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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Car starts and fast idles fine when cold. The idle drops down normally when the car warms up. Suddenly it jumps back to fast idle around 1500RPM and won't take light throttle- it sputters. It seems to come and go even when warm. If it stalls, or I shut it off it wont start again - just cranks and cranks like it's flooded. When it sits for a while and is cold it startrs right up.

I have completely diassembled and cleaned the fast idle control and the aux air valve with no improvement. I am looking into the EGR valve or possible air leak at the intake/tb.

When the problem is not present the car runs fine.

Anybody have any suggestions?
 

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to test the egr, have the car running and press on the diaphragm located "under" the egr..see if the car bogs.
 

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Maybe a baldy grounded MAF? I know my car does this on rare occasion, noetheless one warm(er) day ill look into this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Forgot to include that when the issue is present- if I unplug the MAF sensor, the car dies instantly.

10 Ohms at the AAV.
If I push up on the EGR diaph the car bogs.

Anybody else have any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
91sentra said:
Do a tune up, replace plugs and check them for unusual signs. replace fuel filter and check your idle screw on the ECU, probably not whats wrong but its worth a shot................good luck. Write back with anything else.

Plugs are new, wires and cap/rotor are new. Fuel filter has less than 10K on it. Runs ok at high RPM but at light throttle off idle or when torque cvtr is locked, it sputters extremely badly. When at idle it will likely stall- only when warm. I am going to check the gasket between the TB and intake. I heard a skight air suction noise last night - years ago I removed it to clean it and the gasket was not replaced - I have noticed some buildup underneath and wonder if it's leaking. Will let you know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
UPDATE

EGR is fine. MAF sensor is clean.

But I think I have found where the issue is.

According to the shop manual the Idle Air Control Valve (under the intake, not the ones at the end of the intake) should have battery voltage with key on, and have resistance of 70-80 Ohms across the terminal. Well, it's got 71 Ohms which is within spec, but I could NOT get ANY voltage from the connector with the key on. So I suspect ther may be an issue here and I will investigate this tomorrow.

Again, this valve is located UNDER the upper runners of the intake. It's not the IAA unit. Very hidden.

I noticed if the cooling fan comes on, the car idles perfect and won't stall. Strange but I will get it.
 
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