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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, sory bout the rush but I really need some smart questions to ask and know what to look and listen for. The seller also says T25 turbo is getting old, how much to swap in a T28 (just replace turbo and tune?)

Here is the post on craigslist:
Selling my 1993 Nissan 240sx LE KA-T. I bought this car years ago in almost new condition and then slowly changed it. I'm moving out of the province soon and would like to sell.

NOT PARTING ANYTHING!

NOT SELLING WHEEL/TIRES IN THE PICTURES.. car comes with stock 7 spokes with winter tires.

1993 Nissan 240sx LE.
- AC blows cold. PS. cruise control. Super Hicas. ABS. power everything and keyless doors with remote paging alarm.
- air cared until Nov 2009

EXTERIOR and INTERIOR
- 186000 km's on the body.
- 3" exhaust that is quiet compared to many turbo'd cars and really quiet compared to NA cars with fart cans.
- black with some scratches and dings and the only rust on this car is some dime size spots on the shock tower (typical 240 strut rust). i have the original foam spoiler on with NO rust. frame rails are intact and no rust.
- full Canadian oem kit (side skirts, rear lip/valence) and a zenki lip.
- Gladman/red ebay tail lights.
- ZERO accidents, but a guy backed into me while parking his car (i was sitting in my car) and he paid for the $10 worth of touch up paint
- clean interior and comes with wiring for sub/amp. comes with pioneer deck that has an ipod plug in the front. stock speakers unfortunately
- full grey leather seats with black interior
- grey gts-t drivers seat (hold you way better then stock). i have the stock leather drivers seat sitting at home.
- triple gauge pod where front vent use to be. boost (trisco. haha) and oil press and water temp (both autometer sport comp 2 black face half sweep)
- H4 conversion pop up light with awesome bulbs that light up the road that are better then stock (not blue tinted white bulbs)

ENGINE
- KA24DE-T. 3500 km's on a rebuilt motor.
I rebuilt this motor (KA24DE) myself in july 2008 and no short cuts were taken and all new gaskets, seals, and piston rings and every other internal part was checked, cleaned, or replaced
- 2.4 L DOHC
- SR T25 turbo (only running 7 psi of boost)
- Stainless Steel bottom mount turbo manifold
- Stainless steel turbo elblow and down pipe
- front mount intercooler
- Z32 fuel filter
- Z32 maf (n62)
- Walbro high flow fuel pump
- SR 370cc fuel injectors
- safc 2 (super air flow controller)
- auto meter gauges
- NGK wideband
- electric fan that turns on and off by ignition, but also has a switch to turn if off while driving.
- new water pump - new park plugs, distributor cap, and rotor.
- new 02 sensor
- all new belts
- this car runs awesome and has great AFR's
- all useless emissions were taken out (still passed air care)
- custom heat shields
- Just installed a brand new JGS Performance turbo oil feed line kit on 28 Oct 2008

DRIVETRAIN
- stock re-surfaced flywheel
- Competition Stage 2 Clutch Kit... holds up to 293 ft lbs of tq. went in with the rebuilt motors... so also 3500 km. this clutch holds great and does not slip when boosting.
- flushed transmission and dif last year

FOOT WORK
- Z32 30mm 4 piston aluminum front brake calipers with slotted 30mm Z32 rotors (stops fast as tested in auto-x).
- rear pads were changed in july 2008.
- Z32 brake MC
- jic rear coilovers, Newer Whiteline Front Coilovers installed 28 Oct 2008.
- comes with stock 7 spoke nissan rims with pirelli high performance winter tires.

a lot of people have seen my car and my biased opinion is that it is pretty clean.

i think $8,000 is reasonable AND not in any rush to sell this car, because it's still fun as hell and i havent put too much (or not enough) on the rebuilt motor yet and just installed more new parts on 28 Oct 2008. If i dont sell it, it's going in the garage until i get back.

I HAVE ALL THE RECEIPTS FOR THE REBUILD PARTS, CLUTCH and other random parts
 

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I would suggest the following:
  1. Do a compression test before you buy
  2. Get under the car and look for damaged bushings/rust/anything spooky
  3. Bring a flash light
  4. get it up to 140km/h and see if it shakes
  5. bog it in 5th to see if the clutch is shot
  6. check the trans/motor mounts
  7. go over the car with a fine toothed comb and negoiate - helps if you bring cash with you. you'll always get a better price when the owner says "show me the money" and you do
it is a preowned ka-t - lol...... so buyer beware. not many people take it easy on the 240's (im no exception) and even less so when they turbo it. don;t buy that "i built it so im not gonna beat on it" bullshit. compression/leak down will tell ya what you need to know anyways.

good luck.
 

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I would suggest the following:
  1. Do a compression test before you buy
  2. Get under the car and look for damaged bushings/rust/anything spooky
  3. Bring a flash light
  4. get it up to 140km/h and see if it shakes
  5. bog it in 5th to see if the clutch is shot
  6. check the trans/motor mounts
  7. go over the car with a fine toothed comb and negoiate - helps if you bring cash with you. you'll always get a better price when the owner says "show me the money" and you do
it is a preowned ka-t - lol...... so buyer beware. not many people take it easy on the 240's (im no exception) and even less so when they turbo it. don;t buy that "i built it so im not gonna beat on it" bullshit. compression/leak down will tell ya what you need to know anyways.

good luck.
good expanation matt. yeah what matt said you need to pretty much check.
 

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ditto enough said
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks guys

The car was SH*T. The oil return line on the turbo was dripping as it idled. I'm thinking I best buy something stock, and build as I learn. I never knew about taking the car to 140kmh. I'll make sure I do this with the next car(s) I look at.
Thanks again guys, I'll try to find something informative to post in the future.

Andrew

PS Where are some good places in Vancouver to get the SR20det swap or Turbo Kit install. I know of:
Cannonball \ garage 5 and teamworks.
Any other sugestions or reviews of above.
 

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Do the work yourself if you can..It will pay off 10X in the long run while you are troubleshooting.
 
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