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Discussion Starter #1
hey, my emergency brake on my 92 ser isn't working (hasn't for a while) anyone know what to do w/ it or have any inkling how the e brake works on this car (so i can avoid taking it to the dealer)

thanks
allan
 

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Hello, i don't have an SE-R and as far as i know they have rear disc brakes instead of drums but they uses a cable also to operate it, have you checked that the cable isn't broken or loose at the handle?
Here at the Haynes repair manual says "The parking brake lever, when properly adjusted should travel up seven to eight clicks on models with rear disc brakes"
"To gain access to the parking brake cable adjuster, remove the center console, loosen or tighten the adjusting nut until the desired travel is attained"
The parking brake cable is attached to a bracket on the caliper by a lock plate in models with rear disc brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks, that's helpful, i didn't know where the parking brake adjustment was. does it say anything about how it looks the rear brakes (like does it manually close the caliper, if it uses a drum on one of the rotors, etc....) thanks for anything you guys have. i guess what sergio said is that it closes the caliper.

allan
 

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simphmerj said:
thanks, that's helpful, i didn't know where the parking brake adjustment was. does it say anything about how it looks the rear brakes (like does it manually close the caliper, if it uses a drum on one of the rotors, etc....) thanks for anything you guys have. i guess what sergio said is that it closes the caliper.

allan
Hi, well it doesn't says how does it works but seems that it manually closes the caliper... check that connection too, it may be loose...

Good luck!
 

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I recently had to replace my emergency brake cables and rear calipers. The ebrake handle would pull all the way up and the brakes wouldnt engage. So I tightened the cable and the ebrake handle wouldnt come up. I yanked on it and the brakes engaged - but when I put the handle down the rear brakes stayed on. Turned out (the car was from Jersey), the rear caliper arms for the ebrake cable had frozen.

In the process, and through time, the cables became overstreched. So I had to replace the whole system. The cables cost about 40 each (3 total) and the rear calipers were somewhere around 120 with core.
It's not too difficult to install if you drop the exhaust and heat shields - some bolts were fused to the studs, so take your time if you want to keep the shields.

All in all - for the age of the car, it was needed. So I can't complain.
 

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Sunny J Reg said:
In the process, and through time, the cables became overstreched. So I had to replace the whole system. The cables cost about 40 each (3 total) and the rear calipers were somewhere around 120 with core.
Jmm, i wonder if that happens to the drum brakes as well... at least the cable since the shoes are moved back into place with some springs... i changed my rear brake shoes last weekend but still need to adjust the parking brake travel.
 

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It certainly is possible - but more likely on the disks.
The ebrake adjustment is easy - made inside the car at the bottom of the handle.
 

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Do you have to remove the center console to get at the adjustment area?

Also, my emergency brake when from working just fine to basically not engaging at all anymore within a couple of weeks. Does this sound like something that could be repaired with an adjustement or is it likely that I might need to replace the cable(s), or is it impossible to tell without first trying the adjustment?

Thanks.
 

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dr_shmass said:
Do you have to remove the center console to get at the adjustment area?

Also, my emergency brake when from working just fine to basically not engaging at all anymore within a couple of weeks. Does this sound like something that could be repaired with an adjustement or is it likely that I might need to replace the cable(s), or is it impossible to tell without first trying the adjustment?

Thanks.
Hi, yes, you have to remove the center console (the plastic that goes all the way back) to adjust the cables if that's the problem, but if it's not engaging at all maybe the cable it's the problem or a very worn shoes.
 

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Thanks for the reply. I don't have drum brakes so it's not shoes. Let me modify my statement by saying it DOES engage, but so weakly that it effectively doesn't do anything. I have a slight incline to my driveway and if I park the Sentra with just the E-brake, it will just slowly roll backwards...

I'll try to adjust this weekend. My main problem with removing the console is that I can't seem get get the shifter head loose!
 

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Jmm, i have read that maybe the cables or rear calipers may be got stuck so the parking brake cant move them... if that's the case probably the caliper cylinder must be resurfaced and rebuild with a new set of seals (both sides) since the parking brake closes the caliper manually on disc brakes.
When i adjusted mine i didn't had to remove anything with the shifter i just removed the plastic cover around the parking brake...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ok well for anyone who cares, one of my calipers had seized so replacing both rear calipers and rotors solved my problem.....now sometimes the ebrake stays stuck on....dammit
 

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My ebrake has been out for a while and I found this thread so i finally decided to fix it myself. I started removing the large plastic piece that encases the emergency brake handle. I removed the 4 screws that hold it into place. i pulled out the shift boot closure so I could remove the plastic piece. The only thing is that it is stuck on there so tight. Did I forget to do something? How the hell do i get it off?
 

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dr_shmass said:
Thanks for the reply. I don't have drum brakes so it's not shoes. Let me modify my statement by saying it DOES engage, but so weakly that it effectively doesn't do anything. I have a slight incline to my driveway and if I park the Sentra with just the E-brake, it will just slowly roll backwards...

I'll try to adjust this weekend. My main problem with removing the console is that I can't seem get get the shifter head loose!
This is a reply to an old message, but maybe it will still help somebody. I suspect this applies to later models, too, but on my 87 (and at least a few years after) the shift knob doesn't need to be removed. Remove the two transverse screws in the kickboard in front of the console. Remove the felt pad from the compartment, the snap applique under the lever and the applique around the gearshif lever. Remove four screws: 2 in the storage compartment and 2 under the lever. The console will slide over the gearshif knob.
 
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