[Leighanne.tapia]

3 weeks ago I bought a 2002 Nissan Sentra 1.8 l and ever since I purchased there has been constant problems from where go there was no catalytic converter there was six codes reading all from the Cadillac converter being gone I drove the car about a week then on the freeway doing 95 yes I was very much speeding the car shut off luckily I was at an exit and able to get off the freeway and on the shoulder of the exit to where it took me about an hour to start the car up when I finally started the car to get it all the way off the off ramp it started knocking and there was no RPMs at all so I drove it off the freeway it died at the top of the off ramp and I parked it has not started since there has been oil change because I thought maybe it needed an oil change cuz it was when I did change it it was jet black then I thought it might have been a head gasket so I put the bars head gasket repair in with the oil treatment but haven't been able to run the car to see if that helps I have changed the starter the first time I change the starter I think the person that did it who said he was a mechanic put the wires wrong because the car he was cranking and cranking and cranking about 20 times and their starters being smoking it goes all it's smoking and he kept cranking now today after I've changed the starter back to the original starter cuz I don't think it was the starter I've also changed the crankshaft position sensor I have checked all the wiring I get a battery because the previous battery for some reason went completely dead and no longer usable now all I get is a high pitch buzzing noise or squeaking noise no lights on dash however let me put a side note the previous owner had the car stolen from them so they could steal the Cadillac converter so there is no keys for the outer doors or keys for the ignition of this car I don't know if there's any anti-theft system on the car I have pulled out the ECM because there was two extras in the car when I purchased it so I wanted to see what it possibly could be a reason why there are so many of them however I just need to know what I need to do to fix this stupid car cuz I spent every last dime to get this car and I put about $1,000 in it in the last week

 

[NuevaGallinas]

Jesus, theres literally no punctuation anywhere.
If no one has helped you yet, that's probably why.
It's so hard to read!

 

[NuevaGallinas]

But in all seriousness, if your catalytic converter shit the bed, you would be hard-pressed to get that thing up to 95 mph.
Catalytic converter problems typically only allow you to go to about 40 mph or so, due to the exhaust being restricted and the engine not being able to properly dispose of the said exhaust.

Throwing a starter at it didn't help, so that obviously wasn't the problem.

Oil change wouldn't fix it.

Bars leak-stop is a scam and is the most likely culprit of why your car won't start at all. Bars leak's operate by attaching itself to any orifice that may exist. Which would sound good, in theory.
But the oil passages and everything may have also been "stop-leaked". I have no idea how that even legal to sell, such a bullshit scam.
I've used it on a car before, and I never fucking will again... that's for sure LOL.

I would say the chances of you having overheated the engine are pretty good. And if it was giving you problems from the get, why you were pushing it to 95 miles an hour is beyond me.

Regardless, it sounds to me like you bought a lemon and you got burned I'm really sorry.

 

[2018frontier]

Seized engine?

 

[NuevaGallinas]

A car needs very little to run: air, spark and fuel. If you don't have any testing equipment, start with this. If you have a used-kinda-working-battery, attempt to spray starter fluid in the throttle body while someone tries to crank the engine over.
If it starts you know it's not getting fuel. If it doesn't, it's not getting spark.
From there....
Try this.... In order, please otherwise you're screwed once again.

★Crankshaft Position Sensor didn't fix it, so new plugs and wires may help.
★Get a new ignition coil.
★Power transistor (maybe)
★Maybe try a new battery again.

Whatever you do, don't try to start the car until the battery dies.

 

[Leighanne.tapia]

Well first off sorry about the punctuation I just do voice text and it's not my fault that it does not punctuate. However I had charge battery all night it wanted to turn over but didn't.
I have already changed the crankshaft position sensor, the starter, the o2 sensors, the exhaust has been straight piped & welded, i have cleaned the map sensor, & replaced battery. Plus multiple other cosmetic repairs & fixes.
I put the obm2 reader on after failed attempt this morning & these codes came up. P0105, P1165, P1131, & P1605.
So here's my problem I don't know if these are the cause for no start but it's cranking now. Lol.
I really don't know how to fix these code errors but I'm willing to learn If anyone will tell me what to do

 

[Leighanne.tapia]

Oh it has never overheated or anything else that would make me believe it is a blown head gasket but the knocking is only reason I used bars stop leak per recommendation of O'Reilly's.

 

[Leighanne.tapia]

Oh & when I did oil change I did change plugs & coils

 

[Leighanne.tapia]

I know I should think before I just post all these little post on top of this but by chance do anybody have a PDF of the service manual or anything like that so that way I can know what I'm doing because I've been looking for one at AutoZone and O'Reilly's where I live and I can't find one I know I can order it online but I really don't want to pay all that money I've already put out so much money

 

[rogoman]

Well first off sorry about the punctuation I just do voice text and it's not my fault that it does not punctuate. However I had charge battery all night it wanted to turn over but didn't.
I have already changed the crankshaft position sensor, the starter, the o2 sensors, the exhaust has been straight piped & welded, i have cleaned the map sensor, & replaced battery. Plus multiple other cosmetic repairs & fixes.
I put the obm2 reader on after failed attempt this morning & these codes came up. P0105, P1165, P1131, & P1605.
So here's my problem I don't know if these are the cause for no start but it's cranking now. Lol.
I really don't know how to fix these code errors but I'm willing to learn If anyone will tell me what to do

Our web site uses a very basic text editor. It's what's called WYSIWYG, an acronym for What You See Is What You Get, is a system in which editing software allows content to be edited in a form that resembles its appearance when printed or displayed as a finished product, such as a printed document, web page, or slide presentation. It doesn't set caps at the beginning of every sentence and no automatic punctuation but it does spell checking. In the future when posting, try to do proper grammar.

Now down to your problems. You really purchased a mess; also had a so called mechanic? that appears to have done more damage to an already messed up vehicle. You can obtain an FSM (factory service manual) from 2002 Nissan Sentra PDF Owner's Manuals or Nissan and Infiniti Service Manuals. Section EC.PDF is the section you want to read for a description of DTCs and diagnostic procedures.

The knocking could be caused by a problem with the timing chain assembly. The chain tensioner may not be working correctly due to a plugged up oil passage for the tensioner. This could be due to motor oil that was never changed resulting with sludge in the oil passages.

Possible causes for P0105 DTC:

• - Bad Harness or connectors. The communication line circuit between ECM and TCM (Transmission Control Module) is open or shorted.
• - Dead or weak battery.
• - TCM (Transmission Control Module) may be defective.

Possible causes for P1605 DTC:

• - Faulty manifold absolute pressure sensor; harness may be open, shorted or poor electrical connection.
• - Faulty ECM (engine control module).

Possible causes for P1165 and P1131 DTC:

• - Clogged hose to Swirl control valve control vacuum check switch.
• - Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid harness is open, shorted or poor electrical connection; control Valve Solenoid itself is faulty.

 

[Leighanne.tapia]

Our web site uses a very basic text editor. It's what's called WYSIWYG, an acronym for What You See Is What You Get, is a system in which editing software allows content to be edited in a form that resembles its appearance when printed or displayed as a finished product, such as a printed document, web page, or slide presentation. It doesn't set caps at the beginning of every sentence and no automatic punctuation but it does spell checking. In the future when posting, try to do proper grammar.

Now down to your problems. You really purchased a mess; also had a so called mechanic? that appears to have done more damage to an already messed up vehicle. You can obtain an FSM (factory service manual) from 2002 Nissan Sentra PDF Owner's Manuals or Nissan and Infiniti Service Manuals. Section EC.PDF is the section you want to read for a description of DTCs and diagnostic procedures.

The knocking could be caused by a problem with the timing chain assembly. The chain tensioner may not be working correctly due to a plugged up oil passage for the tensioner. This could be due to motor oil that was never changed resulting with sludge in the oil passages.

Possible causes for P0105 DTC:

• - Bad Harness or connectors. The communication line circuit between ECM and TCM (Transmission Control Module) is open or shorted.
• - Dead or weak battery.
• - TCM (Transmission Control Module) may be defective.

Possible causes for P1605 DTC:

• - Faulty manifold absolute pressure sensor; harness may be open, shorted or poor electrical connection.
• - Faulty ECM (engine control module).

Possible causes for P1165 and P1131 DTC:

• - Clogged hose to Swirl control valve control vacuum check switch.
• - Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid harness is open, shorted or poor electrical connection; control Valve Solenoid itself is faulty.

Thank you so much you rock... okay so I'll go ahead and get my hands dirty tomorrow morning with the suggestions & codes needing fixed.
I really appreciate the assistance and suggestion and help that you guys are giving me thank you.
if I run into any more problems I'll definitely be back or I'll have a very heavy bill from a mechanic needing to be paid.
Thanks again really appreciate the fact that you guys weren't sarcastic or rude or condescending cuz you know some of these sites can be that way but you guys rock and I appreciate it all

 

[Leighanne.tapia]

So I ended up having to swap out the ECU and now I'm getting codes p1610 and p1612. I know that these have to do with the security system but I don't have a security system indicator light on my dash so what can I do to bypass this or do I have to take it to a dealership because this is ridiculousness

 

[Leighanne.tapia]

However it's now attempting to turn over so that's a huge plus.

 

[VStar650CL]

So I ended up having to swap out the ECU and now I'm getting codes p1610 and p1612. I know that these have to do with the security system but I don't have a security system indicator light on my dash so what can I do to bypass this or do I have to take it to a dealership because this is ridiculousness

If the car has NATS/NVIS then you should just need to reprogram your keys. Most mobile locksmiths can do it, you shouldn't need a dealer visit. If it doesn't have NATS/NVIS then you put the wrong ECM in the car and it will need to be reflashed with the correct firmware. That's a job for the dealer.

 

[Leighanne.tapia]

OKAY NOW IT'S BEEN MONTHS... I GET IT...
SINCE I HAVE STARTED THIS WHOLE THING WITH MY CAR HOWEVER I'M STILL NOT ABLE TO START MY CAR....
SO I HAVE INSTALLED FOUR STARTERS EVERY ONE OF THE STARTERS THE SOLENOID HAS GOTTEN BLOWN.
I HAVE REPLACED EVERY SENSOR ON THIS VEHICLE, CHECK THE TIMING BELT PERFECT STILL, PURCHASE A BRAND NEW BATTERY, INSTALLED NEW SPARK PLUGS & COILS, CHANGE THE THERMOSTAT, CHANGE THE SWIRL CONTROL, CHANGED OUT THE O2 SENSORS, AND STILL NO START....
SO MY DAD WHO IS A MECHANIC WIRES ON THE STARTER TO TRY TO JUMP IT WHILE STARTING IT ATTEMPTED TO TURN OVER BUT THEN IT BLEW THE SOLENOID & HE PUT SOME GROUNDING WIRES ACROSS THE FRONT OF THE MOTOR AND MY FRIEND SAID WE OVER GROUNDED THE CAR AND REMOVED THOSE WIRES & NOW I'M JUST AT MY WIT'S END


SO MY QUESTION IS NOW DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE THE GROUND WIRES ARE LOCATED ON THE CAR SO I CAN CHECK THOSE AND WHAT COULD IT POSSIBLY BE NOW
BECAUSE OTHER THAN SETTING THE CAR ON FIRE AFTER I GET FULL COVERAGE I'M OUT $5,000 IN TOTAL REPAIRS PARTS AND FRUSTRATION.....

 

[rogoman]

If you're constantly blowing out the starter solenoid, then the electrical system is getting very high voltage from the alternator. A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts. When a charging system is overcharging, a lot of "strange" things can occur. It's not uncommon to see a multiple of stored trouble codes in the ECM memory. So, whenever a car is setting a multiple of trouble codes, idling funny or stalling, or anything out of the "norm," test the charging system before you start pulling hairs!