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Work With What You Got
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Everyone, I hope someone can answer my question.

I just got a JWT Pop, and i installed it and everthing works perfectly. My problem is the Intake Air Sensor. I know that if i leave it hanging securely near the fliter it will be ok, but i just wanna know if anyone has made their own type of mount for it ( like an actual mount , like on CAI's ) Im just paranoid that if something happens to it , it might throw a check engine light.

Pics would be really helpful, thanks in advance.
 

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Work With What You Got
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Discussion Starter #3
yeah, if its the one thats inside the airbox
 
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When I first got my car I didn't have an air temp sensor
but I have an aftermarket intake
I tried letting it hang to but figured I spent $70 on it I might as well mount it somehow so it gets an acurate reading
So I drilled a hole on the intake tube itself and mounted it there and it works fine
Pics if it are on my sig
 

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Work With What You Got
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Discussion Starter #5
the intake in your pics is different from mine. i guess its either you have an older jwt/stillen pop or its a completely different one, because mine doesnt have an adapter/velocity stack that big.
 

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Work With What You Got
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Discussion Starter #7

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Tein sticker adds 20hp!
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So, this post is old...

But, I installed a Tenzo air filter and took out the air box bottom tray. I noticed the sensor plug in there and took that out as well so it's just hanging there. The actual sensor is still in the airbox and I notice a check engine light while I'm running. But, I plugged in the sensor and let it just hang there with the bottom tray to see if the Check Engine light would go away and it didn't. So, I'm not sure what's making the check engine light come on. Anyone have any ideas? Can I cut or pull the sensor out or off the old airbox to make the check engine light go away?

Thanks
 

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Tein sticker adds 20hp!
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Thanks guys, I did some more searching on here and put the sensor back on. What I found was that the light would go away after a week or so, that maybe leaving the battery unplugged overnight would clear it, or that Autozone or someone could clear it for me.

Thanks for the replies. :)
 

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Tein sticker adds 20hp!
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Ok, I noticed a new problem today with the Sensor.

It's plugged in and there doesn't seem to be any loose wires or anything.

But, on my cluster, my Temp gauge was always stuck at half way since I installed my indiglo things. Today, I decided to fix the gauge, so I did and added more double sided tape to help hold down the faces so that the needle would be more free.

Well, after driving it around a while, the Temp needle stays at zero... will resetting the ECU fix this problem? I read that the Check Engine light will go after a while if it's working correctly... but the the sensor apparently isn't giving a reading.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Tein sticker adds 20hp!
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Ok, got the ECU cleared and everything is fine on that end now, but my Temp gauge on the cluster still isn't going anywhere. I'll pull out the cluster to see if there's a problem with the faces not laying flat or something.

Edit: Yeah, that was it... the needle was stuck... works great now. :)
 

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Industrial Design Lackey
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782 Posts
hey omega

i have that lil air sensor thing too, what i did was i loosened the hose clamp holding the filter onto the aluminum stack thing...stuck the air temp in there, and tightened clamp again. put my hand behind it and it didn't have NE air leaking i think. seems to work fine. my check engine light is on but i dont think its b/c of this...i HOPE not anyways...i had it in there for a while and the light never came on so i assume i must've hit a big bump to trigger it or something *shrug*.
 

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Tein sticker adds 20hp!
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Getting it cleared would probably be ok... if you follow the link above it explains how to reset the ecu, how to get to it, and how to read it. Using one of the tools that plugs into the connector on the drivers side is a lot easier to do... the machines to do that cost $150 or a mechanic will charge you 50-100 dollars to do it, so I'm thinking about buying one sometime, just to read the ecu when I need it and clear it out.
 

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265k miles and counting..
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Just one thing to add: The IAT sensor doesn't have anything to do with the temp gauge.All it does is tell the ECU what temp the intake air is so it can adjust timing and fuel to match.The temp gauge is controlled from the coolant temperature sensor which screws into the waterjacket of the block or the head.
 

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Dynamitega said:
Thanks guys, I did some more searching on here and put the sensor back on. What I found was that the light would go away after a week or so, that maybe leaving the battery unplugged overnight would clear it, or that Autozone or someone could clear it for me.
all u have to do is get a haynes manual and solve all ur problems...tells u how to read and reset codes...helps a whole lot...
 

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Tein sticker adds 20hp!
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Or just read the link that was provided above... it tells you how, but I'd rather not have to go through all that trouble to get back into where the ECU is and then put it all back together again each time it throws a CEL.
 

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Air intake temp sensor

I originally had mine stuck between the ribs on the cone air filter, but have since removed the sensor. I bought that "Ebay special" 99 cents for that "20HP MOD!!". It was not 20 HP as I suspected, but it is a capacitor that bridges the connection when you unplug your sensor. I wrapped the plug in electrical tape after installing the capacitor and taped it to the original clip on the intake tube above the MAF sensor.

Basically it works like this... The sensor, depending on intake temp, changes resistance (ohms). With the air temp at 68 degrees the sensor sends 2.1 - 2.9k ohms to the ECU. At 176 degrees, the resistance is .27 - .38k ohms. The capacitor sends a constant 3k ohm signal so the ECU adjusts the air/fuel mixture for a the intake air being steady 50 degrees. This produces a richer mixture and more power. I would recommend using a capacitor that would set your intake temp around 100 degrees unless you have a heat shield around your filter or a cold air intake.

I noticed a boost in power right away, and have had it like this for a good 20,000 miles with absolutely no problems or trouble codes. With the mods I've done (intake, exhaust, suspension, 'creative' tuning of the timing and idle mixture screw (which raises and lowers the power curve in the RPM range) and a bunch of suspension work), my car is considerably quicker than stock, extremely reliable, and when driven sensibly (RARE!!) it gets an average 40 MPG!! I usually hit the canyons (ludicris speed 6000 RPM+) daily and get into many stoplight and freeway sprints with all the Hondas and BMWs around here (90% I'll win too). I still get between 32 and 35 MPG!! I have put 65,000 hard driven miles on her and other than routine maintenance, replaced only a small hose going from the power steering pump to the resevior. Which was a failed clamps fault, not the hose.

So far, everyone I have shown off the car to has been either extremely impressed or were scared to death and will never sit in my passenger seat again!! I used to race the old 1st generation RX7's and other than the thrill of drifting, I am much happier with my 1996 200SX SE.

I hope my ramblings have helped!!

Keith "Canyoncruzin" Foster
1996 Nissan 200SX SE
128,000 miles
Partial list of work done:
Shielded cone intake, Magnaflow cat back, all the best NGK parts and synthetic fluids, AGXs, Eibach Proline springs, Stillen sway bar kit, Stillen strut tower bars, Potenza re950 tires, a handfull of cosmetic mods and hours of fine tuning.

SEE YOU ON MULHULLAND HWY!!
 
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