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Discussion Starter #1
So I bought an 01 frontier SE king can desert runner. Great truck. Service engine light came on and most of the time it stays on. I wasn't aware it substituted the check engine light. It suddenly started kinda stuttering while I'm driving. It does it more when I get closer to 50mph and worse when faster. Rpms are fluttering more and it sometimes bottoms out but doesn't die. Read the code at O'Reilly's and it says thermostat. I'm no mechanic but I'm not sure the thermostat will make it do this. It seems more like bad gas or misfires. Can someone help please?
 

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Not sure why you are so focused on the thermostat. Its a possibility but there are other potential causes, and having personally experienced throttle body issues on my 2006, I am open to the idea that your problem may be with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The truck finally quit on me. It'll crank up no problem but the RPM bottoms constantly and it does. Especially when I try to drive it. WILL NOT GO ANYWHERE. So did some research and found kinda what u said that it was throttle body related. Does thisean I need to replace the throttle body?
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
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The code varies depending on the year. For 2006, the P1126 does refer to the throttle actuator, something a 2001 Frontier does not have (it has a throttle body, but not a throttle actuator used in the throttle-by-wire system used in later models with the VQ engine). For 2001 Frontiers, P1126 is for thermostat function. Basically, it is saying the coolant isn't getting to normal operating temperature where it can switch from open loop to closed loop. This can be caused by a stuck open thermostat or leakage around the thermostat or a faulty engine coolant temp sensor (for the ECM). This will usually cause the engine to run on the rich side. Now, I'm not saying this is the cause of the no start issue. Being a Desert Runner, I'm assuming you have a VG33E engine. These engines do have a lot of problems with distributor failure or the bolt that hold the rotor to the distributor shaft falling out, so it may be worth pulling the distributor cap, checking the cap and rotor button, check for excessive play and/or metal shavings which might indicate a bad shaft bearing and check for oil contamination of the optical sensor and sensor plate, which would indicate a failure of the internal oil seal around the shaft. It's also possible that the optical sensor inside the distributor has failed. If it is a bad distributor, there should be lack of spark to the plugs. If the distributor is bad, it's best to replace with a genuine Nissan or Hitachi reman, as there are a lot of quality control issues with aftermarket units or rebuilds. If it's not a spark issue, it could be a fuel delivery issue. Spray carb cleaner into the the engine and then see if it will start and run on the carb cleaner before stalling out. If it does, that will confirm a fuel delivery issue, which may be a bad fuel pump or relay or blown fuse. If you crank the engine with the distributor cap removed and the distributor shaft doesn't turn, that's usually a sign of a broken timing belt.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
UPDATE: replaced the thermostat,. No change. Still stalling out and bogging down. Cranks up just fine but as I drive it it just loses power and eventually stalls.
 

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UPDATE: replaced the thermostat,. No change. Still stalling out and bogging down. Cranks up just fine but as I drive it it just loses power and eventually stalls.
Jaysun,

Sometime's it's a lot cheaper to just take it to Nissan or a Very Experienced Nissan Mechanic to Diagnose and/or Repair.

To me it sounds like it might be a Clogged Cat, but it's best to get an Honest Diagnostic rather than throwing part's and hopeing that's it. It's a lot easier to diagnose while the engine is at least still able to run,, rather than trying to diagnose one that won't run at all.

Just my opinion, for what it's worth,
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I agree. I'm struggling as it is. What little money I do have is going towards my rent. That's why I'm on here. I try to do all my mechanic work because I can't afford to pay someone to do it. So I do my research and make a go of it. But it looks like that's what I'm gonna have to do. This sucks man I just bought the truck a month ago.
 

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I agree. I'm struggling as it is. What little money I do have is going towards my rent. That's why I'm on here. I try to do all my mechanic work because I can't afford to pay someone to do it. So I do my research and make a go of it. But it looks like that's what I'm gonna have to do. This sucks man I just bought the truck a month ago.
Jaysun,

Sounds a lot like me when I was in my 20's. 1st thing that I would do is get access or purchase a copy of the Genuine Nissan Service Manual for Your Truck. Google Search and you'll find a Free Download. I purchased my own copy for 10 $'s. You could still get Nissan or a Nissan Mechanic to diagnose your Truck, Pay for the diagnosis and do the work yourself. I recommend following SMJ's recommendation on parts and if no recommendation buy Geniune Nissan. Several Nissan Part's Dept's are selling on EBay and Amazon at reduced prices. SMJ may have a recommendation on an OBDII Diagnostic Code and Repair Reader.

Money has alway's been tight with me, so I do all the preventative maintenance myself and some repair's if I feel I can do a good job. If I'm not confident I just take it to Nissan and hope for the best outcome. If you purchase anything off of Amazon,, be sure to take advantage of their Charge Card Promotion's. I've taken advantage of 2 of them, one for 50 $'s and another for 70 $'s. They want you to use their card,, but wasn't mandatory and used my preferred charge card. One of My Old Buddie's bought a Mercedes and got his parts at "U Pull It" salvage yard's. I save a lot on Tools by getting them at Harbor Freight. Not all my tools are Harbor Freight,, but I'd say most of them are -- You just have to use common sense when purchaseing tools at Harbor Freight. If the tool looks like it won't stand up, then don't get it. Most likely I'm going to purchase their Impact Socket's SAE/Metric Set in the not too distant future.

Just a Few thing's above that I do that might help you.

Don't get in too big a hurry and you'll eventually get it and a Good Nissan Mechanic helping wouldn't hurt either.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Will a bad catalytic converter throw a code? I've cleaned the throttle body. Replaced the MAF the fuel filter and thermostat and it's still screwed. I took it to meineke, only because they were closest to my house and they said converter. But it didn't throw that code. It threw thermostat AND MAF. IM LOST
 

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Sup Mod keeping the peace
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What engine is in the truck, VG33E or VG33ER (supercharged)?

Did you ever fix the P1126 fault code problem?

The system may be in Fail-safe mode; engine speed will not rise more than 3,000 rpm. Recheck the ECU code readouts for any other fault codes that may be causing a fail-safe situation.

You may be getting misfires. Here are some things that could cause misfires:
  • Is the misfire occurring on any particular cylinder? What brand of spark plugs are you using? You should be using OEM NGK plugs; other brands such as Champion or Bosch many times cause driveability problems in Nissan engines.
  • The cam position sensor may be marginal which is in the distributor. Follow SMJ's previous post about the distributor problem.
  • The crankshaft position sensor may be marginal.
  • Incorrect fuel pressure. Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge between the fuel feed hose and the fuel rail. The readings at idle should be as follows:
  • with vacuum hose connected to the fuel pressure regulator: 34 psi
  • with vacuum hose disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator: 43 psi
  • There may be a major intake system vacuum leak. To check the intake system for a vacuum leak, attach a vacuum gauge to a full vacuum source. With the engine fully warmed up, the reading at idle should be 18 - 20 InHg. At 3,000 RPM, it should be 21 InHg. If readings are under 18 InHg, check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed; spray a water mist at the gasket to see if the gauge reading changes. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle valve and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.
  • Dirty fuel injector(s). Run some good injection cleaner, like Techron, Redline SL-1 or BG products 44K, through the system; give the cleaner about a week or two to do it's job.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yea I replaced the thermostat and the light went off. Then again, the light came back on and it read the MAF, thermostat and knock sensor. But it has since gone off again. While it's completely cold, I can go out and start it and drive it. Drives normal. But once the engine is warmed up all the way, it does. I'm looking into the distributor, the catalytic converter and the fuel pump. I've replaced the fuel filter, I've put on a new MAF and thermostat. No changes so I don't think it's in fail safe mode because like I said it's runs fine while cold. No struggles. IM BANGING MY HEAD AGAINST THE WALL!!!!
 

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Sup Mod keeping the peace
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Go through my diagnostic check list from my previous posting; in particular the fuel pressure and a major vacuum leak; those two items can affect how the engine will run when fully warmed up. Also test the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECTS CIRCUIT) which is used to detect the engine coolant temperature. The sensor modifies a voltage signal from the ECM; the modified signal returns to the ECM as the engine coolant temperature input.
 
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