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Discussion Starter #1
Ok Guy's hears the deal I bought a 96 Sentra and it had high miles and a noisy top end and it had a variety of little problems. So I made a decision to swap out the engine and trans from a Junk yard car that was hit hard. The engine and trans had 30k on them and I got the whole deal for 900 bucks. I said great I'll swap engines and all will be well. Wrong I still have the very same hard start issue that I had before and the car just feels flat! it is an auto but the low end and especially the mid range are bad. I know the car only has 90wheel hp. but it should move better than it does?? I have checked all of the usual places for problems and have no codes. I'm leaning toward a fuel pump issue for the hard start because it is much harder to start when parked in my driveway facing up hill than if I back up. I believe that the check valve is gov in the pump? Anyway the timing was checked and looks good is there anything else that you can think off?? I was also wondering if the injectors could be an issue? Can they clog from sitting for a long period of time? What about the Ecu (computer) can this be the culprit? I once had a Mitsubishi engine in a Mini Van that was acting the same and no matter what I did with it it never ran right?? I finally got another computer and it ran perfectly after that! Anyone have a computer kicking around??I'm fed up!! Thanks
 

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why dont you get a stop watch and time your 0-60 a couple of times on flat ground and see where its at. that should tell you and us a lot.
Re: hard start.
Does it crank fast for a long time or have trouble cranking ?
interesting observation about the slope affecting starting.
i assume you have done the usual stuff, fuel filter plugs leads, distributor cap and rotor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Ian I was hoping that you would bight! I also thought that was interesting about the slope that is. And yes I have tried it all and quite frankly I'm stupid! I am a mechanic and have had a lot of cars in my day but never a jap car and I have to believe that this thing has to have more zip than it's showing it's a very low milage combo even if it is an auto car. There is a dead spot that seems real weird almost like there is a fuel delivery issue at times?? No matter I bought a pump anyway and will be putting it in as soon as it stops raining here. Can it be the computer? I have zero codes?? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yea did all the stuff you posted and yes it cranks real easy the batterie and starter are fine. It's almost as if the line is drained of gas in the Am once it's running it's starts on three imeadiatly! If it is the pump it would explain all of the symtoms.......
 

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Well i agree, also check any screen, but you know that !!
,my only experience like this was with a suburban, we moved to Colorado springs and the house was at 6800 ft.
Anyway going up hill it would lose power, and it was fine otherwise, and of course at sea level where the car came from it was fine. ( Houston is almost under sea level !!!)
Yes replaced the Fuel pump with an electric mounted at the tank, and all was well.
might be worth checking the fuel pressure regulator if we have one, don't know for sure, my Pathy has one !!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You know I kicked that idea around but the other engine with all the top end noises was running the same as this low miler?? Which tells me that it's more than likely not the reg. If it's decent tomorrow we will see......
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well Ian it appears that I still have somthing going on and this is starting to really P---
Off!! I have tried everything except the computer! Could it be that I'm simply not geting the cold start signel??? Oh and I want to use some Lube Gard in my auto slush box opinions please........
 

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From what i have read here people who left the air temp sensor of their intake when they put on an after market had more obvious problem's.
I still think you should get a few 0-60 times, it will tell us if you are in the ball park or dead slow.....
 

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I don't know diddly about slush boxes, avoid them all i can, except when don't have a choice.
But I do know the only times I have been stranded it was because the Slush box broke, two rental cars and my Buick 455 !!!
I got lucky with the rentals, one just limped in to the return place, one broke on the access roads in the airport and get this, my Buick broke going into Houston intercontinental Airport ( now Bush intercontinental Airport) to meet arriving friends. Had to get that puppy towed home to a shop in Sugarland / Stafford.
It must be an Airport curse !!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I will say this the car has with out a doubt picked up a bit since the new pump was installed. I believe the stocker was tired for sure and possibly the cause of the soft spot's throughout the rpm range as slushbox shift. Man O man I am tempted to buy a shift kit for this thing and see how it works but I don't want to kill my mpg though. I will also say that shifting manually provides much quicker acceleration without a doubt! In a nut shell this auto trans stinks! It seems that this little engine needs to reside over the 3k mark to make any steam what so ever and the auto slush box is got the engine bogging below the power band. At least this is how I see it. Anyone else have an auto 1.6 and want to comment?? Oh and as far as the sensor I am ready to try that to is it one of those items that goes quick? Heck I would have figured I would pulled a code though????
 

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My Sunny 1.6 B15 / N16 was an auto and really slow, but with the traffic in Singapore it didn't matter much. 0 -60 in the mags was 11.5seconds I think ?
well if you look at a dyno sheet I am sure there not much power below 3000.
As for economy, a stick is usually better in the real world, even if the EPA number says they are the same or better.
I had identical 1998 Astra's in Germany, one auto and one manual
the Auto did 7km/liter and the manual 10 -11 km/liter on the same commute back and forth to work. This was over many weeks. This was a huge difference !!! and at $4 plus a gallon even then.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So Ian Honestly what is you opinion on this hard start issue? I will not be beat by this! And the last thing I want is to have to go out and start the car at Five in the Mourning and have to sit there and crank! It has to be somthing easy that I'm missing somwhere? It's driving me nut's! Do you have a value chart on the intake air temp sensor Could thiis be it???? I will say it was the only thing that didn't come with the new engine.....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well Ian I swapped out the air intake sensor with a known good spare and nothing! The same! I turn over the engine for a normal cycle of about six seconds two or three times before it starts to catch and after that even though engine is trying to start it does not and finally it will start in a very loaded condition?? I'm baffled??? I am starting to think it has to be the darn computer?? Do you know the exact sequence of operation on cold start is??
 

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What about the engine coolant temp sensor? EC-328 in the 96 FSM to check values.
Air intake temp sensor chart is EC-323
If you give it a small amount of throttle opening does it start easier ?
After that i guess you are left with the ECU, is there one you can swap ?
 

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what do you mean loaded condition ? Is it rich ?
 

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my car kinda has an odd start as well, like it start as soon as I turn the key and seem be be running very low when it first starts, but I don't think much of it cause it starts right away lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Sensor is new I checked the values and they were off by a bit and it was cheap enough and the original had mega miles so I put a new one in. It wasn't the answer! As far as the loaded condition goes it seems that by the time the engine finally starts to fire I get the smell of fuel and it is clear that the engine is partially flooded and quickly clears out. It is almost as if there simply is very little spark at the time of start when it's cold? I am really leaning toward the computer having an issue here? What else can it be? After all of the cranking the thing runs like a top and starts immediately every time until all of the BS starts again!
Ian tell me I have jogged something here and you have an answer??? In the big picture the only problems this will cause is going out there at five in the Am and cranking away that and I will have to get another starter soon Lol!!
 

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Have you checked the grounds for everything?? Would be a decent thing to look into. My GF has a 05 sentra that has about the same issue starting. Takes at least three times of cranking it to get it going. Dealer said it was fixed. Loos connection is all they said. Went back to doing it a couple of days later.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yah that was one of the first things that I did since I changed the engine and trany. The problem was the same with the first combo of engine and trany. That is why I am begining to lean towards the ecu.
 

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Is it possible the injectors are leaking? I know these changed with the engine but that's all i can think of EXCEPT the ECU.
I have read of strange stuff with one cylinder not getting spark intermittently, but I dont understand how a distributor set up can have that problem. they said that each spark plug has its own output from the ECU and they can go intermittent, this was on SR20 forum and the ignition set up is same as the GA.
 
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