Well I got a set for Christmas, and will be installing tomorrow. Has anyone here put these on their SE-R? Where did you mount them? Does anyone know if the horn switches - or +?
I will post a full write up with pics when done!
It comes with the 3 horns, 1 compressor, nuts and bolts to mount the horns and compressor, a piece of plastic tubing and a 3-1 fitting to run the air from the compressor to the horns, plus a relay to get everything switched up. Notice the metal strip with holes- this was purchased extra from Home Depot. It's a 12" long strap found in the plumbing aisle, used for hanging pipes. This is the bracket the 3 horns are mounted on. Extras you will also need to purchase will be:
30amp inline fuse holder w/30amp fuse,
12-18gauge wire- take your pick, 2 colors to separate + and -,
2 packs of male and female "quick disconnect" crimp connectors for whichever gauge wire you purchased plus one circle style crimp connector,
Solder and electrical tape,
Zipties and 10-24x3/4" nuts and bolts, preferably hex heads.
First: remove stock horn. It's sitting to the right of the central rad support bracket- it's gone in the pic, the bolt sticking out in the center of the pic is where the bracket for it mounts:
Note the wire above and to the left covered with that plastic ribbing- that's the switched line to the horn you will use.
Second: remove grill. Pop up the center of the 4 "caps" - 2 in the bumpercover and 2 into the metal rad support. Be careful! they break easily! Then with a small flat blade screwdriver, pry off the 6 metal clips that secure the sides and bottom of the mesh grill to the bumper cover. Carefully remove the mesh grill.
Third: Bend that metal bracket for the horns into an "L" between the first and second hole. Using the hardware you bought, bolt the bent end to the middle vert. rad support, and the flat end to the hole where the stock horn was mounted to:
Fourth: Start wiring! Red for +, black for - . Wire the connection to the positive terminal of the battery using the inline fuse holder and the circle crimp connector. DO NOT ACTUALLY HOOK UP YET! This connect's with extra wire to #30 on the relay with a female quick connector(this is where the solder comes in). Then using the other female quick connectors, hook up relay #85 to the the ground strap the battery grounds to, Wire and route relay #87 to in front of the radiator. This will hook into the compressor's + terminal, but leave it dangling for now. Wire and route relay #86 to the same spot, and with a male quick connect plug this into the wire the stock horn was using. That's it for the majority of wiring- really easy, just follow the diagram that came with the horns. The relay will screw nicely into one of the smaller holes on the inside of the driver's fender, right next to where the battery - terminal is grounded. Here's a pic, the wiring will get cleaned up with zipties when you finish. It's hard to see, but you get the idea:
Fifth: Mount the airhorns! I mounted them using the bolts I bought as the ones that come with the kit will not fit through the strap's holes. You can either use smaller bolts like I did, or widen the holes or find something else that will accomodate the diameter of the bolts the airhorns come with. The compressor is mounted on the right diagonal rad support, to the right of the stock horn bracket. It needs to hang vertically. There isn't a lot of room to tighten- the smaller your fingers are the easier it will be! I also ziptied it for extra measure against it rattling loose. Before you mount it, hook up a short 4" piece of wire to the negative terminal of the compressor with a female quick disconnect. Attach the other end to the bolt that mounts it, effectively grounding it to the rad support bracket.
Here's the mounted setup:
Sixth: Connect the plastic tubing! One end to the compressor output- I made it long enough to reach the middle horn, then cut three equal pieces to connect each of the horns using the 3-1 connector. This way the air will reach all 3 horns at the same time.
Seventh: Hook the dangling female connector to the compressor's positive terminal, then attach the circle connector at the end of the inline fuse holder to the bolt sticking off the positve battery terminal.
Eighth: Put in some ear plugs and sound your new horns! Yes, they will be that loud.
Nineth: make sure all connections are tight, ziptie any wires to clean things up, reattach the grill, and smile. That's it! Here's a pic of the completed setup:
Yes my car is very dirty
You don't really see them through the grill! The only "downside" is since the horn that sounds when you lock the car is the same one you beep, the compressor doesn't get a long enough spurt of juice to sound the horns when you lock the car with the keyless entry (assuming the same with the key in the door, but haven't tried). It basically makes a very very tiny "smept!" noise when you lock the car. You can get around this by keeping the stock horn. The instructions tell you how to wire this as an option, and I'd assume it'd work fine. But since I used the stock horn mounting location, I'd have to redo the whole thing and find a new mounting point for the air horns if I wanted this feature. No big deal to me. If it is to you- learn from my example, and post how and where you mounted the airhorns differently!
Now go scare some kids off their bikes, and give some heart attacks to those that cut you off in traffic!
I can post more pics and hopefully sound if you guys want.
I had the duals on my 98 Ginster GTI and they were loud as hell, but harsh too. The thing I like about the triples is the lack of shrillness- it's still very loud, has that great sound but doesn't make you cringe as much as the duals.
Still working on a way to get a good sound clip for you all. I currently don't have a good site to host it, and I'd like it to be a quality one vs. all the crappy soundbites out there.
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