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I bought a 1997 hardbody .the motor is locked up bought a 97 engine today the distributor plugs are different. the one on the engine i bought had a square plug and the one in the truck has a oval shape plug and a smaller one and help on this plz?
 

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Sup Mod keeping the peace
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Either the distributor on your old engine is not an OEM or the one on the new engine is not OEM. Use the distributor from the old engine.
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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The engine you purchased is not a 97 engine. 1996 and 1997 Hardbodies had the two plugs, an internal ignition coil and a distributor cap with four towers for the spark plug wires but no tower for the ignition coil (because it was internal, obviously).
1990-1994 Hardbodies w/ KA24E engines had distributors with the square, 4-pin plug and used an external coil, thus it had five towers on the distributor cap (4 for the spark plug wires plus 1 in the center for the coil wire). Also, there were two types, a Hitachi distributor and a Mitsubishi distributor. While either distributor would work on the 90-94 engines, the Hitachi and Mitsubishi distributor caps and rotor buttons were not interchangeable. So, as mentioned, just use the distributor from your 97 truck.
 

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Sup fellas seen this thread regarding distributors so figured its related to my surprised situation on my 89 se, many of you guys already know my journey threw hell for a lifetime it seemed, anyways has anyone ever had a problem with a cylinder that wasn't getting spark, but if plug removed and put near something metal it would spark off it yet when placed back in its cylinder location it wasnt firing spark plug in that cylinder ? So obviously i just bought all new ngk plugs figuring its was a bad plug being wire sent spark when placed to metal surface. All plugs replaced and with the two rear driverside cylinders those plugs were practically black (raw fuel) so after installed go and start it up and there's no noticeable difference the only reason i even realised this problem was cause was thinking carburetor was too small for air/fuel delivery for engine this size, cause for being 6cly and fairly small size it be alot quicker than has been since conversion, but after months of tuning fast idle and air/fuel screws it always had strong odor of gas smell and getting around 9 miles/gallon if driven conservatively so basically its a fuckin gas hog and for the power given in return i knew something was wrong.
Let v8 buddy of mine who also tinkers with motors drive it and told me its not running on all 6 but rather 4 or 5 !!!!! BEFORE YOU GUYS SAY ANYTHING SURCASTIC !!! I know the signs and actions of a motor not running on all cylinders and never would've thought of this being problem being it starts up immediately without any hesitation no backfires or stumbling acceleration or ruff idles, however only two plug wires that you remove while engine idling does make a change in rpm is the 2 rear driverside cylinders but if place plug wire near metal surface it sparks away put it on old spark plug and it sparks away. Put the shit back on brand new plug in cylinder and get no change in idle. Pulled plugs on those two cylinders and those brand new ngk plugs are wet as hell and pure black in color.. HONESTLY, NOT ONLY HAVE NEVER SEEN A MOTOR RUN SO CONSISTENT AND NORMAL YET 2 OF 6 AREN'T FIRING, BUT WORSE WIRE HAS SPARK ON END WHEN CLOSE TO METAL SURFACE AND WHEN PUT ON A PLUG, BUT NOT WHEN NEW PLUG IS IN CYLINDER AND WIRE PLACED ON IT THERE'S NO SPARK !!!!!!!! WTF pls 😭 tell me how this can be ?? compression test done on both cylinders and have 127/128psi.
 

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Sup Mod keeping the peace
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If your plugs are not firing properly, you may have a weak coil or the power transistor is bad. Even though when pulling a plug and testing it on the outside shows a spark, the KV output may not be high enough to spec; when the spark plug fires inside the combustion chamber, the compression generated on the compression stroke can very easily blow out the spark resulting in incomplete combustion or no combustion.

Also inspect the carb fuel level making sure it's at the proper level. If it's too high, it can cause a very rich mixture.
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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What is the compression on the other four cylinders? Compression should be 172 psi @ 300 RPM. 128 psi is the minimum that the compression should be, which suggests to me that there may be an issue such as worn rings or a blown head gasket between cylinders. 14 psi is the difference limit spec between cylinders, so that's why I would want to know what the compression is on the other four. Did you do both dry and wet compression test? I would also seriously consider doing a cylinder leakdown test.
 
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