setup i.e. the following

You're same turbo setup i.e. ball bearing 60 trim T4/T04E
Blitz SBCID - 16 psi currently working some issues out with my busted wastegate
Tial Wastegate
HKS SSQV
Emanage/ Injector/ Ignition/ Software uplink harness
Innovate Motorsports Wideband O2 w/ datalogging
HKS Type 1 Turbo timer

Boost, EGT, fuel press gauges
Nismo 555cc injectors
AEM FPR
Cartech FMU
Walbro 255lph hi flo pump
Mobil 1
ACT Stage II clutch
Pacesetter STS
Warpspeed full mandrel 3 inch piping turboback (i.e. no cat)
Magnaflow Street Series 3 inch muffler

Guees that's about it?
Wow,pretty nice list.
So is the blitz your boost controller?
What size waste gate(XXmm)?
Do you have a pic of your Innovate Motorsports Wideband O2 w/ datalogging?
So your ws exhaust connected from the down pipe to the magnaflow?
How do you like the sound,do you have an audio click of the sound?
Sorry if I asking to many question.Thanx! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
seximagtr said:
yes the blitz is the boost controller - it's never slipped at all - one of the best units ive ever seen in action. No pics of the innovate. Yes that's how the exhaust is hooked up..... but it's f'ing loud..... no prob answering the questions :)
What do you mean never slipped?
What mm does your tial waste gauge come with the kit?Mine's 38mm.
What's your A/R,69 or 81?Thanx! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
turbo-maxima said:
16 psi should get him into the 11's for sure with slicks.
16 psi are for race car,mine's only a grocery hauler,with full trim interior and A/C,LOL.So I won't see 16 unless I go crazy and hunger for boost,but I can settle at 14psi on drag or something grippy then this crappy nitto450 I have. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
nacho_nissan said:
11's!? holy shit! so when do you start giving test rides..? :)
Naw I'm not aiming that high just yet(11's),but into maybe 12.5 or some where.Sure when ever I got it all hook up and fine tune it,I'll let you take a ride in this grocery hauler. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
JNCoRacer said:
PFI kit = Stupid fast power.
I hope you've upgraded your brakes.
LOL at the ( PFI kit = Stupid fast power.)
Well I already have the Stillen xdrill and SS line for now.

And maybe need some BBK from Matt later also,LOL! :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Matt93SE said:
I'm sure he's referring to boost creep or other nasty issues like that.
aftermarket controllers have a tendency not to hold the set boost level sometimes. that can be bad when you're near the limits of the engine...
"Oops.. I just went 2psi over... *POW*"
OK I see.Do you think my Greddy type S's any good? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
DNE said:
Sometimes boost controllers can't control the boost very well and say you have it to 10 psi, boost may creep on up past 15 psi.... Mainly manual boost controllers have this problem - the greddy unit is nice though.

38mm tial WG

.81 A/R = retarded top end
Yeah I know the 81 a/r are insane,but given the same mods and psi boost,I bet I'll pull away first and he'll come back later,LOL! :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
DNE said:
I hate it

It's got a shitty diaphgragm so it leaks boost sometimes.... and the sound can get annoying after a while...... PEWWWWWWWWWWWWW



- Joffe
So you have try the geddy profec type S,damn I thought Nigel said it's a good unit and it'll hold boost up to 30> psi. :rolleyes:
 
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