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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, cool forum just found it.
I have a '90 240 and I have having one heck of a time figuring out what is wrong with it. The car starts fine and runs pretty well when it is cold, after it warms up it will idle fine but when I step on the gas it will hesitate and stutter a lot. It is getting to the point where it will hardly take off and stay up to speed without the motor loading up (I think it is loading up) and slowing down. If I can get the car in the upper rpm's it is a little better but not much. If I bearly press on the gas it is sort of ok but I don't go fast enough to merge with traffic etc.

I thought that it was an ignition problem, (I am by no means a mechanic) so I have checked the timing like 3 times, replaces the plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor button, ignition coil. All that didn't work so I randomly took the intake tube off the manifold and of coarse the car died.....I put the tube close to the manifold so it could suck a little air and it ran great just sitting there so I replaced the Mass Airflow sensor....that was expensive....well that didn't work either..

I am getting really frustrated with it and need to know what else to try....also my catalytic converter isn't clogged I had it checked. Could it be my fuel pump?? I am just grasping at straws now...I have no clue what else to try.

Oh yeah it is the stock motor...

Thanks in advance,

Rok
 

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You say it ran great when you took the tube off and put it near the intake manifold? This may sound stupid but is the air filter just that dirty? I would check that out and swap it...other than that it does sort of sound like a fuel problem.

If it's studdering I believe (correct me if I'm wrong anyone) that it is running lean, too much air not enough fuel (this obviously cancels out my previous statement but none the less). Not enough fuel could resort from dirty injectors, or a shot fuel pump. These are the things I can think of off the top of my head. My 1992 Jetta which I just traded for another 240 had a fuel injection problem and it ran like sh!t, it studdered, bucked, and backfired like no other...so it sounds like an air/fuel ratio mix-up to me, but I very well may be wrong...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I have checked the filter, it seemed fine. The car runs halfway good when it is cold tho so I don't think that the filter is dirty...I could be wrong and I am gonna replace it tomorrow anyways.

Stupid injectors are like 180.00 a peice....that sucks if they are bad. Could it be a bad O2 sensor?? just grasping here..

Rok
 

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you could change out the o2 sensor but no guarantees there...o2 sensors aren't that expensive if you get the universal ones. The only problem w/ the universal one is that you have to extend the wire to get to the plug (on the ka24de, not sure about the ka24e).
 

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Tarmac Terrorist
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240luvr said:
You say it ran great when you took the tube off and put it near the intake manifold? This may sound stupid but is the air filter just that dirty? I would check that out and swap it...other than that it does sort of sound like a fuel problem.

If it's studdering I believe (correct me if I'm wrong anyone) that it is running lean, too much air not enough fuel (this obviously cancels out my previous statement but none the less). Not enough fuel could resort from dirty injectors, or a shot fuel pump. These are the things I can think of off the top of my head. My 1992 Jetta which I just traded for another 240 had a fuel injection problem and it ran like sh!t, it studdered, bucked, and backfired like no other...so it sounds like an air/fuel ratio mix-up to me, but I very well may be wrong...
Once you check all of the above things, you might want to start looking into vacuums...if there is a vacuum hose missing, or leaking somewhere, that could be your issue and that will cause you to lose power, although it could also be you fuel pump, injectors, or something around the intake manifold, a leak, bad seal, or bad vacuum hose.
Good Luck... :thumbup:
 

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sounds like a fuel prob. can you hear the fuel pump (louder than norm). check the pump and fuel filter. and have the injectors cleaned. make sure the injector o-rings are still ok. mine tore a while back and that will cause all kinds of probs. but it sounds like fuel. let me know whast you find out
 

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KA24DET
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KA injector O-rings

MakiGTP said:
make sure the injector o-rings are still ok. mine tore a while back and that will cause all kinds of probs.
The KA24E/DE engines are notorious for breaking fuel injector O-rings. However, this will be easy to diagnose, becuase the engine will have lower compression if the tear is bad, and fuel might run out around the injector. Definitely check the compression of the engine. It's also possible to test your fuel pump using a voltimeter. I've done this for other cars, but never on a Nissan, so check the FSM. I hope your problem gets resolved! Everyone deserves their 240.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
bridrive55 said:
The KA24E/DE engines are notorious for breaking fuel injector O-rings. However, this will be easy to diagnose, becuase the engine will have lower compression if the tear is bad, and fuel might run out around the injector. Definitely check the compression of the engine. It's also possible to test your fuel pump using a voltimeter. I've done this for other cars, but never on a Nissan, so check the FSM. I hope your problem gets resolved! Everyone deserves their 240.
I'm in the process of getting the injectors cleaned and Orings replaced. My car has been parked for about 2 weeks now and I am getting sick of it. I'm about to the point of throwing a match on it.

I haven't replaced the fuel pump yet, but I did replace the fuel filter....and I got the compression checked. How can I check the fuel pump? I'm just getting tired of throwing money at this POS. I have taken it to like 2 mechanics to no avail. every time I take it somewhere they look at it and are like this is your problem...they are never right.

Any other ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

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First of all, quit throwing all that $ at parts that you don't need. Diagnose the problem by testing stuff until you are pretty sure of something.

If you replaced the fuel filter, it could be a clogged fuel line, a bad pump, vaccuum leak, etc.

Check the pump by making sure there is enough power going to it with a voltmeter, and that it puts out enough pressure (if you needed to you could pull an injector, and have it squirt into a bucket.) THis may sound silly, but it might be a good idea to check your battery ground point on the car, if its corroded or dirty, you may not be getting good spark. Try some injector cleaner in the gas, it might help you out. Good luck.
 

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Rokshumani said:
I'm in the process of getting the injectors cleaned and Orings replaced. My car has been parked for about 2 weeks now and I am getting sick of it. I'm about to the point of throwing a match on it.

I haven't replaced the fuel pump yet, but I did replace the fuel filter....and I got the compression checked. How can I check the fuel pump? I'm just getting tired of throwing money at this POS. I have taken it to like 2 mechanics to no avail. every time I take it somewhere they look at it and are like this is your problem...they are never right.

Any other ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I am having the SAME problem with my 89 240. I think I emailed you about it too.

I replaced my fuel filter, plugs, wires, dist. cap, rotor, O2 sensor, checked the MAF (works), checked my ignition coil (works), changed the fuel pump (upgraded to a Walbro 255), changed the oil, cleaned the intake/throttle body, installed a new ground wire, and changed the catalytic converter. STILL bogging!!

I am going to check the EGR valve next.

Let me know if you figure out the problem. I will do the same.
 

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If you have an aftermarket exhuast, is your tip inside all black? Get your car in for a cleanin service on your injectors, seriously! This isn't the first time I've said something about it. Could be dirty injectors and the o-rings could be shot as well but check your compression as stated previously. NTK O2 sensors are fairly cheap as well but should only need to be replaced MAYBE once a year, I do because I'm anal about having old parts but to each his own. The service will probably take about an afternoon and maybe run you about 100 bucks. But before anything, do a compression test, its the cheapest way to see whats going on, and if your not sure what the results of the compression test mean, put it on here or ask your trusted mechanic.

Another thing too is smooth acceleration. This particular car will actually jump pretty good if you don't slam the gas in but more of a gradual throttle response.

However, if everything checks out, you should know that Nissan has put in a safety precaution. If you slam on the gas at a stand still, do you just sit there for a sec and then start moving? I believe what happens is the timing is knocked back a few degrees temporary, can't tell you why but hey i'm not a nissan engineer! If it really bothers you that much or are that competitive, Jim Wolf ECU's gets rid of this and other things. If that is too expensive, you obviously don't need a new ECU and need to worry about other things, like fixing your car first and then having the fastest car out there! Later
 

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Rokshumani said:
How can I check the fuel pump? I'm just getting tired of throwing money at this POS.
An easy way to test the fuel pump and filter is to disconnect the fuel hose from the top of the fuel filter and insert a long length of spare hose into the top of the fuel filter with the other end draped over the fender going into a catch can placed on the ground. Now turn the ignition key to the run position but DO NOT START THE ENGINE. You should see fuel going into the can at a good rate.

If the fuel test checks out OK, then you may have a vacuum leak in the intake system. To check the intake system for a vacuum leak, attach a vacuum gauge to a full vacuum source. A good place to connect to is the charcoal canister. There should be three hoses connecting the carbon canister. Two of the hoses go to a purge valve that's built into the canister. The second larger hose off the purge valve should be your vacuum line. With the motor fully warmed up, the reading at idle should be 18 - 20 InHg. At 3,000 RPM, it should be 21 InHg.

If readings are under 18 InHg, check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle valve and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah I got your email Prelude Guy, I was waiting to find out if my efforts in futility will pay off. It sounds like you are having the exact problem as me tho....Hope we can figure it out before I go broke...!!!!!

Little240boy, I know that it isn't the timing being retarded on takeoff because this car used to take off like a scalded dog.....and it isn't that I am stomping on the gas when I take off every time, I am 25 and pretty much grown out of that phase, it even stutters and hesitates when I gradually depress the throttle and it makes it almost impossible to get the car up to speed to merge with traffic safely.

Rogoman, thanks for the info. I will definately give that a try to see what is going on. I am running out of things to replace....I have also checked all the vacuum lines (I can find) to make sure that they are hooked up, I will have to check the actual vacuum in the system to see if that is it....

Thanks guys,
keep the ideas comming

Rok
 

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I checked my ignition coil on my friend's 240. His car ran fine with my coil.:(

I see SOOOOO many people having this problem yet no one knows the answer. Now I know why I like Hondas soo much. :thumbup:

I don't want to drop much more money into this car. I was going to swap the motor out for a JDM swap but I bought a house. No spare money laying around. The bills for this car are stacking up. :(
 
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