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Grind and Dust

2.5K views 24 replies 4 participants last post by  kellen_wynn  
#1 ·
Yeah I know my car is falling apart!

This past month I noticed that I have more break dust on my driver-side front wheel and thought it was just my ass getting fatter or poor inflation. But recently I've been hearing some grinding/ growling when I break on occasion (usually when the car has sat a long time).

I hope the car can hold out until I swap for silvia 4-pot with matching rotors.
 
#2 ·
kellen_wynn said:
Yeah I know my car is falling apart!

This past month I noticed that I have more break dust on my driver-side front wheel and thought it was just my ass getting fatter or poor inflation. But recently I've been hearing some grinding/ growling when I break on occasion (usually when the car has sat a long time).

I hope the car can hold out until I swap for silvia 4-pot with matching rotors.
You might have a siezed caliper. Check for more wear on that sides pad.
 
#5 ·
Matt93SE said:
that's fairly normal when you have a seized caliper. pull it apart and check it out. rebuild/replace caliper as needed. If ou do it before the grooves get too bad, you can probablly salvage the rotor for long enough to save up for your upgrade.
Or just take off the front brakes all together and just use the flinstones method. :thumbup:
 
#6 ·
Bad news. The some of the front and rear calipers have froze up. The shop is talking 250 for the front and 500 for the back. I'm thinking fuck that! This car is my daily driver but I cant justify paying that much for parts I'm going to replace anyways. I think I'm going to go to a junkyard a pull some used calipers.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Looks like I'm forced to upgrade my brakes early. I bought some 4 pot Silvia calipers. I wonder if they take 240sx pads or do they need diffrent pads. Where can I find rotors that will fit those calipers? And will the 240sx lines fit?

I think I can use 300zx TT brake pads and rotors but not sure about the lines.
 
#8 ·
I just thought about something, after the fact that I bought the 4-pot caliper. Does it matter if its ABS calipers or not? Or would I just get some ABS pads and rotors to match.

My car is non ABS now but I not sure about the silvia 4-pots I just bought. How can I find out?
 
#9 ·
Well it seems that those model of calipers didn't matter if it was ABS because their was no difference.

Almost ready here is what I need or got:

Silvia 30mm iron 4-p caliper
4X 30mm caliper pad pins
2X Pin clip
2X 30mm spring clip

Hawk HPS F/R pads and shims

2X Front 30mm cross drilled vented rotors

2X Refurbished OEM 240SX rear calipers

Russel SS brake lines

anything I'm missing? Anything I should be prepared for?
 
#10 ·
:thumbup:
kellen_wynn said:
Well it seems that those model of calipers didn't matter if it was ABS because their was no difference.

Almost ready here is what I need or got:

Silvia 30mm iron 4-p caliper
4X 30mm caliper pad pins
2X Pin clip
2X 30mm spring clip

Hawk HPS F/R pads and shims

2X Front 30mm cross drilled vented rotors

2X Refurbished OEM 240SX rear calipers

Russel SS brake lines

anything I'm missing? Anything I should be prepared for?

Git R Dun :thumbup:
 
#12 ·
I found out what was causing my caliper to seize up. It wasn't the piston it was the main pin to sliding portion also known as caliper bolt pin. Normally it would slide in and out but mine are stuck. Here is what I'm talking about:
Bolt pin kit

Image
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It's replaceable but soon I will have the 4-pots.
 
#13 ·
kellen_wynn said:
I found out what was causing my caliper to seize up. It wasn't the piston it was the main pin to sliding portion also known as caliper bolt pin. Normally it would slide in and out but mine are stuck. Here is what I'm talking about:
Bolt pin kit

Image
[/URL][/IMG]

It's replaceable but soon I will have the 4-pots.
I always run them on a whizzer wheel any time I replace brake pads. Also put antiseize on the slider as well to lube it and avoid the seizing.
 
#14 ·
Yeah I Cleaned them up and lubed them real good. Now it works like a charm! Can you believe Firestone tried to charge me $250 to replace the front calipers?
 
#15 ·
Here is the verdict of my OEM front brakes. #1 Firestone is gay! The only thing wrong was the driver side front caliper bolt pin was not sliding, causing the piston to only push the top side of the pad thus the rotor wear, grinding, and dust. I cleaned and lube the pin, slapped on new pads and shims, had the rotr resurfaced(Thanks Mike!) and now it's all gravy baby!

When I get my 4-pot I'll let you all know how that goes.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I'm having trouble selecting a brake fluid. What is the best glycol based fluid with the highest WET boiling point? Can I run polyglycol?
 
#18 ·
kellen_wynn said:
Griding noise is back. Maybe the piston is seized? Doesn't matter because my 4-pots are on the way.
Actually the noise is gone for good. I think it was just me being paranoid.

My calipers arrived with an unexpected suprise. I also got 300zx rear calipers too. I wonder if its worth the effort though? For now I'll just use the front.
 
#19 ·
Why cant I find any high performance brake fluid? It seems all the stores carry the same junk like prestone or vavoline. I'm looking for Castrol or better. Do I have to order it online or what? My town sucks balls! :balls:
 
#20 · (Edited)
kellen_wynn said:
Why cant I find any high performance brake fluid? It seems all the stores carry the same junk like prestone or vavoline. I'm looking for Castrol or better. Do I have to order it online or what? My town sucks balls! :balls:
Just out of curiosity, what's wrong with ordering brake fluid online? There's always a better selection online, and it's hard to find a good deal on good brake fluid at your local auto parts store.

BTW, most of your usual auto parts places won't carry anything better than Castrol LMA. If you absolutely must get high performance brake fluid offline, head to the nearest race prep shop/race supply store (the kind that does corner weighting and/or sells Snell SA2005 helmets). They usually stock at least one brand of "race" performance brake fluid.
 
#21 ·
kellen_wynn said:
Why cant I find any high performance brake fluid? It seems all the stores carry the same junk like prestone or vavoline. I'm looking for Castrol or better. Do I have to order it online or what? My town sucks balls! :balls:
I sell ATE super blue. I use it in all of my cars and love it. We have used it in customers Porsches forever. Let me know and I'll ship it to you.
 
#22 ·
Thanks for the fluid answers. I found a shop that sells some good stuff. Dotseth's

I finally got my calipers. Does anyone know how to get the caliper pin clip off without bending it all to hell? Are you just supposed to replace it?



My hardware kit didn't include the clip.
 
#23 ·
I just dealt with the bent clip. Thanks for the help. ;)

Now a question about mounting the caliper: What size bolt do you use? I dont think the 240 caliper bolt will work and my 300zx caliper didn't come with any. Size, depth, pitch? 12mm 1.25X????
 
#24 ·
yeah, it's a 12mm x 1.25mm. I'm not sure on the length since I've never done a direct bolt on for a 240. I custom build all my brakes.

anyway, the valvoline brake fluid is good stuff. it has a higher dry boiling point than the Castrol LMA.. don't worry about wet boiling point. if you're doing this much with your brakes, then you should be bleeding the system every 6 months anyway, so the wet boiling point is moot. go by dry boiling point and buy valvoline synpower, ford heavy-duty, or ATE blue/yellow... they're all very affordable fluids and have a high boiling point.
 
#25 ·
I wish I knew the length because I want it to fit right. I have to disagree about the fluid though. As a daily driver wet boiling point is the most important.