i have a small problem with my e brake. when its fully engaged, it will not stop the car from rolling while it's in drive and no pressure on the gas. in order to pass nj state inspection, the car must be held with the e brake while it's idling in d. my question is what can i look for on a broken e brake? also, is there a way to adjust it tighter to grab better? i know it's at least engaging somewhat because i can hear some grinding when the car moves while the e brake is on. any help is greatly appreciated!
e brake probs. must fix to pass inspection!
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check your brakes and see if they are good. also i will look and see if there are any other adjustments
i know my front disc brakes are bad and need to be replaced, but i was under the impression that the e brake only locked up the rear drum brakes. in which case they are relatively new and should be fine. i was wondering if i should adjust the rear brakes with that little star wheel thats on the rear brake assembly to get them to grab better.
anyone else have any ideas?
anyone else have any ideas?
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145 Posts
Sounds to me like you just need to add a little more tension to the cable. There should be an adjustment nut in the brake handle itself. If you have the factory service manual, there is a whole section about brakes and should be a sub-section describing how to do it step by step. If you don't have the manual, check the sticky above.
P.S. How did you pass NJ state inspection if you have bad front brakes?
P.S. How did you pass NJ state inspection if you have bad front brakes?
they give you an inspection sticker for 2 years, in which case when i passed the last time the front brakes weren't all that bad and wern't touching the squealers. they squeal now but as long as the brakes stop the car during their test, they"ll pass you. i just have go easy for a while till i get some new rotors and pads for the front.
on a side not, i think i have a leaking wheel cylinder. i have a squishy brake pedal and i have to add brake fluid every 2 weeks or so. is that a big job or can i pull the part from a junkyard and do it myself? i believe it to be the wheel cylinder because i took off the left rear hub and there was a substance surrounding the wheel cylinder. i looked at the right rear and it was completely clean (well dry not exactly clean). there's no fluid near the master cylinder or booster and i also check the wheel bases frequently and cant find any fluid pools. anyone have any ideas for me??
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686 Posts
if it's a wheel cylinder, you can buy new for >$20. HOWEVER chances are you will be dealing with massive rust and break off a bunch of things trying to replace it yourself. if you do want to attempt it yourself, you will need PB Blaster to soak the fittings and bolts with for a few days before you attempt disassembly.
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