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Discussion Starter #1
OK my SR started and I drove it down the road(about 200 meters) and it did not want to go up the rpms very smooth. Also when it came back into the garage. It smelled like burnt pancakes. And also had oil coming out of my HKS blow off valve. Whats going on?

Thanks
 

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KA24DET
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Oil pan

ckykm said:
Oh and it kept stalling alot
Check the oil lines that go to the turbo. People often have trouble with oil pans that were dented during engine/clip transit, if you haven't already repaired yours. If you have an oil leak, you should be able to trace it to a source, most likely an oil line or gasket line (like the oil pan gasket line). The lag in engine RPM was likely due to lack of oil pressure, or lack of turbo lubrication. Whatever you do, DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE until you find the leak and repair it, you're risking serious damage to the turbo or the engine itself if you dump out all of your oil. Find the source of the leak, then post again. Good luck, poor man.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
bridrive55 said:
Check the oil lines that go to the turbo. People often have trouble with oil pans that were dented during engine/clip transit, if you haven't already repaired yours. If you have an oil leak, you should be able to trace it to a source, most likely an oil line or gasket line (like the oil pan gasket line). The lag in engine RPM was likely due to lack of oil pressure, or lack of turbo lubrication. Whatever you do, DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE until you find the leak and repair it, you're risking serious damage to the turbo or the engine itself if you dump out all of your oil. Find the source of the leak, then post again. Good luck, poor man.

Dont know if it would help but i replaced the oil pan with the larger Greddy version. I did have a little too much oil in there to begin with. But we took some out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Joel said:
also check for intercooler system leaks (loose clamps, hoses disconnected)
thanks..do you know if there is a common area that would be leaking or is it different for each engine?
 

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Pivot 180
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Ok, if the piping is stock these are the main places:
-Rubber 90 deg elbow that comes off the compressor housing of the turbo.
-Rubber elbow that goes from the metal hot pipe to the metal elbow that leads to the intercooler
-Rubber hose that joins the metal elbow to the intercooler
-The factory Recirc valve that sits on the intercooler (if the vacuum line is disconnected it will leak really badly)
-The rubber pipe that joins the intercooler to the plastic cold pipe
-The rubber adapter that joins the plastic cold pipe to the throttle body
-The rubber pipe that joins the plastic cold pipe to the IAC valve in the manifold
-The rubber pipe that goes from the recirc valve to the intake pipe just after the air flow meter
-The rubber pipe that joins the intake pipe to the the EGR system

I think thats all of them :)

Undo each clamp and check the hose clamp for damage. If its bent in any way replace it - they are cheap anyway. Also clean the metal and plastic pipes off with a wax and grease remover (prepsol) to stop the rubber slipping off under boost.

There are also a number of 8mm and 12mm vacuum lines. These go from the intake manifold to the carbon canister, the factory boost control, fuel pressure regulator and recirc valve. There is also one that goes from the cold pipe to the wastegate system. These should be checked for splits and damage too.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Joel said:
Ok, if the piping is stock these are the main places:
-Rubber 90 deg elbow that comes off the compressor housing of the turbo.
-Rubber elbow that goes from the metal hot pipe to the metal elbow that leads to the intercooler
-Rubber hose that joins the metal elbow to the intercooler
-The factory Recirc valve that sits on the intercooler (if the vacuum line is disconnected it will leak really badly)
-The rubber pipe that joins the intercooler to the plastic cold pipe
-The rubber adapter that joins the plastic cold pipe to the throttle body
-The rubber pipe that joins the plastic cold pipe to the IAC valve in the manifold
-The rubber pipe that goes from the recirc valve to the intake pipe just after the air flow meter
-The rubber pipe that joins the intake pipe to the the EGR system

I think thats all of them :)

Undo each clamp and check the hose clamp for damage. If its bent in any way replace it - they are cheap anyway. Also clean the metal and plastic pipes off with a wax and grease remover (prepsol) to stop the rubber slipping off under boost.

There are also a number of 8mm and 12mm vacuum lines. These go from the intake manifold to the carbon canister, the factory boost control, fuel pressure regulator and recirc valve. There is also one that goes from the cold pipe to the wastegate system. These should be checked for splits and damage too.
so I need lines going to the canister?(even if i dont use it?) cuz i dont have any going there...I have one going to the fuel pressure regulator...one to the BOV and one that goes to the Igniter chip that T's off to plug into the two lines that originate from the igniter chip. Is that correct? So there is a factory boost controller on the SR which i swapped? where is it? and what does it look like...I am running the FMIC Greddy...so no recirc valve...
Sorry I am just confused...a picture or diagram would help..but if not its cool. I am not running the stock side mount intercooler pipes. and i also have a hose running from the wastegate to the hot pipe nipple.
 

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Pivot 180
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ckykm said:
so I need lines going to the canister?(even if i dont use it?) cuz i dont have any going there...I have one going to the fuel pressure regulator...one to the BOV and one that goes to the Igniter chip that T's off to plug into the two lines that originate from the igniter chip. Is that correct? So there is a factory boost controller on the SR which i swapped? where is it? and what does it look like...I am running the FMIC Greddy...so no recirc valve...
Sorry I am just confused...a picture or diagram would help..but if not its cool. I am not running the stock side mount intercooler pipes. and i also have a hose running from the wastegate to the hot pipe nipple.
You dont need the canister as long as you block the vacuum lines off.

The igniter chip you talk about is actually the factory boost control. You can remove this completely if you want to run with factory wastegate controlled boost only (7psi)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Joel said:
You dont need the canister as long as you block the vacuum lines off.

The igniter chip you talk about is actually the factory boost control. You can remove this completely if you want to run with factory wastegate controlled boost only (7psi)
ok...I have the bottom vacuum line(under the throttle body) going to the boost controller(i plan on upping the boost) and then it t's off to connect to the two lines that come from the factory boost controller. Is that correct? Then the top two lines go to the BOV and fuel pressure regulator...so I guess thats all correct...and thus having the lines to the canister not even beginning to go there.

Sorry I just want to be 100% correct
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Joel said:
You dont need the canister as long as you block the vacuum lines off.

The igniter chip you talk about is actually the factory boost control. You can remove this completely if you want to run with factory wastegate controlled boost only (7psi)
oh and for curiosity(if you are runnin a FMIC and no canister and if your running factory boost controller) how are your lines set up?
 

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Pivot 180
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I took out the factory boost controller. I have one vacuum line that goes to the BOV, two that go to the canister and one to the FPR which my boost gauge is also T'd into.

The wastegate signal comes from the hot or cold pipe (stock its cold pipe). Mine goes from the hot pipe to a simple inline bleed valve and then straight into the wastegate actuator. I dont think the wastegate line should come from behind the throttle body - that may be where your problem is.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Joel said:
I took out the factory boost controller. I have one vacuum line that goes to the BOV, two that go to the canister and one to the FPR which my boost gauge is also T'd into.

The wastegate signal comes from the hot or cold pipe (stock its cold pipe). Mine goes from the hot pipe to a simple inline bleed valve and then straight into the wastegate actuator. I dont think the wastegate line should come from behind the throttle body - that may be where your problem is.
Sorry I meant to say that the line from the hot pipe goes directly to the wastegate located on the Turbo...the line that I said was "behind"...i meant to say under the throttle body where the intercooler pipe connects. The line starts from under that and then runs to the stock boost pressure regulator which t's off into the two lines that come from the regulator...MY car should be running right correct? I mean if not the vacuum lines...what else could be the problem
 

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Pivot 180
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narrow the problem down by simplifying the system. Unless the stock boost control is connected to the wastegate it (the boost controller) will be running open and possibly letting air into the system. Block off the line that goes to the factory boost control (the thing on the drivers side with the fluro green plastic cover and what looks like a black plastic spinnable knob) and run a simple vacuum line from the hot pipe nipple straight to the wastegate.

Any chance of a photo of your setup? Text is so limiting.

If its not something simple like a boost leak, dirty or broken AFM, CAS or coilpacks, get it checked out by a mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Joel said:
narrow the problem down by simplifying the system. Unless the stock boost control is connected to the wastegate it (the boost controller) will be running open and possibly letting air into the system. Block off the line that goes to the factory boost control (the thing on the drivers side with the fluro green plastic cover and what looks like a black plastic spinnable knob) and run a simple vacuum line from the hot pipe nipple straight to the wastegate.

Any chance of a photo of your setup? Text is so limiting.

If its not something simple like a boost leak, dirty or broken AFM, CAS or coilpacks, get it checked out by a mechanic.
the boost controller is not connected to the wastegate...and there is nothing going to or from the Green box. I will post pictures soon...just have to take them
 

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it looks like it should run like that. the factory bc is hooked up wrong but that wouldn't cause the problem your having. check the actual bov it might need to be adjusted. the oil you are talking about could be from having to much oil and it is coming out of the crank case breather (line from the valve cover to the intake tube)and in to the intake.also check the timing.
 
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