Headlight switch
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That's configurable on all gen5 Altimas. Go into your Settings menu in the instrument cluster and find "Light Off Delay", set it to zero.
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You can't do it through the switch, there's no direct connection. The switch is a matrix type which is read by the BCM, the BCM then tells the IPDM by CANbus what to do with the lights. The only way to do what you're proposing would be to modify the IPDM circuit board.
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Happy to help, sorry it wasn't better news.
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36 Posts
You can wire it to an ignition source,carefully.
Pull the headlamp fuse, and use a volt meter to see what terminal has power
with the lights on. NOTE that, and stay away from it.
Wire a fused jumper to the adjacent terminal, then the other end to the switched
ignition source.
![Cable Wire Usb cable Data transfer cable Electrical supply]()
You will cut one spade terminal at the end off, and that goes to the
+12 ignition. Then the other spade terminal goes into the fuse slot
that does NOT have power on it with the lamps on.
It will go like this:
![Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Gas Steering wheel Cable]()
Notice the red fused jumper. This will take the power from the left lead,
and sent it to the fuse terminal on the right lead. You would do the same
thing. If the wire will not stay in that terminal, plug a blown fuse in over
top of it, like this:
![Vehicle Auto part Machine Electronic device Technology]()
This was how I changed the switched 12V Ports, to 12V battery so they were always hot.
Elaboration:
This was also how I wired an AUX battery to all my audio components in a
different car. That way, my 1800 watts of stereo would never drain the
primary battery, to never have a starting issue.
The batteries were separated by an isolated relay. That relay was only latched
when the key was in the RUN position, to charge both batteries. So, if the AUX
battery was weak, it would not pull any power from the primary when cranking.
Thus, when the key was in ACCY position so I could use the stereo, they were
still separated. I wired the amps, radio, and some lighting to the AUX battery.
Had two LED volt meters, one on the primary, and one on the secondary. The
secondary also had a solar charger on it, set on the rear deck, in the back window.
Pull the headlamp fuse, and use a volt meter to see what terminal has power
with the lights on. NOTE that, and stay away from it.
Wire a fused jumper to the adjacent terminal, then the other end to the switched
ignition source.
You will cut one spade terminal at the end off, and that goes to the
+12 ignition. Then the other spade terminal goes into the fuse slot
that does NOT have power on it with the lamps on.
It will go like this:
Notice the red fused jumper. This will take the power from the left lead,
and sent it to the fuse terminal on the right lead. You would do the same
thing. If the wire will not stay in that terminal, plug a blown fuse in over
top of it, like this:
This was how I changed the switched 12V Ports, to 12V battery so they were always hot.
Elaboration:
This was also how I wired an AUX battery to all my audio components in a
different car. That way, my 1800 watts of stereo would never drain the
primary battery, to never have a starting issue.
The batteries were separated by an isolated relay. That relay was only latched
when the key was in the RUN position, to charge both batteries. So, if the AUX
battery was weak, it would not pull any power from the primary when cranking.
Thus, when the key was in ACCY position so I could use the stereo, they were
still separated. I wired the amps, radio, and some lighting to the AUX battery.
Had two LED volt meters, one on the primary, and one on the secondary. The
secondary also had a solar charger on it, set on the rear deck, in the back window.
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That's not a gen5 IPDM and not a headlight circuit. There are 4 fuses and wires for the headlights, two low and two high. So you'd basically need to tap one each feeding 4 separate fused relays. One look at the wiring diagram would tell you it's impractical on the OP's vehicle, as well as most other Nissans from 2000 up.
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36 Posts
That's not even a ROGUE fuse box... That is from my Camaro, and I said it was to make
my 12V ports hot at all times. See? You're a PIP. You can't even read... I even wrote "This was also
how I wired an AUX battery to all my audio components in a different car."
-and-
"This was how I changed the switched 12V Ports, to 12V battery so they were always hot."
DIFFERENT Circuit too, and a different CAR. If you could not determine that,
then you need to brush up on your deductive reasoning skills.
100% an example, and you present it after the fact, as if it were from a Nissan?
His year range Ultima as TWO 15-amp fuses for the lo-beams, 36 and 37:
2018 Nissan Altima fuse box diagram - StartMyCar
www.startmycar.com
The application still applies, he would need two fused jumpers, & a 12V 40A relay.
Pin 85 to IGN +12 and 86 to GND as the ignition trigger.
Pin 30 to the battery, pin 87 to both jumpers, to the fuse leg slots.
I do this shit all the time, I know it works.
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4,107 Posts
That's what I said, pal, two for low and two for high. Unless he wants his high beams staying on when the switch is in that position, he needs four relays, not two. Maybe you like turning your vehicles into Wirezilla, but most people don't.
Exactly descript for what you're suggesting. Possible, yes. Shitty, yes also.
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