[K3l3v]

Hey, replacing a clutch on a 95 base model Sentra. I ran into a problem when trying to remove the nuts to the half-shaft at the hub. I finally broke the passenger side free with a propane torch, and a 4-ft cheater bar, but the driver's side will not give for anything. Looking at the end of the shaft, the two sides are NOT identical. Can anyone help me with getting this nut off? Maybe there's a shear pin?

Passenger side (the one that I got loose)

Driver's side (the one I can't break loose)

Help!?

 

[vrefron]

Impact gun usually works.

 

[K3l3v]

Unfortunately, I don't have access to one. I'm changing this thing in my apartment complex's parking lot. So far, I haven't had any complaints (I don't leave the car on jacks, and I don't leave it unattended when it is on jacks, and I pay my rent every month on time). May have to remove the whole hub with the drive shaft and take it to a shop?

 

[nissannick1]

Get a longer cheater bar. I used a 6 foot steel pipe.

 

[K3l3v]

So, absolutely no chance that the half-shaft nut on the driver's side has any 'hidden surprises' that would prevent it from turning? I will try again on Thursday (working around work schedule). It does not have a spot for a cotter pin (from what I can see), like the passenger side. It also has the groove and a long section without threads (unlike the passenger's side).

Thanks for the replies so far!

 

[nissannick1]

So, absolutely no chance that the half-shaft nut on the driver's side has any 'hidden surprises' that would prevent it from turning? I will try again on Thursday (working around work schedule). It does not have a spot for a cotter pin (from what I can see), like the passenger side. It also has the groove and a long section without threads (unlike the passenger's side).

Thanks for the replies so far!

Sometimes they are just hard to get off. I've changed my fair share of axles.

 

[IanH]

x2
try putting some rust removing fluid on it.
When you have the nut off the axle may also be rusted in the hub, so its a good idea to start soaking as soon as you can get to it.
The passenger side is worse for this than the drivers, and also check your wheel bearing !!!

 

[IanH]

BTW i use a 3/4 socket set for this, (torque spec is > 150 ft lbs) and a big gas pipe !!!

 

[K3l3v]

Roger that. I first tried to break the nut loose after soaking periodically with WD-40 for 24+ hours. Have a 1/2" drive 32mm deep-well socket with a 1/2" drive 18" breaker bar. Bought a 4' piece of gas pipe - still nothing. Bought a propane torch, and heated the nut until the WD-40 started cooking off - that's when the passenger's side nut broke loose - with a little persuasion from a 2lb mini-sledge.

 

[vrefron]

Roger that. I first tried to break the nut loose after soaking periodically with WD-40 for 24+ hours. Have a 1/2" drive 32mm deep-well socket with a 1/2" drive 18" breaker bar. Bought a 4' piece of gas pipe - still nothing. Bought a propane torch, and heated the nut until the WD-40 started cooking off - that's when the passenger's side nut broke loose - with a little persuasion from a 2lb mini-sledge.

That's why I don't work on my cars at home. That opearation you described took 2+ days. With air and an acetylene rig, it's a 5 minute job. I'm not shit-talking; don't get me wrong. It's just that I like being equipped to handle a headache. Sometimes, time is worth more than money.

 

[K3l3v]

Success!

Thanks again for all the replies and advice!

vrefon: Roger that. But, (with apologies to Mr. Rumsfeld) "...you don't repair your car in the shop you want, you repair your car in the shop you have." When I go active (in five months), I'll normally have access to a shop. Not so much right now - more time than $ at the moment.

BTW, thanks for all the replies. Something someone said on one of the other posts sparked my curiosity. Nut is now free.

Final solution:
1. Let nut soak in WD-40 for a couple of days.
2. Heated nut until WD-40 just started to cook off.
3. Used prybar to prop hub.
4. Had lovely assistant (wife) step on brake.
5. Used 4' gas pipe cheater-bar on end of breaker-bar.
6. Applied torque to gas pipe/breaker bar assembly until breaker bar just started to bend.
7. Applied "love tap" to breaker-bar just out from socket.
8. Beamed as nut broke loose!

Note: Step four was the only change from what I had been doing.