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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 03 Sentra Spec V and the tach started bouncing all over the place the other day + once in a while the car would stumble for a split second on acceleration.

Put a code scanner on it and it had a soft code for the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor). I replaced it and it seems fine after several days now.

Ps. I do have about 138K miles on the car. I love this car.

Just thought someone else may have the same symptoms and could use the info.

Slimbob
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I called the Nissan 800 # and checked for recalls on my VIN. They mentioned the only two I had done:

The exhaust shield and the re-programming.

Slimbob
 

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The "re-programming" is a band-aid fix for the CPS issue that Nissan issues. Most that get the so-called "re-programming" done have idle issues thereafter. I, presonally, really don't like taking my car to a dealer unless it's to pick up parts or something of that nature. My CPS crapped out also back in december. Changed the sensor just like you did and haven't had any issues since.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Code 0335 (CPS) again after 3 months

Well the car ran good for 3 months and the other day it started to stumble again during acceleration or stalling if it sat idling for a while. No SES light.

3 days later SES light shows up.

Pedal Dance results in code 0335 CPS. I replaced the sensor with a nissan part in July. Is it likely to be bad again? Are they selling inferior parts? Does someone know of an aftermarket part that is better?

Thanks in advance,
Slimbob
'03 Spev V
145K miles
No mods (Stock)
2 recalls performed (reprogram and CAT)
 

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The newer ones have a metal shank while the older ones have a plastic shank. Which one did you have prior to the code throwing the second time?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Don't know

Saint,
I do not know which one I used to replace the original, but they were different. The plug installed exactly backwards. I believe it had 3 prongs.

New development:
Last night I got home after dark. When I opened my door the dome light came on (normal) I turned off the ignition and all lights went dead. I couldne't start the car. No dash lights, nothing. I wiggled the ignition switch thinking maybe it was intermittent. Nothing. I popped the hood and got out to open the hood. The headlights and dome lights came back on before I could get to the front of the car.

The clock and radio werwe reset to original like removing a battery cable.
Car started, everything worked as usual except the radio stations and time.

Drove to work today. No problems.

What the @$&#?

Help,
Slimbob
 

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Saint,
I do not know which one I used to replace the original, but they were different. The plug installed exactly backwards. I believe it had 3 prongs.

New development:
Last night I got home after dark. When I opened my door the dome light came on (normal) I turned off the ignition and all lights went dead. I couldne't start the car. No dash lights, nothing. I wiggled the ignition switch thinking maybe it was intermittent. Nothing. I popped the hood and got out to open the hood. The headlights and dome lights came back on before I could get to the front of the car.

The clock and radio werwe reset to original like removing a battery cable.
Car started, everything worked as usual except the radio stations and time.

Drove to work today. No problems.

What the @$&#?

Help,
Slimbob
Seems like there's a charging system issue now. IIRC you can get a charging/system system check @ Autozone. Not sure if it costs anything. I know for sure Pepboys does the charging system check for ~$15. Checks the alternator and battery. Definitely sounds like an intermittant problem. Before hand I'd check for any loose connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You are right!

The loss of power is from the cheap original battery clamp on the negative terminal. I'll replace that tonight and then we will see if the Crank Sensor keeps showing up or if the car dies when idling.

I wonder if the charging system is robust enought to support the car running with out a battery. Possibly the stalls happen wwhen the cooling fan or AC fan comes on and the negative terminal is not solid. I have been using the defrosters in the morning to clear the frost on winshield and back window.

That is a pretty good load.

We'll see,
Slimbob
 

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The loss of power is from the cheap original battery clamp on the negative terminal. I'll replace that tonight and then we will see if the Crank Sensor keeps showing up or if the car dies when idling.

I wonder if the charging system is robust enought to support the car running with out a battery. Possibly the stalls happen wwhen the cooling fan or AC fan comes on and the negative terminal is not solid. I have been using the defrosters in the morning to clear the frost on winshield and back window.

That is a pretty good load.

We'll see,
Slimbob
I've had my OEM battery crap out on my before. You won't get very far w/o the battery once started.
 
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