wath should really matter here is the ECU. but, IMO the FSM/manual wont tell you this... because there is so much ecu on the market from different country, they all got they're own tuning from each country due to wath polution control, temperature, sea level ect .... that why they all get different seting. As for a b13 with an E16s ... i cant help.dburone said:But the engine is a E16s, it doesnt matter in which country i am or which car the engine is on, right?
I already have a narrow band sensor and it stays steady in the middle even at full boost, but how does this tell me if timing is good or if im having detonation?velardejose said:Get an o2 sensor, even a narrow band will help (generic, from any fi car, 1 wire for simplicity purposes)
See if your exhaust o2 content arises at 5000 rpm (voltages under 0.7)
That will give you an idea about this
A broad band o2 sensor is the perfect tool but you will find it at around 500 dollars...
IIRC, you can do that by changing the port size of the vacuum advance on the carburetor. But if you mess up you're pretty much screwed.dburone said:I also need to change the curve on my distributor, but im not sure how.
At what rpms do you have 25 of advance?velardejose said:I had a 0.5 - 0.6 reading before I switched to bigger jets, now the reading stays between ~0.65 at idle and 0.8 at full throttle (140 main gas jet before, 170 after)
And the car pulls noticeable stronger
I advanced my timing to 25° and reading stays at 0.6 idle and 0.7 full throttle
Pulls stronger...
With that timing, how does it run from a standstill and is it easy to start on the mornings?velardejose said:All
This dist has a fixed advance, 25° at idle, 2k, 5k and up