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Discussion Starter #21
Ok, the car is running. Not well enough to smog, but well enough to drive it home from the dealer. $341 and a new IAC later, it runs, however just as I confirmed myself, the timing is all over the place. They have the dist. adjustment as far as it can go and the best they could get is TDC. They said I need a new timing chain, however they said I might as well get a new engine because of all the mileage on it. They wanted $9xx for parts and over a grand for labor. Needless to say I drove it home b/c now that I know what's wrong I can fix it myself. I guess it helps to have a $8k diagnostic computer to do the work for you. For the hell of it, I may bolt on the original dist. and adjust it similarly and see if it works. If it does, then I may be able to get a refund on the dist., although I doubt it.

I did some searching and it looks like I am going to have a lot of fun with the timing chain. Forgive the rant, and I know that the chain is supposed to live the life of the vehicle, but give me a break, how many f'n pieces do you need to take off just to get to the damn timing chain? Whoever thought that one should pull the head to change a timing chain should have their BSME revoked and placed in a more suitable job such as a wal*mart greeter. /rant

Anyways, I see that others have accomplished it without pulling the head, so I am going to give it a shot. I won't have time to get to it until this or next weekend though, but I am looking forward to the fight for the crank pulley bolt (I have an auto). I changed the timing belt on my honda right before it was stolen, that also had an extra fun crank bolt. Needless to say 525ft/lbs of air impact wrench did nada. In the end I had to put all of my weight on a 4' pipe and hold the engine from slipping the clutch by jaming a screwdriver into the pressure plate.
 

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Mofo
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2,225 Posts
The crank pulley bolt wasnt that hard to get off of bolth of my cars. Just took a good size breaker bar, and a skinny flat head screwdriver.
 

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Destroyer of worlds.
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wow....that does sound fun! i love jumping on bars to loosen bolts, so fun. last time i did it was for an axel bolt with about 250 ft/lbs of torque on it. (dont worry, i applied 900 ft/lbs to get it off lol).

i think you should try readjusting the timing chain before you buy a replacement(the dealer said it was bad because they wanted you to pay them to put a new one on). it probably just skipped a tooth here and there over the years, and will probablly adjust to stock setting without trouble.

its worth a try at least right?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I hate this car

Ok, well $300 worth of parts and probably 40 hours of labor lator, I have dumped the following into the car:

- new upper and lower timing chain
- new guides & tensioners
- new water pump
- craploads of sllicone sealant and gaskets
- new oil filter
- oil (duh)
- new coolant (duh duh)

I finished working on it, and she started right up. Seemed to run pretty good, but alas a few moments later started running like sh*t again. I got pissed and took the car around the block twice, hitting 6000 rpm's quite a few times, even though the engine was missing a little. When I got back I checked under the hood and yep, the catalytic converter was glowing red hot again.

so.


1. We know we are getting spark
2. We know we are getting fuel
3. We now know the valve timing is correct
4. We *hope* the distributor is good, since it is new
5. Unplugging the new IAC didn't do a whole lot
6. Chainging the ignition timing on the distributor only made it run worse
7. unpluggin the maf didn't do to much either.
8. unplugging the coolant temp sensor didn't do too much

The timing is all over the place as the engine tries to idle. It goes between 500 to 1000 RPM in a sinusoidal pattern, which also f's with the ignition timing.

Any ideas (Other than blowing up the car?) What else could control timing other than the dist? Is the ECU invloved with timing AT ALL? Does it sound like my ECU is retarted? Any other sensors to mess around with?

If there is one good thing, atleast the bish ain;t leaking oil anymore.
 

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This is a very long shot...

I have a nissan micra cg10de - When I disconnect the throttle body coolant pipes I get a similar idle problem to you. The revs go up and down and will not settle.

Probably not your problem - but worth a look perhaps if your car has similar functions (I dont know how idle is controlled according to engine temp on your cars).. Its something to do with the thermowax element on mine...
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Just wanted to say I got it running good now. Thanks to all the help in this thread along with my other thread. Turned out the f'n NEW distributor from autozone was bad, not giving me enough room to properly time it. Of course I find this now after dropping about $1k into other crap, along with the *fun* of doing a timing chain, however on the bright side, it's done, and it doesn't piss out oil all over the ground like it used to. :cool:
 

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Mofo
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Sweet, glad to hear you finally got her running the right way. Atleast now you know the engine will run for another 150,000, with out and big problems.
 

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2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
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Nostrodomas said:
The crank pulley bolt wasnt that hard to get off of bolth of my cars. Just took a good size breaker bar, and a skinny flat head screwdriver.
Just put the breaker bar against something solid and tap the starter. Works on all the cars I have had !!!
 

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Nostrodomas said:
Tap the starter to get the crank pulley bolt off, please enlighten me? .....lol
That was the terminology used in the thread here. Turn key to start in a short burst or "tap"
I have used this since working on my first car, I don't remember who told me, maybe my father. It works, you don't need an impact wrench, don't need to jamb the flywheel, just brace the pry bar against something solid, the ground will do, and turn engine with the starter.
 

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It may not be important for your situation, but anyone else trying this should pull the fuel pump fuse and run the engine out of gas before doing this, just to be safe.
 

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If you are running that rich, then the ECU is telling the injectors to spray wide open, which usually is an MAF bad or the TPS on the throttle body could be bad, telling the wrong readings. When you peg the throttle at WOT, the TPS senses WOT, it makes the ECU say, Closed loop and you have a rich condition along with the timing being advanced. I Would also look at the TPS readings and make sure that is functioning OK also, the manual says how to check that. Starting sometimes the Crank Angle sensor can be the culprit.
1. Look at all connections, frayed wiring, etc.
1. look at MAF
2. Look at TPS sensor on throttle body
3. Look at Good Coil
4. Look into a good ECU that is known to work.
Chris 92 classic
 

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Mofo
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sunnysentra said:
If you are running that rich, then the ECU is telling the injectors to spray wide open, which usually is an MAF bad or the TPS on the throttle body could be bad, telling the wrong readings. When you peg the throttle at WOT, the TPS senses WOT, it makes the ECU say, Closed loop and you have a rich condition along with the timing being advanced. I Would also look at the TPS readings and make sure that is functioning OK also, the manual says how to check that. Starting sometimes the Crank Angle sensor can be the culprit.
1. Look at all connections, frayed wiring, etc.
1. look at MAF
2. Look at TPS sensor on throttle body
3. Look at Good Coil
4. Look into a good ECU that is known to work.
Chris 92 classic
He already found out it was his distributor. But this will help with other doing a search.
 

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I see. Was it the crank angle sensor that is built into it? That will reak havoc.

Chris 92 classic
 

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HELP MY CAR IS UNSTABLE

HELLO
EXCUSE MY ENGLISH I AM FROM VENEZUELA

I HAVE A SENTRA B14 MEXICAN MODEL .

The MOTOR ITS UNSTABLE IN LOW REVOLUTIONS And DOES NOT HAVE MUCH POWER.
The AUTOMATIC GEAR BOX WHEN CHANGE To REVERSE THE CAR DONT MOVE I THINK IT SLIDES

WHAT I DO

PD. IF YOU NOW RESPOND IN SPANISH ITS BETHER
 

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i have a 99 sentra ga16de no spark and tc said idle malfunction have power going to coil checked resistance on coil the secondary check was kind of jumpy this seems like a common problem help
 
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