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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Abandoning my "fuel pump" thread to focus the attention on possible electrical problems.

This 95 Maxima...used to run fine, until I had lower control arms and both side CV shafts installed new. After that, I drove it about a mile and it died, wouldn't start. Drug it back to that shop.... they got to it in a few days... the thing fired right up and he drove it about 2 miles and returned to the shop.. never did die.
I came and got it... fired right up, drove it about 10 feet and it died and wouldn't start.

I've had it ever since. Yesterday and today both, it would start right up, run for about 30 seconds, then die. Might start right back up and run for about 5 sec. and die, or won't start at all. Has plenty of fuel pressure while idling...even as it dies... then pressure drops to zero. That makes me think something is fishy electrically... the pump should keep the pressure at 35 even after engine dies.. with key on.

Yesterday, I borrowed a guys GM flavored OBD scan tool. Evidently, it's programmed for GM only, because I never could get it to link up with the OBD system. After setting there messing with it, tinkering with the different menus...the engine wouldn't start after setting there with the key in the run position for 5 minutes.

Today, the engine started right up first try... I have borrowed an "Actron CP9575" code reader/scan tool. Hooked it up to the obd port. It came right to life and I sat there with the key in the on position while I played with it trying to figure out how it worked.
When I tried to start the engine, it wouldn't start... after setting there with the key in the on position.

When that failed.. I took the tool and hooked it up to my 2001 Nissan Frontier...the tool works... I could look at a small number of data points and read the faults... I even cleared them. It was all evap and egr stuff.

Went back up to the shop and hooked the tool back up to Maxima....turned key on... got in to the data section... fooled around there... then tried to start it, no go.

It's as if with the ignition key turned to the "run" position and either with the engine running or not... no more than a minute worth of that and the engine either dies or won't start.

SOmething getting hot and losing connection.... I don't know.

But, anyhow, I made a video of the codes it's thrown... 0505 (idle air control system), 0325 (knock sensor, bk. 1) and 0335 (crankshaft position sensor A circuit malfunction). I haven't rec'd my factory service manual yet.. so i can't look at the cps circuit to see where I should check first... and which sensor is "A"? The "ref" or "pos"... on the flywheel end, or the pulley end of the crank?

Well, the site won't let me insert an MP4 or .AVI type video file, either one...I can't find out what kind it will accept... so, no video of the OBD scan results for you.

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They likely pinched some wires while installing the control arms or pulling the cv axles out. Get it up on stands and start looking for places something may have smacked as it came out with some force.
 

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P0335 is for the POS sensor. It would be P1335 for REF. Joe's suggestion is a good one, since the problem appeared right after an axle repair. It's entirely possible they damaged wiring or even jarred the sensor itself. Hall sensors don't take kindly to impacts of any sort, when they're dropped you're actually supposed to throw them away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
But, things like that don't intermittently fail, I wouldn't think.
They're either good or bad, right?

I'm suspicious it's something else in that circuit... but I do not have a lift and don't feel like laying on the ground on a creeper trying to investigate something I have no idea where to start looking for.. like wiring Loom stuff.
I just got to the shop a few minutes ago, jumped in the car it fired right up I held it at about 2500 rpm.
Played with the scan tool and since I have such a short window of opportunity to look at data that it's displaying.. I was trying to concentrate on the fuel trim numbers..... seems like most of them were saying zero.. but I can't look at them long enough to write them down, because the engine doesn't run long enough for me to even take a video snapshot of it..
And I will reiterate.. I don't think it makes any difference if you turn the key on to run and let it sit there for a minute or start the engine and let it run for 45 seconds or a minute.. the engine is going to either die or won't start after that period of time ... I should be able to narrow it down by those observances....something is getting warm and opening.. maybe a relay of some sort ...

I'm using my post here as a kind of sounding board.. I sit here and spew out all these observances I've made and maybe I'll get it all out in the open, all the stuff that I'm noticing, and somebody might be able to put two and two together and point at the right component that's acting up..
Whatever it is, it's cutting off the ignition, it's cutting off the fuel pump power supply (because the fuel pressure drops as soon as the engine shuts off is what I'm basing that on).
if I go over it in my head enough and talk about it out loud it might finally make sense to somebody.. I don't mind repeating myself over and over and over..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I need to get in the electrical section of the service manual and maybe I can see what shares a circuit with the crank position sensor and the fuel pump.. where are they getting their power?
 

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They intermittently fail all the time actually, with age they can become sensitive to temp changes and pretty much shut the engine down at certain temps, sometimes it's as it warms up, sometimes it's after an hour or more of driving, just depends. As the p0335 is the only code that would cause it to stop running thats where I'd look first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This is just a data from the engine off. I could not act quick enough to get the data to show up and freeze it while the motor was running.
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They likely pinched some wires while installing the control arms or pulling the cv axles out. Get it up on stands and start looking for places something may have smacked as it came out with some force.

They intermittently fail all the time actually, with age they can become sensitive to temp changes and pretty much shut the engine down at certain temps, sometimes it's as it warms up, sometimes it's after an hour or more of driving, just depends. As the p0335 is the only code that would cause it to stop running thats where I'd look first.
But, things like that don't intermittently fail, I wouldn't think.
They're either good or bad, right?
@Oldcivicjoe is right. A common problem with random engine shutdowns, difficult startups, rough running is a marginal or damaged crankshaft position sensor (CKP). Most of the time when this happens, the "check engine light" never comes on; subsequently when performing an ECU code readout, there was no fault code set.
When replacing sensors, always use Nissan OEM parts from a Nissan dealer; aftermarket electronic items generally are not reliable, don't last long, and many times are DOA. The sensors are not very expensive; around $120.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
See if this works..


The engine will run for exactly 60 seconds and then die. It will start right back up one more time then it will die and won't start again.

From the video you can see the fuel pressure remains a 35 lb. (Excuse the foul language, I was trying to get rid of the glare on the fuel pressure gauge and wasn't holding the phone in the right position...it's frustrating...because I know I don't have much time to get all this stuff done.)

What I find odd is that the pressure, after the engine dies, hovers @ 35 lb for a few seconds then drops off to zero as if the fuel pump quit pumping... I figured as long as the key's on, there should be fuel pressure right there at the filter, correct?
Could be that whichever electrical system is faulty turns off ignition plus fuel pump..?

I haven't got the crank position sensor off and checked yet but I have checked the wiring coming to it and the signal and ground and 12 volt power are all correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Well, I thought I was onto something..... but later on I started the engine... wiggled that wire and connector.... nothing happened. Engine didn't even hesitate~ so, that was a red herring. Thought I was actually on to something, lol. But, believe me, I'm gonna try it again later, just to be sure, lol.

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I pulled the crankshaft sensor out. It had metal shavings on it, so I blew them off and cleaned it up good.
Put it all back together and it ran for about a minute and a half, maybe 2 minutes, and died.. no change.

Got in beside the fuse box and swapped the ignition relay for a different one... swapped the fuel pump relay for a different one.. but, since I ran the engine in a few minutes before I did this, it wouldn't run very long....so I'm going to let it get itself together and then I'll try it again to see if the relay swapping made any difference
 

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What I find odd is that the pressure, after the engine dies, hovers @ 35 lb for a few seconds then drops off to zero as if the fuel pump quit pumping... I figured as long as the key's on, there should be fuel pressure right there at the filter, correct?
So the ecu controls the fuel pump relay via grounding the coil to create a magnetic field that pulls the contacts shut, it does this at key on for a set amount of time, to prime the rail and get full pressure for start up, and any time it gets a signal from the cam and crank sensors indicating the engine is running. If the crank sensor signal drops the ecu basically sees this as the engine died and it cuts ground to the relay coil circut to shut the power off, this is a safety feature that reduces possible spillage in the event of a ruptured line, crash, ect. That being said, either your fuel pressure regulator or pump, or a line in the tank is bleeding down pressure, but its not what's causing the shut down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So, had a thought from a friend.. he said to hook up the timing light and let the engine run till it dies...then, crank it and see if the timing light detects any spark signal from the computer.
It didn't.
I am going to break down and buy the crankshaft position sensor for it... I sure hate throwing Parts at it,
This friend told me that the camshaft position sensor controls the firing of the fuel injectors.. the crank position sensor fires the spark plugs so, if it's not getting spark, it might just be that crank position sensor.
 

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But, things like that don't intermittently fail, I wouldn't think.
They're either good or bad, right?

I'm suspicious it's something else in that circuit... but I do not have a lift and don't feel like laying on the ground on a creeper trying to investigate something I have no idea where to start looking for.. like wiring Loom stuff.
I just got to the shop a few minutes ago, jumped in the car it fired right up I held it at about 2500 rpm.
Played with the scan tool and since I have such a short window of opportunity to look at data that it's displaying.. I was trying to concentrate on the fuel trim numbers..... seems like most of them were saying zero.. but I can't look at them long enough to write them down, because the engine doesn't run long enough for me to even take a video snapshot of it..
And I will reiterate.. I don't think it makes any difference if you turn the key on to run and let it sit there for a minute or start the engine and let it run for 45 seconds or a minute.. the engine is going to either die or won't start after that period of time ... I should be able to narrow it down by those observances....something is getting warm and opening.. maybe a relay of some sort ...

I'm using my post here as a kind of sounding board.. I sit here and spew out all these observances I've made and maybe I'll get it all out in the open, all the stuff that I'm noticing, and somebody might be able to put two and two together and point at the right component that's acting up..
Whatever it is, it's cutting off the ignition, it's cutting off the fuel pump power supply (because the fuel pressure drops as soon as the engine shuts off is what I'm basing that on).
if I go over it in my head enough and talk about it out loud it might finally make sense to somebody.. I don't mind repeating myself over and over and over..
Have you considered the possibility that somehow there may be a fault in the security system. Your problem almostsounds like what happens when the security system is set off, it; the car cranks then dies, doesn't crank sometimes, does at other times. Im not saying that is 100% what the problem is but in lots of late 90s and Early 2000s model cars when the security system is set off it will crank ul them die after a couple seconds. The car thinks its being stolen and kills power to the fuel pump. On late 90s/early 00s GM vehicles the Passlock 2 security system is notorious for this happening and if you didn't know better ypu would think you had a bad fuel pump. The reset procedure is to turn the key all the way to on, right before the last turn to start it and leave the key in that on position for exactly 10 min, turn the key back all the way to off, wait 1 full minutes then repeat the.key on for 10 minutes exactly, off for 1, then do it 1 more time, hey on for 10 mind exactly. You should notice, sometime between the 2nd 10 minutes and the 3rd 10 mins the security light stop flashing and that let's you know its reset. Unhooking the battery and leaving it for 25 hours sometimes helps. I typed alm this because believe it or not the same thing works for Maximas, Altimas, Sentras and Pathfinders. Ive actually owned all of those vehicles. I built a 05 Altima QR25DE, an 02 Maxima QR35DE, a 97 Pathfinder QR35RE, and a 94 B13 Sentra Se-R and a 97 B14 Sentra Se-R Spec V. Ive had to do this process twice on my Altima and 3 times on my Maxima
 

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Abandoning my "fuel pump" thread to focus the attention on possible electrical problems.

This 95 Maxima...used to run fine, until I had lower control arms and both side CV shafts installed new. After that, I drove it about a mile and it died, wouldn't start. Drug it back to that shop.... they got to it in a few days... the thing fired right up and he drove it about 2 miles and returned to the shop.. never did die.
I came and got it... fired right up, drove it about 10 feet and it died and wouldn't start.

I've had it ever since. Yesterday and today both, it would start right up, run for about 30 seconds, then die. Might start right back up and run for about 5 sec. and die, or won't start at all. Has plenty of fuel pressure while idling...even as it dies... then pressure drops to zero. That makes me think something is fishy electrically... the pump should keep the pressure at 35 even after engine dies.. with key on.

Yesterday, I borrowed a guys GM flavored OBD scan tool. Evidently, it's programmed for GM only, because I never could get it to link up with the OBD system. After setting there messing with it, tinkering with the different menus...the engine wouldn't start after setting there with the key in the run position for 5 minutes.

Today, the engine started right up first try... I have borrowed an "Actron CP9575" code reader/scan tool. Hooked it up to the obd port. It came right to life and I sat there with the key in the on position while I played with it trying to figure out how it worked.
When I tried to start the engine, it wouldn't start... after setting there with the key in the on position.

When that failed.. I took the tool and hooked it up to my 2001 Nissan Frontier...the tool works... I could look at a small number of data points and read the faults... I even cleared them. It was all evap and egr stuff.

Went back up to the shop and hooked the tool back up to Maxima....turned key on... got in to the data section... fooled around there... then tried to start it, no go.

It's as if with the ignition key turned to the "run" position and either with the engine running or not... no more than a minute worth of that and the engine either dies or won't start.

SOmething getting hot and losing connection.... I don't know.

But, anyhow, I made a video of the codes it's thrown... 0505 (idle air control system), 0325 (knock sensor, bk. 1) and 0335 (crankshaft position sensor A circuit malfunction). I haven't rec'd my factory service manual yet.. so i can't look at the cps circuit to see where I should check first... and which sensor is "A"? The "ref" or "pos"... on the flywheel end, or the pulley end of the crank?

Well, the site won't let me insert an MP4 or .AVI type video file, either one...I can't find out what kind it will accept... so, no video of the OBD scan results for you.

View attachment 9225
Have you tried switching out the crankshaft sensor
I have 4 R50 pathfinder 2 of them had to replace these. Crank sensor will shut down your car instantly or sometimes might get some distance then die. No warning lights or SES light. And this sensor normally watches the flywheel.
Or as said . Maybe something got hit , possibly this sensor, their cheap and easy to replace.
 
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