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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got an '89 Sentra 2door i got from my neighbor for $50....it needed a head gasket, i had the head checked, everythings flat/good. i did the fix, and it fires right up, but when you push on the gas, it revs up to about 1200, then acts like a rev limiter has kicked in and it just goes vroom vroom vroom, up to 1200ish (i'm guessing on RPM) and back down, very quick vroom vroom noises ;-)

any suggestions? When i removed he distributor cap (during repairs) i tore one of the little rubber inserts, does the base of the dist. need to be sealed, to create a vacuum of sorts for timing advance? i've thrown the timing light on it, and it's spot on. any help?

thanks from a noob to the nissan world!
 

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Wise Cracker
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I've got an '89 Sentra 2door i got from my neighbor for $50....it needed a head gasket, i had the head checked, everythings flat/good. i did the fix, and it fires right up, but when you push on the gas, it revs up to about 1200, then acts like a rev limiter has kicked in and it just goes vroom vroom vroom, up to 1200ish (i'm guessing on RPM) and back down, very quick vroom vroom noises ;-)

any suggestions? When i removed he distributor cap (during repairs) i tore one of the little rubber inserts, does the base of the dist. need to be sealed, to create a vacuum of sorts for timing advance? i've thrown the timing light on it, and it's spot on. any help?

thanks from a noob to the nissan world!
Does the B12 have a MAF? If so then that is the likely culprit. Otherwise it is a timing issue, replace the dizzy if possible.
 

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wasn't 89 the last of the carb / throttle body injection systems? Think it depended on model.
If it doesn't have a MAF The distributor and coil are high probability of being the problem.
If it does then it may be in Limp home mode, which limits the RPM to avoid damage to the engine. Try checking the plugs on the sensors and MAF.
 

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how about pulling the engine codes off the ecu under the passenger seat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
how about pulling the engine codes off the ecu under the passenger seat.
Good thinking, but i'd have to get it somewhere with a code reader (autozone) or buy a reader (not happening).

Um....i'll check all the electrical connections...

it's not a rev limiter (limp mode) cause you can work the throttle and get it to rev up....but if you just press the throttle to a constant spot, it starts this throbbing situation i've described.

thanks for the info so far!
 

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I had the same thing on my old ga14s it was the dissy cap so If i were you I would check if there is a big enough spark at the plugs and also check the plugcables for wear. Also when its dark lift the hood and if you see sparks flying from leed to leed or leed to block replace them.

is it a carbed ga16s or a ga16i?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I had the same thing on my old ga14s it was the dissy cap so If i were you I would check if there is a big enough spark at the plugs and also check the plugcables for wear. Also when its dark lift the hood and if you see sparks flying from leed to leed or leed to block replace them.

is it a carbed ga16s or a ga16i?
Huh....i believe it's a GA16I
 

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yeah your defenetly are going to want to check your leads and the distibrutor cap also check if the dash pod on the dissy work that controls your ignition advance. Check for leaks in the vacume lines too.
 

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thats the great thing about your nissan, you can read the codes your self with just a simple screw driver. get to where you can see the ecu and turn the dial clockwise untill you see the red and green led's light up. then turn it back counter-clockwise. make sure the key is in the "on" position of course. if they blink one together, that means its in mode 1. 2 times for mode 2 and so on. you need to be in mode 3 to check for the engine codes. let the ecu led's blink to tell you what sensor might be bad or not getting a good connection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thats the great thing about your nissan, you can read the codes your self with just a simple screw driver. get to where you can see the ecu and turn the dial clockwise untill you see the red and green led's light up. then turn it back counter-clockwise. make sure the key is in the "on" position of course. if they blink one together, that means its in mode 1. 2 times for mode 2 and so on. you need to be in mode 3 to check for the engine codes. let the ecu led's blink to tell you what sensor might be bad or not getting a good connection.

Awesome! thanks for the tip! i had no idea.

Last weekend i pulled the MAF plug, and it was all kinds of corroded, so i cleaned it up, ran a lot better, put a new cap and rotor on, runs great! Thanks again for all your help!
 
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