[seximagtr]

That looks like the PFI kit. Have fun installing it. It can be done in about 2 days. I thought the hardest part was trimmimng the bumper (metal) for the IC and tapping into the valve cover for the oil return. You will have a blast with it when its all completed.

also - those exhaust clamps are POS. We tightened it down as hard as possible - and yet, the piping came lose and drug down the freeway. I highly suggest you get them welded on - you'll thank me later. Make sure you clock the turbo correctly - or it'll leak from oil not draining properly. Be super careful when you drill the hole and tap the valve cover for the oil return nipple - clearances are very tight - i mean you have about 1mm each way before you fuck up so measure, and measure again.

Call me if you need any help.... That install wasn't hard - but definately had many, o shit we gotta go to home depot/ auto zone a million times.

 

[seximagtr]

For real,but if you weld it together,won't it make it impossible to remove the system later or is it possible unless you saw it off?Well my turbo came pre clocked according to Nigel,cause I asked him to,is that why your turbo leak oil from clocking it?Damn I sure wish the kit come with a template or something for the drain return nipple.May I ask why you have to run to home depot/ auto zone a million times,cause I thought the kit come with every thing???Well I sure will paid more attention when I drill the valve cover.Thanx alots for the info. :thumbup:

well the clocking depends on where you are draining the oil to. You need to clock differently depending on if you tap the valve cover - or if you tap the upper oil pan(recommended). The kit comes with everything supposedly - but there were fittings and small things that I had to get locally. Also... if you want - i can drill a valve cover off of one of my spare motors here and send it to ya if you'll ship me some cash and the fitting... unless you wanna tap the oil pan - in which case - theres plenty of spots to tap to.

 

[seximagtr]

For real,but if you weld it together,won't it make it impossible to remove the system later or is it possible unless you saw it off?Well my turbo came pre clocked according to Nigel,cause I asked him to,is that why your turbo leak oil from clocking it?Damn I sure wish the kit come with a template or something for the drain return nipple.May I ask why you have to run to home depot/ auto zone a million times,cause I thought the kit come with every thing???Well I sure will paid more attention when I drill the valve cover.Thanx alots for the info. :thumbup:

Also as far as welding - weld the pipes that will have more strain on them - like the turbo exhaust dump piping mainly. If you jack the car up you shouldnt have a problem removing piping even after they are welded.

 

[seximagtr]

seximagtr,according to the pics in the kit,I got to drill one hole on the upper oil pan(feed hole)already,why don't they just put in the instruction to tap TWO holes in the upper oil pan together,instead of one on the upper oil pan and one on the valve cover for the return??????
Well I got an extra motor laying around,I'll try to tap it my self first and see,if I can't get it done then I'll give youo a call. :thumbup:

You have an option of either oil pan or valve cover for return - not both... you only have one oil return... unless you just like to leave a trail of oil for ppl to follow

All the new piping from PFI is mandrel bent.

My setup i.e. the following

You're same turbo setup i.e. ball bearing 60 trim T4/T04E
Blitz SBCID - 16 psi currently working some issues out with my busted wastegate
Tial Wastegate
HKS SSQV
Emanage/ Injector/ Ignition/ Software uplink harness
Innovate Motorsports Wideband O2 w/ datalogging
HKS Type 1 Turbo timer

Boost, EGT, fuel press gauges
Nismo 555cc injectors
AEM FPR
Cartech FMU
Walbro 255lph hi flo pump
Mobil 1
ACT Stage II clutch
Pacesetter STS
Warpspeed full mandrel 3 inch piping turboback (i.e. no cat)
Magnaflow Street Series 3 inch muffler

Guees that's about it?

 

[seximagtr]

Sweet. You live in Houston???

nope. D-town baby

 

[seximagtr]

Yeah... all the slow cars are in Dallas.

yeah i know right... stupid "4DSC" who do they think they are anyway :fluffy:

 

[seximagtr]

have you dynoed? At 16 psi???

no i sure didnt... felt just a TAD faster than 11 though .... im not disclosing numbers - but at 11 lbs, i pushed 400+....

Rigth now - my wastegate is fubared - so as soon as i get that taken care of - i'll be good to go, i cant even set anything more than 10psi right now... friggin annoying.

 

[seximagtr]

so what would frank run in a 1/4 mile? please run faster than a 13.8...

im assuming frank = 96vq...


Traction is the biggest problem here... without slicks - 12's are where he's probably gonna get stuck... with slicks.... tuned @ say 16 psi.... I think mid to low 11's are doable...now if you spray to get that turbo spooling a little quicker... or do two step... " You got a 10 sec car!"

 

[seximagtr]

Wow,pretty nice list.
So is the blitz your boost controller?
What size waste gate(XXmm)?
Do you have a pic of your Innovate Motorsports Wideband O2 w/ datalogging?
So your ws exhaust connected from the down pipe to the magnaflow?
How do you like the sound,do you have an audio click of the sound?
Sorry if I asking to many question.Thanx!

yes the blitz is the boost controller - it's never slipped at all - one of the best units ive ever seen in action. No pics of the innovate. Yes that's how the exhaust is hooked up..... but it's f'ing loud..... no prob answering the questions

 

[seximagtr]

So you have try the geddy profec type S,damn I thought Nigel said it's a good unit and it'll hold boost up to 30> psi.

when you said greddy type s i thought you meant the BOV... the type S boost controller is definately a good unit.