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Fuel Mileage

1914 Views 10 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  VStar650CL
Hi Folks;
Wondering what people are experiencing for fuel mileage with the Rogue? I purchased an SV All wheel drive model, overall, I'm very happy with it but the mileage seems to really fluctuate.
In city it is anywhere from 10.1 to 20.litres /1ookm. I realize that warming it up in the winter costs more fuel but with my driving not changing I shouldn't see that much of a range.

Furthermore, I don't understand the economy fuel report that comes up when you shut the vehicle off. Is that based on what you've just driven?

Should I try resetting the fuel gauge?

Regards,
George T
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Hi Folks;
Wondering what people are experiencing for fuel mileage with the Rogue? I purchased an SV All wheel drive model, overall, I'm very happy with it but the mileage seems to really fluctuate.
In city it is anywhere from 10.1 to 20.litres /1ookm. I realize that warming it up in the winter costs more fuel but with my driving not changing I shouldn't see that much of a range.

Furthermore, I don't understand the economy fuel report that comes up when you shut the vehicle off. Is that based on what you've just driven?

Should I try resetting the fuel gauge?

Regards,
George T
My overall average mileage over the first year driving ( about 8000 kms) is 8 litres/100 km. Best one trip highway was 6.3. Up until late fall the average mileage was actually under that but since the onset of the really cold winter weather it has risen marginally from around 7.8 to the current 8.. To answer one of your questions.. yes the economy fuel report you see is the mileage for that particular trip. One suggestion I would make is to not warm up the vehicle for a long time. These new vehicles don't need it and all you are doing is wasting your money. Run it for a minute and drive away. It will warm up faster just driving at a moderate speed. City mileage will be affected by how much stop and go you do. You can sit idling a long time in heavy city traffic. In my mind city driving is not a good indicator of gas mileage but each to their own.
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My overall average mileage over the first year driving ( about 8000 kms) is 8 litres/100 km. Best one trip highway was 6.3. Up until late fall the average mileage was actually under that but since the onset of the really cold winter weather it has risen marginally from around 7.8 to the current 8.. To answer one of your questions.. yes the economy fuel report you see is the mileage for that particular trip. One suggestion I would make is to not warm up the vehicle for a long time. These new vehicles don't need it and all you are doing is wasting your money. Run it for a minute and drive away. It will warm up faster just driving at a moderate speed. City mileage will be affected by how much stop and go you do. You can sit idling a long time in heavy city traffic. In my mind city driving is not a good indicator of gas mileage but each to their own.
one of the other people on this forum suggested that the CVT is the likely suspect during cold drives, I have noticed a 2500 to 3000 rev during cold drives then within 10 minutes of driving it drops below 2000rpm. Have you noticed this?
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one of the other people on this forum suggested that the CVT is the likely suspect during cold drives, I have noticed a 2500 to 3000 rev during cold drives then within 10 minutes of driving it drops below 2000rpm. Have you noticed this?
Can't say I have even looked at it but combine cold weather with city driving and you don't come out smiling. I highly doubt that the CVT has anything to do with it but I am no mechanic.
As I have n
one of the other people on this forum suggested that the CVT is the likely suspect during cold drives, I have noticed a 2500 to 3000 rev during cold drives then within 10 minutes of driving it drops below 2000rpm. Have you noticed this?
Guilty….

the CVT will run at higher revs until it is warm, and it only warms when driving - search the forum or even just google it, and you will find it is a common safety feature in just about every CVT (Honda, Nissan, Subaru, etc)

my average is 10L per 100kms, with a low of 6.3L per 100kms on one Long trip……my average is low, as the majority of my weekly driving (Mon-Fri) is really short trips of 5-10kms or less to take my dog out!
one of the other people on this forum suggested that the CVT is the likely suspect during cold drives, I have noticed a 2500 to 3000 rev during cold drives then within 10 minutes of driving it drops below 2000rpm. Have you noticed this?
There are two reasons why engines in cars with an A/T or a CVT run on the road at a higher rpm when cold during the first few miles.
1 - At very cold temperatures the tranny fluid is fairly thick so the higher rpm make the fluid pump push the fluid through the valve body, the clutch pacs (A/T), cones/chain (CVT) at a higher rate to provide the proper lubrication for safe operation. Once the temperature sensor registers a certain minimum temperature, the engine rpms will drop down to normal; the TCM performs this function.
2 - During very cold temperatures, the higher rpm running on the road will heat up the catalytic convertor quicker thus reducing emissions sooner.

If you notice that on hot summer days, you generally don't have the cold engine running at the higher rpms on the road during the first few miles.
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one of the other people on this forum suggested that the CVT is the likely suspect during cold drives, I have noticed a 2500 to 3000 rev during cold drives then within 10 minutes of driving it drops below 2000rpm. Have you noticed this?
I've noticed this too, thought I had a cvt problem, probably not tho. I figure that thing is full of fluid that more than likely gets thick in the cold, the movement must thin it out after 10 minutes
I've noticed this too, thought I had a cvt problem, probably not tho. I figure that thing is full of fluid that more than likely gets thick in the cold, the movement must thin it out after 10 minutes
Yep, that's the reason why the system gives you that higher rpm during cold starts.
Yep, that's the reason why the system gives you that higher rpm during cold starts.
I been trying different things like using the paddles and shifting manually keeping the rpms below 2500. It does seem to help. My conclusion is -10 celius seems to be a threshold, anything warmer and mileage is close to the rated 9-12 L/100km anything below and the mileage fluctuates wildly. Earlier this week I went on short trip, a total of 216km. Parked in my driveway the gas gauge read just a notch above half with a read out of 317km of driving left on the tank. The combined mileage 17.7lites, 9.2 l going there and 8.5 coming back. Yet with a 55 litre tank I should have used around 25 litres according to the gauge. Not to mention 317km would give me a total range of 634km which I've never seen anything close to that.

Any thoughts on my observations?
So, yesterday I drove to and back, to Steveston from the Maple Ridge area, and today out to Harrison Mills and back…got 6.1L per 100km on my eco report for yesterday and 6.3L per 100km today….both trips allow for cruise control use, and eco mode, steady 100kph on the freeway, with some 50-70kph mixed in….my DTE showed 795kms at one point…….so 40+ mpg, that ain’t bad!
My conclusion is -10 celius seems to be a threshold, anything warmer and mileage is close to the rated 9-12 L/100km anything below and the mileage fluctuates wildly.
It isn't all the CVT, most injected vehicles with cold air intakes (which all Nissans have) naturally use more fuel in colder air. Nothing has a conventional style choke these days and very few vehicles have intake heaters or manifold stoves, so the ECM's normal response to colder air is a richer mixture. Forgive the mpg and Fahrenheit, I'm American, but our Altimas both get 2~4 mpg less on the highway in winter than summer, and percentage-wise the difference is even more pronounced in city driving. If you have Torque Pro or something else that will let you watch the injector pulse width versus the IAT sensor in realtime, you can watch the difference in action. When it gets really cold you'll see an enormous difference, so much so that "dry shot" nitrous systems can actually use the IAT to add fuel to the mixture just by dumping the -128F NOx into the intake ahead of the IAT and MAF.
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