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ex-Super *********
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So you were safe, the the parts on the car were not, do you understand how many things can go wrong when you let a coil spring go? Guess not.
 

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Please Shift Here
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man, If you're going to flame me for doing it the only thing I could, than FUCK YOU. I couldn't get the bottom bolt undone AT ALL, so my only option was to do it that way or go to a shop with the money THAT I DON'T HAVE. I took every step to make sure that I wouldn't hurt my car or myself. Being that the spring was still basically in place, the only things I could have hurt were my shocks because they had to bounce back in the other direction, but those shocks are are fine and soon to be outta here anyway. You got any more complaints on my methods?
 

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ex-Super *********
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You know what, I dont want to fight will you about this or anything else. I could stoop down and start curseing at you but i wont. When it comes to doing something like modding a car it takes money to do it right. If you can not accept that then you will never be a good tuner. You can take a short-cut here and there and be fine, but one of these days it could bite you in the butt. If you dont have the money, make it.. I know it can be hard sometimes, but it ends up being worth waiting for that next one or two pay-checks to do it right. Didnt you say in another post(about the GADET vs. SR swap) that if your going to do something, do it right. Take your own advice. Please calm down, I just dont want to see anyone get hurt. You may have very well been safe in your car, but how would you feel if someone didnt know you were in your car and took your advice, popped the nut off and took a spring in the face? I think we need to drop the attitudes, both of us. I am apologizing to you 1997 GA16DE if I have upset you. When you see my attutude in the other thread(HS email) It is in no way directed soley at you. It jsut really upsets me that a lot of people have put a lot of time into building something that so many of us have wanted for so long and then people come along and dis them. When someone says turboing the GA is not worth it, wheather they relize it or no they are throwing down a major dis to those fine peeps who have worked their asses off and spent alot of their hard earned money to make the kit a reality.
 

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Please Shift Here
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6,696 Posts
Ok, we settled that little thing in the other thread. here's my response to this one:

I don't want to fight either, but I don't like beeing looked down upon like I'm an idiot or that I don't know what I'm doing. I might be somewhat new but ever since I've had my car, I've been practically living and breathing cars. All of these posts to the left I've written in less than a year and no, it's not from the off topic. I still don't know everything and I never will but when I attempt to do something to my car, I make sure I know everything I can. When I did that "dangerous" spring pop to my back springs, I would never refer to that as a short cut. I did that as a last resort and it worked out just fine. When I stripped the lower bolt, I had no way to remove the assembly. With no more money at the time, I had 2 choices...either redo the front and give up (b/c I already had the front ones on) or figure out a way to make it work. after taking in all the aspects, I found that it was perfectly safe for me and the car to go ahead and do it that way. After it was over and done, I got the same result as any other method. And I never told anyone to do it that way.
 

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ex-Super *********
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I know you didnt "tell" any one to do it that way, but lots of newbies read this stuff, Thats all. Just want to keep everyone safe and happy
 

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50 Posts
Guys, I had the same problems too. It took me over 6 hours just to fight with two knuckle bolts. The upper one finally came off, but the bottom one didn't. However, the nut on the bottom came off, but it bolt refused to move. I guess it didn't like 10w30 oil or probably it wasn't geasy enough. I think I'd rounded the bottom bolt's head a little. I'd tried to hammer the darn thing but it still won't move.

So what would you guy suggest, any comments would be helpful? I do have a 22" long torque wrench and a 21" long corilla lug wrench but neither seems to do the job. I know I can't flame the bolt since the present strut is a Gas strut, it might explode on me.

Do you guys think I should compress the spring down and try it? Right now I am just following the Hayes' instruction. It didn't mentioned anything about compressing the spring at all at this stage since I all I wanted to do is take the strut off. Wouldn't that makes more sense to compress the spring since the spring is putting a lot of force down right through the strut to knuckle joints where these two bolts are getting a lot of pressures?
 

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Please Shift Here
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6,696 Posts
LOL, look at this old thread. Ahh, the good ol days where me and Pat Scott would fight like cats and dogs :D.

it sounds like the bolt is held in from the pressure of the spring pushing down on the unit could be holding it in. It might be worth a shot to use the compressor to relieve the pressure on the bolt so you can pull it out. So you've already tried tapping the bolt out with a hammer?

When I did my rear lower bolt (finally) my breaker bar did nothing. It was so cross threaded, that I used a hacksaw to remove that lower bolt. Keep in mind, I already went to Nissan before hand to pick up all the bolts. As long as you already got the nut off, all that's left is trying to jiggle the bolt out.
 

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Soon to be GA16it
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444 Posts
So a lot of people are having problems with removing shocks and springs. I guess most of you never replaced a Civic hatch(92-95)suspension, coz its even worse than our car.
 

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Flux Capacitor is the key
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573 Posts
carzoni said:
trying to install drop springs..The two 17 mm bolts holding the lower end of the strut to the hub assembly are completely rusted--- tried PB blaster and liquid wrench... what else, I dont have a pneumatic /hydrualic torque wrench or any torches to heat it up... I got a quote of $250 (5.5 hours labor) to install the 4 drop springs, which is way more than I can pay... any ideas?
Two words...TQ WRENCH!
That thing will come off in two seconds rusted or not!!!!

You don't need hydraulic torque wrenches...get an electrical one!
It's well worth it!!! Trust mE!!!!
 

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Flux Capacitor is the key
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573 Posts
UNISH25 said:
Two words...TQ WRENCH!
That thing will come off in two seconds rusted or not!!!!

You don't need hydraulic torque wrenches...get an electrical one!
It's well worth it!!! Trust mE!!!!
Wtf! I meant to say impact wrench...
200ftlbs of tq!!!! That thing will come off in two seconds!
Theres no such thing as a electrical tq wrench(or is there?)
 

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Hi 1997 GA16DE. Thanks for the advice, I'll try to compress the spring and knock the bolts out with a hammer. It looks really tough to compress the spring while it's still in there since it's very tight but it might be well worth trying. I just got a bottle of wd-40 from bigK today. Hopefully, this stuff works better than 10w30 oil. I hope it works cuz I am dying to get that darn bolt out.
 

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Please Shift Here
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6,696 Posts
Mervic said:
So a lot of people are having problems with removing shocks and springs.
well, the biggest issue is the years of sand, grit, and rust that lock up the lower bolts. My car is a 97, therefore, when I had to remove the assembly, it already had over 5 years of crud to work through when I had to get those bolts off.
 

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OMG!!!!

OMG!!! DEJA VU! I just had the same experiences everyone here is talking about! This weekend I tried to replace my suspension and didn't get very far at all. I managed to get only one strut/spring combo out of the car only to find out that it is nearly impossible to get the strut piston rod nut off! I will definitely be taking my car somewhere for someone to loosen the piston rod nut with an impact wrench.

In the process of trying to get the 17mm knuckle bolt off, I broke 3 ratchets...all differently. (Only now do I know that you simply DO NOT use a ratchet to torque a bolt off!) What a PITA the removal was! I finally went out to SEARS and bought me a $28 Craftsman 1/2 drive 26-28" long breaker bar. Along with some PB stuff, the breaker bar, and tons of elbow grease and swearing did that damn knuckle bolt come off!

I will probably give it another go this weekend.

Wow fellas. I'm glad to find out I'm not the only one! I feel much better now!
 

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Soon to be GA16it
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444 Posts
1997 GA16DE said:
well, the biggest issue is the years of sand, grit, and rust that lock up the lower bolts. My car is a 97, therefore, when I had to remove the assembly, it already had over 5 years of crud to work through when I had to get those bolts off.
I agree. I guess it is a good practice to loosen some bolts on your suspenson and torque it back again to make sure the time you need to replace parts it will be easy enough to do it. Heck I am rebuilding the suspension of my car, Pulsar 1989, and I removed every parts at the front suspension. Not easy but I have no choice.
 

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Damn, that SoB strut-to-knuckle bolt still won't come out. I have beaten the crap out of it, rounded it head badly, and I have been driving with no nut on the its end and it still doesn't move over a week now!!!! I am thinking about removing the whole entire spindle along with it and get another spindle from the junk yard. So, guys, how hard is it to take the spindle off? Do I have to mess around with the CV Joint and it's boot? I have no problem bleeding the brake hose but there is some huge joint there... Any suggestions?
 

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Soon to be GA16it
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444 Posts
bvtran said:
Damn, that SoB strut-to-knuckle bolt still won't come out. I have beaten the crap out of it, rounded it head badly, and I have been driving with no nut on the its end and it still doesn't move over a week now!!!! I am thinking about removing the whole entire spindle along with it and get another spindle from the junk yard. So, guys, how hard is it to take the spindle off? Do I have to mess around with the CV Joint and it's boot? I have no problem bleeding the brake hose but there is some huge joint there... Any suggestions?
I would put the other bolt you removed back on while you haven't removed the bottom one. It is pretty dangerous to be driving with only one bolt and without a nut. If that bolt comes off, well lets just say you will have more expensive parts to replace and possibly of getting into an accident once that happen(hint: your car will drop like a bomb and you will have no steering whatsoever since the strut acts as a steering pivot like the lower ball joint and those strut to knuckle bolts holds the weight of the car to the spindle and connects the upper and lower suspension). Since you removed the nut off the bolt already, take a center punch and hammer it out. You probably replacing the struts anyways so damaging it should be fine. Once you remove the bolt, I suggest to use an anti-seize compound for ease on future repair.
 
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