i think the answer lies in a thread search...... i believe there were SE-R's with auto's, so that would be a perfect match, however i'm betting that it's not the same tranny as a GA16. your gonna need to get a new tranny either way, so i'd say your better off getting the 5spd and just drilling a couple holes for the clutch pedal.
5 speeds have been proven to provide more wheel hp over autos based on the way they are constructed, no matter which make of car.
personally i plan on swappin out my tranny for a 5spd at the same time as a engine swap. might as well, after spending all that money on the engine and nessacary parts anyway! like a new tranny!
Yea there are SE-R auto tranny's, there is a girl i work with that has an SE-R with an auto. I dont know either if the have the same auto tranny but could you just get a new stall converter and a shift kit form level 10 and be set? instead of having to raplace the ga16de tranny.
There is a place here that sells motors without a tranny and Im not sure but i dont think they come w/ a ecu but i know my friend got a motor for his celica for like $500.
But then again buying a new stall converter, a shift kit , and a motor would still be almost the same price as a motor with a 5spd tranny. But then if you are doing the 5spd conversion then you would probly have to buy all the parts like a clutch pedal and what ever else that is needed. I'm not sure what would be best.
whats a matter with learning? i'm not exactly the stick shift pro either, but i'd drive a stick no matter what kind of car it is in a hartbeat! they are so much fun! plus i'm itchin to get all the experience i can grab, my next car will certainally be a stick!
For the price of an engine swap........and new trans....you would be better off with just getting a 200sx with the engine already in place and a 5 speed trans... thnk about it...for about 3 grand more..you got a new car ( well new used car )
The GA16DE and SR20DE trannies are different. A different auto and manual for the GA and a different auto and manual for the SR. Without going into the details for the umpteenth time, PrOxLaMuS is right, a swap to an SR20DE will run you $2K in parts alone and you still won't have 4 wheel discs with bigger fronts, bigger sway bars, 14" wheels, front airdam, fog lamps, SE interior (unless of course you have an SE already, and you have ABS in which case you do have 4 wheel discs, but smaller front calipers, rotors and a different MC.) Not to be a "search nazi" but if you want more info do a search, there's tons of threads discussing what you want to do. It's been done a few times, but is not a very cost effective thing to do.
Here's a few collected thoughts on a typical SR20DET engine install that I was fortunate enough to be a part of. If you plan on doing this cool project hopefully these tips will make your job a little easier.
The actual swap of the engines was pretty straightforward. Disconnect parts A, B, and C to pull old engine, reattach A, B, & C after installing new engine. The hardest part was just figuring out what components/sensors needed to be transfered over and troubleshooting. If you have an FSM and label what you disconnect that will help a whole lot...
This info was based on a Bluebird DET engine installed in my buddy Joe's '96 SE-R. The earlier models, as well as installing a Pulsar GTiR engine, can be a little different.
What to swap:
DE main wiring harness
DE fuel injector wiring harness
DE temperature sensor
DE throttle position sensor
DE air-idle control valve (extend wire)
DE O2 sensor (you will need the O2 sensor adapter nut off the DE exhaust manifold as well)
DE flywheel (if using a DET from an automatic)
DET power steering 90° bend onto DE pump
DE AC bracket
Sentra DE throttle/cruise control cable bracket (for 95+ SE-Rs)
What to fabricate:
Downpipe (3" or 2.5" id)
What to buy:
JWT ECU w/ turbo program (model year specific)
A new clutch and stronger motor mounts will be needed, best to do it now while you have the engine out
What to modify:
You will need to extend the wire for 02 sensor on manifold
Upper flare nut on the master cylinder needs to be ground away a little to clear top mounted IC piping
Crossmember will hit the tranny in one spot, it needs to be dented in a little
Battery moved to trunk or reoriented in engine bay for extra clearance
EGR is capped off (there is no provision for EGR on a DET)
The solenoid for the charcoal canister has one wire and 3 vacuum inputs: 1st. is from intake after MAF, 2nd. is from the top of the canister, and 3rd is left open
When attaching the DE tranny to the DET block, two of the mounting bolts will no longer be used
Right side halfshaft support bearing will only line up w/ 2 bolts, that is okay
For the 95+ it is possible to remove/install an engine while leaving the AC system still sealed up.
The 95+ AC line will be a tight fit but can be pulled back out of the way of the IC piping
The engine was pulled/installed from the top, we didn't even remove the hood. Others have had equal success removing the engine from below.
This should be most of what it takes to get you out the garage. There are things like guages, hood scoop (or MUCH better, a front mount intercooler), cleaned injectors, new EGR hookup, etc. that can be done to improve reliability, power, and emissions. These are important issues so intelligently determine what should be done now and what can be done later.