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Help. I need to know where I can find the wire harness for the fog lights. I have the new fog lights for my truck but I do not have the wire harness for them to plug into. If it is there I can not find it. If any one knows the part number that would be great.

I have a 02 Frontier Crew Cab XE V6 3.3l

Tan Frontier. :fluffy:
 

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The XE needs the Exterior PKG to have the wire Loom in it.
Find a local yard that has either the SE or XE( with lights ) 02 - 04 and you will find the looms.
 

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spec240sx said:
The XE needs the Exterior PKG to have the wire Loom in it.
Find a local yard that has either the SE or XE( with lights ) 02 - 04 and you will find the looms.

I have an exterior PKG. I have all but the fog lights from factory. I now have the lights just not the wire harness. I have gone to the dealter and tried to get a repair wire kit so that I can wire my self, but so far no luck. The parts guy is going to look into it more for me. Junk yards as common as they are, are hard to find in my area. I understand that the xterra and the frontier models use the same wire harness so I am going to keep my eyes open for those two.

Thanks. :fluffy:
 

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you can buy a complete aftermarket harness from companies such as painless wiring, http://www.painlesswiring.com/catalogframe.htm, they make good products but they tend to be expensive, I would just wire the lights myself, it's not hard to do the right way, no matter what always use a relay, no matter what anyone tells you .
 

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ahardb0dy said:
you can buy a complete aftermarket harness from companies such as painless wiring, http://www.painlesswiring.com/catalogframe.htm, they make good products but they tend to be expensive, I would just wire the lights myself, it's not hard to do the right way, no matter what always use a relay, no matter what anyone tells you .
Do I still have to use a relay switch when I wire the lights to a switch running from the battery? The only part of the systems circuitry that it would connect to would be the Battery.

Please tell me if I am wrong, cause lord knows I do not want to do more harm than good.

Thanks. :cheers:
 

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there are 2 ways to wire any accessory, ( lights, fans etc), 1. from 12Volts ( battery) to one pole of a 2 pole switch ( pole is a fancy name for where the wire hooks to the switch) the other pole on the switch to the accessory, and just run the ground wire of the accessory to a good ground. if it's a lighted switch ( switch lights when accessory is on) than there would be 3 poles on the switch one to power, one to the accessory and one to ground . hooking up an acessory this way requires a switch that is rated higher than what you are hooking up ( 20 amp, 30 amp etc), anyway the reason this method of hooking up an accessory is not recommended is because the voltage from the battery has to flow all the way to the switch where ever that is and than back to the accessory, so in your case with lights it would go from the battery to the switch and than back to the lights. Although we know electric travels very very quickly from one point to another you still can get a drop in voltage from the distance the electric has to travel, which can effect the performance of the lights. when you use a relay it goes this way- most common aftermarket relays ( hella, bosch, cheap ones) have 4 terminals on them, and they are assigned numbers, the 4 numbers and where each goes is as follows, #30-12volts ( this gets hooked up directly to your battery thru a fuse), #87- this one goes to your accessory ( lights, etc)-#86- goes to the switch, # 85 goes to a ground,

the reason for the relay is when you turn the switch on it closes a contact in the relay which transfers power from the battery thru the relay and directly to the lights which allows full battery voltage to go to the lights, since the relay requires very little power to close the contact, the switch you use to trigger the relay can be rated very small (2 amp, 3 amp or smaller), which also gives the option of using a very small physically sized switch.

wiring the relay: you mount the relay close to the battery, 12 volts from the battery goes thru a fuse and than to the relay to terminal #30, after mounting the 2 lights you can connect the 2 positive wires ( from the lights) together and than run one wire to the relay to terminal #87, run the ground wires on the lights to a good ground close to each light, ( they can be attached to a ground either together or seperatly), after mounting the switch in the cab one wire from the switch goes to terminal # 86 on the relay, the last terminal on the relay #85 goes to a ground ( normally I run a short peice of wire from #85 and loop it to the mounting screw for the relay). all that is left is to run one wire from the other pole of the switch to a 12 volt source inside the cab, ( usually at the fuse panel, if this wire is hooked to a source that has power with out the key on than the lights would be able to come on with out the key on, not a good idea since if you forget to turn the lights off you will kill the battery, you should try to find a 12 volt source that only has power when the key is in the accessory or "on" position.

sorry this is so long just wanted to give the complete details on proper wiring, if I confused you at all write back and I'll explain it simpler. For a guide to why it's better to use a relay e-mail me
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ahardb0dy said:
there are 2 ways to wire any accessory, ( lights, fans etc), 1. from 12Volts ( battery) to one pole of a 2 pole switch ( pole is a fancy name for where the wire hooks to the switch) the other pole on the switch to the accessory, and just run the ground wire of the accessory to a good ground. if it's a lighted switch ( switch lights when accessory is on) than there would be 3 poles on the switch one to power, one to the accessory and one to ground . hooking up an acessory this way requires a switch that is rated higher than what you are hooking up ( 20 amp, 30 amp etc), anyway the reason this method of hooking up an accessory is not recommended is because the voltage from the battery has to flow all the way to the switch where ever that is and than back to the accessory, so in your case with lights it would go from the battery to the switch and than back to the lights. Although we know electric travels very very quickly from one point to another you still can get a drop in voltage from the distance the electric has to travel, which can effect the performance of the lights. when you use a relay it goes this way- most common aftermarket relays ( hella, bosch, cheap ones) have 4 terminals on them, and they are assigned numbers, the 4 numbers and where each goes is as follows, #30-12volts ( this gets hooked up directly to your battery thru a fuse), #87- this one goes to your accessory ( lights, etc)-#86- goes to the switch, # 85 goes to a ground,

the reason for the relay is when you turn the switch on it closes a contact in the relay which transfers power from the battery thru the relay and directly to the lights which allows full battery voltage to go to the lights, since the relay requires very little power to close the contact, the switch you use to trigger the relay can be rated very small (2 amp, 3 amp or smaller), which also gives the option of using a very small physically sized switch.

wiring the relay: you mount the relay close to the battery, 12 volts from the battery goes thru a fuse and than to the relay to terminal #30, after mounting the 2 lights you can connect the 2 positive wires ( from the lights) together and than run one wire to the relay to terminal #87, run the ground wires on the lights to a good ground close to each light, ( they can be attached to a ground either together or seperatly), after mounting the switch in the cab one wire from the switch goes to terminal # 86 on the relay, the last terminal on the relay #85 goes to a ground ( normally I run a short peice of wire from #85 and loop it to the mounting screw for the relay). all that is left is to run one wire from the other pole of the switch to a 12 volt source inside the cab, ( usually at the fuse panel, if this wire is hooked to a source that has power with out the key on than the lights would be able to come on with out the key on, not a good idea since if you forget to turn the lights off you will kill the battery, you should try to find a 12 volt source that only has power when the key is in the accessory or "on" position.

sorry this is so long just wanted to give the complete details on proper wiring, if I confused you at all write back and I'll explain it simpler. For a guide to why it's better to use a relay e-mail me

After all that I finaly found the factory wire harness that is in-fact on the XE model trucks. It was conviently hidden on me. I was about to start the wire project and was clearing stuff out of the way when I noticed these extra plugs that were not plugged into anything. I procedded to investigate more and they very nicely fit into the lights that I wanted to use. (The factory types) Yea for me right well so far yea.

Now my task is to plug in a relay switch in the switch box in the engien compartment and then find the wire / switch harness that i need to replace my existing head light / turn signal switch with. Then my project will be complete.

I am extreamly sorry that you wrote all of that out and I ended up not using it. At least this time any way. If I go to wire some other lights I will seriously use your ideas. Thanks alot for all your help.

tan.
 

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If you have the Looms, you will have the wiring under the steering console.
A jumper to a panel rocker switch is all that will be required. Nissan has lots of these
switches and as most NISSAN parts and loom pig tails duplicate themselves, you should be able to work it with some ingenuity.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
spec240sx said:
If you have the Looms, you will have the wiring under the steering console.
A jumper to a panel rocker switch is all that will be required. Nissan has lots of these
switches and as most NISSAN parts and loom pig tails duplicate themselves, you should be able to work it with some ingenuity.
I tried that but there is something with the wireing and the relay that you have to use the switch in the stearing console light assymbly. I can get one from the local dealer for $40.00. Thanks for the idea though.

:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Desperate need of electircal help.

:rolleyes:
sorry this is so long just wanted to give the complete details on proper wiring, if I confused you at all write back and I'll explain it simpler. For a guide to why it's better to use a relay e-mail me[/QUOTE]


Ok after all that I have done now, I have the factory style switch on the light colum assymbly, the fuse in the engine compartment (15 Amp according to diagram on box) and a 12 V 30AMP relay switch from Advance Auto that fits where it is supposed to go.

Now the problem is that the 15 amp fuse blows when the switch is turned on. I am not sure if the relay that i got is the right one now. I am going to call the parts department tomorrow and find out what is the right rating. If any one here knows please by all means let me know. This project is starting to become an head ache.

Tan.
 

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I am sure that you need to use a 20 amp fuse for fog lights.

I have a quick question for you.

Does the prewired harness plug directly into the OEM Nissan fog light bulb itself or is there a wire then a female plug?

I did not buy the OEM nissan fog lights, I got a set of Pilot fog lights that do not plug directly into the harness (I should have done some more research). Anyway, I can spend time to find the mating end of that connector (if that connector exists), or I can just buy a whole brand new 2 pole connection. What do you think the best course of action is?
 

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After all that I finaly found the factory wire harness that is in-fact on the XE model trucks. It was conviently hidden on me. I was about to start the wire project and was clearing stuff out of the way when I noticed these extra plugs that were not plugged into anything. I procedded to investigate more and they very nicely fit into the lights that I wanted to use. (The factory types) Yea for me right well so far yea.

Now my task is to plug in a relay switch in the switch box in the engien compartment and then find the wire / switch harness that i need to replace my existing head light / turn signal switch with. Then my project will be complete.

I am extreamly sorry that you wrote all of that out and I ended up not using it. At least this time any way. If I go to wire some other lights I will seriously use your ideas. Thanks alot for all your help.

tan.
Where was the wires located
 
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