[SUPERSTEVE'S200SX]

Hey whats up guys just a question you guys while replacing the wheel studs, did you guys have a pain in the ass getting them in it took me like 2 hours would it of been eaiser to just remove it off the axle or what i know there maching pressed so its not like the rear hub cause i was beating the hell out of it trying to get the stud in and i was worried i may have warped out the hub by hitting it could that be a problem or not :thumbup:

I so posted this on the wrong area before sorry im a dumb ass

 

[Nostrodomas]

You can use washers of the front side of the axle, then put the lugs on and wrench the lug splines into the axle.
If you replace only one, you can pound out the old one, then put the wheel back on with the remaining 3 lug nuts on. Then tighten the lug nut on the loose stud and pull the splines into the axle. Just make sure you go around the block, and come back and tighen them back up again. It tents to wiggle its way back out if its not seated all the way into the axle.

 

[SUPERSTEVE'S200SX]

I know where the marks in the hub are from the last studs i but them through with a hammer but i still have 1 more to get do the little abrassions need to meet up or does it not matter cause its forced in almost the same

 

[ReVerm]

I know where the marks in the hub are from the last studs i but them through with a hammer but i still have 1 more to get do the little abrassions need to meet up or does it not matter cause its forced in almost the same

The markings don't really matter. They're just there so:
1. There's a space where there's no pressure between the hub and the stud so it won't seize as easily.
2. The bumps will press against the wall of the holes in the hub so the studs won't fall out.

That washer method works really well though. Even better than the open-lug method that I've seen before (where you thread an open ended lug all the way down and use that to press in the stud). The washers get bent up but it leaves no marks on the hub.

 

[SUPERSTEVE'S200SX]

The markings don't really matter. They're just there so:
1. There's a space where there's no pressure between the hub and the stud so it won't seize as easily.
2. The bumps will press against the wall of the holes in the hub so the studs won't fall out.

That washer method works really well though. Even better than the open-lug method that I've seen before (where you thread an open ended lug all the way down and use that to press in the stud). The washers get bent up but it leaves no marks on the hub.

what i actually did was take a open ended wrench lodged into place too the lug nut and tightened to the wrench and then i applied pressure to the wrench kind of keeping it tight then litteraly beat the hell out of the back of the hub i was just more worried about off setting the hub then anything but ill try both for the 3rd 1 when i replace it this week