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Like I said earlier, the RKE may be a different issue, it has a separate antenna. The I-Keys actually have three different systems inside, a "garage door" FM frequency for the RKE, a GHz frequency for the short range in-car antennas and door requests, and an RFID system that doesn't need any power and only works in the doghouse. The only thing they all have in common is that the signals all go to and through the BCM by various means. So if it starts by way of manually tripping the starter, you'll at least know the BCM isn't preventing it from running, just not telling the IPDM to spin the starter. That will pretty much be proof positive that the Dorman screwed up the BCM.
 
Ignition on and jump the smaller terminal on the starter (solenoid) to the larger one (battery). If it doesn't crank then the starter is bad. IIRC the Altima hybrid has a regular starter, I think only the later hybrids used the traction motor for starting. I'll check that and get back to you. Even with a hybrid, I'm pretty sure the ECM will start the engine when it sees it spinning, but with no ready light, it may shut down immediately on command from the VCM (hybrid controller). Either way you may need a scan from the dealer or someplace with a high-end shop scanner, because after the BCM permits startup, the VCM is ultimately responsible for "ready" status and deciding when to run the engine. Most ordinary scanners won't read either one of those modules.
 
Well, crap, scratch that. Been a long time since I worked on one of those drivetrains. The MG1 hybrid motor is used as the starter, so there's no way to jump it. I don't think you'll be able to sort this out without a scanner which can read all the systems, including the VCM. Find out why there's no Ready light and you'll get to the bottom of it. Hopefully it isn't a flat HV battery, that's a big can of worms.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Just had the 2nd locksmith come and check it out, all the antenna signals look good and the keys are in fact programmed to the car. They both couldn’t figure out what the issue was. What other things could I narrow it down to? Did the dorman fry the BCM?
 
I doubt the BCM is "fried" or the smithy's tools wouldn't be able to talk to it. But could the Dorman have altered the configuration? Sure.

Is the Dorman still in there? The first thing you need to do is assume it's directly interfering with the car. Remove it and replace it with an emulator and see if the car wakes up. If not, replace it with a junkyard ESCL and see if it wakes up. If that still doesn't do it, you're going to need a whole car scan with either a Nissan Consult3+ or a high-end shop scanner like a Snap-On Solus which can read from all the systems on the car. Without knowing what systems the Dorman may have affected, you won't get answers any other way.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Okay, sounds good. I have an emulator on the way from Ebay so we’ll see how it is when it arrives. I plugged in the old ESCL (the keys would lock/unlock with this plugged in) and I was not getting any key functionality and I couldn’t use the PTS button.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Got the emulator, plugged it in. Same thing as the new ESCL so I may as well return the new ESCL and get my money back. Car goes into “On” on the push to start but all the dash lights are on, no key light on the dashboard though. Should I be able to go to the “on” position without pressing the brake? I also don’t know what to do next.
 
Yah, without pressing the brake, a first press should give you Accessory and a second press should give you On (but not Ready). When you have the brake pressed, does it just cycle Off-On-Off-On without stopping at the Accessory position? If so then it's recognizing the brake switch but not cranking or going Ready for some reason. If it still goes to Acc then it isn't seeing the brake.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Without my foot on the brake, the car goes straight into “On”. Same with my foot on the brake, first press goes instantly to “On”. With the key in the slot, there is a beeping and the yellow key light on the dash, but when I hit the brake the light and sound go away.
 
That's just weird, I'm pretty sure even the hybrids had an Acc position with a 2-press format on the button. It shouldn't be bypassing the Acc position with your foot off the brake. The BCM is in charge of that, so I think you're going to need a scan of the BCM, IPDM, and VCM to get any further with this.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
I messaged Dorman and asked what on board systems their programmer could have damaged, and this is the response they sent me.

OPERATION WHEN INTELLIGENT KEY IS CARRIED
1. When the push-button ignition switch is pressed and brake pedal depressed, the BCM signals the inside key antenna and transmits the request signal to the Intelligent Key.
2. The Intelligent Key receives the request signal and transmits the Intelligent Key ID signal to the BCM via the remote keyless entry receiver.
3. The BCM receives the Intelligent Key ID signal and verifies it with the registered ID.
4. BCM transmits the steering lock unlock signal to steering lock unit and IPDM E/R if the verification results are OK.
5. IPDM E/R turns the steering lock relay ON and supplies power to the steering lock unit.
6. Release of the steering lock will now occur.
7. BCM transmits the power supply stop signal to IPDM E/R when it confirms that the steering lock is in the unlock condition.
8. IPDM E/R turns the steering lock relay OFF and stops power supply to the steering lock unit.
9. BCM turns ACC relay ON and transmits the ignition power supply ON signal to IPDM E/R.
10. IPDM E/R turns the ignition relay ON and starts the ignition power supply.
11. BCM confirms that the shift position is P.
12. BCM transmits the hybrid system start request signal via hard wire to Hybrid Vehicle Control ECU. If BCM judges that the hybrid system start condition is satisfied.
 
There is a steering lock relay and you do need to check for power to the lock. However, the IPDM or BCM will throw codes if that stuff is inoperative, or if the LIN between the BCM and steering lock is down. That's why I said you may need a good scan of all the systems, not just the ones a low-end OBD scanner can address. That will also tell you if the VCM (HEV Controller) is vetoing cranking for some reason. Those systems all need to cooperate and all have different responsibilities. That still won't answer the question that Dorman didn't exactly answer, but at least you'll know what tree to bark up.
 
@VStar650CL any chance you can help me with this? I had the exact same thing happen as berjkara when I towed my car to the dealership they said there were no codes and they weren’t getting an ignition switch signs from the ipdm and assist recommended changing the brake harness and brake light switch to start, they wanted 1200 to do that but I said no and towed the car back to my house and bought the parts from another Nissan dealer close by for 350 and did it myself, I’m just not sure where to go next, I have access to an autel scanner from my neighbor but every time we try to program the keys it just errors and won’t proceed
 
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