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I'm not sure on that one...seems odd to me. Someone else will have to help you out with that.

How far past? 5 degrees? 10? More? For anyone that knows, would it be possible that stretch/wear in the timing chain will cause this?
It doesn't actually reach the 1st line of the mark its before any marks on the pulley like 1 1/2 inches away from the 1st line. :(
 

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i cant get the needle on 10 degrees for nothing lol its like really close to it but not exactly on it. im just going to take mine to a shop or a nissan dealership. cause i mite have other problems. ugh this is stressing and i start school aug 16 so it has to be ready to go by then
 

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IM SO GLAD I FOUND THIS POST BECAUSE I JUST FIXED MY TIMING. NOW I NEED TO GET SOME NEW SPARK PLUGS BECAUSE WHEN I BOUGHT MINE IT WAS IN NEED OF A TUNE UP. EVERYTHING WAS FROM 93 UNDER THE HOOD. IM TALKIN THE 93 AIR FILTER. THE 93 SPARK PLUGS. ONLY THING THAT WAS NEW WAS THE OIL CHANGE. BUT I REPLACED EVERYTHING EXCEPT SPARK PLUGS. THANKS AGAIN TO "Oliverr87" I APPRECIATE IT
 

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Checked my timing today, did as suggested by setting base idle first to 650 rpm.

Car off, disconnect TPS and fan.

Start car with timing light connected and RPMs run up to 1900 on their own. I stabbed the gas a few times but that didn't do anything. With the TPS disconnected, the initial throttle response is terrible.

If I connect the TPS they go back down. With TPS disconnected it runs higher.

So I started screwing in the IACV screw and bottomed it out and got the motor to 1300 RPMs. I was thinking the IACV was dirty and after a couple minutes of running like this the car something must have freed and the RPMs dropped in half or more.

I backed the IACV set screw out and got the Idle RPMs to ~650.

Checked timing and it was set to 7 or 8 BTDC. I set it to 10.

Put everything back together and tightened up and car seems to run a bit smoother, maybe it's just me.
 

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With the TPS disconnected, the initial throttle response is terrible.
Throttle response will be bad when the TPS is disconnected because one of the 'functions' of the TPS is to act as a sort of 'accelerator pump' for the ECU.

Checked timing and it was set to 7 or 8 BTDC. I set it to 10.
Over time (a LONG time), as the chain stretches out a hair, the tensioners get pushed farther out, the timing gears lose a bit of their teeth, etc., the timing will appear to back up a bit. Normal wear and tear. Well, that and the fact that not each and every distributor cap/rotor, etc. is made absolutely exactly identical to the next one...

Also, if you didn't do the timing set/idle set EXACTLY as the FSM says, you'll be shooting yourself in the foot and be fighting the ECU the whole for control of the idle and timing. But...it looks like you got it licked.
 

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got a rough idle on my ride when in 1st gear, cant reach 20kms or even 10 kms before shifting to 2nd gear. I use to shift on 2nd gear at 5 kms coz beyond 5kms tend have a very rough irritating idle. whats causing this? cleaned already the throttle body, MAF, TPS, AAC-AICV, FICD, base idle, ignition timing. Need to check if theres an error code in the ecu but no chance to visit a dealer for CONSULT diagnose. also when going to neutral position, idle goes up for couple of seconds then down to normal idle rpm . Can anyone help me?
 

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Thanks guys! Also remember, you cannot set the timing properly IF base idle is messed up! For those people, here is another write-up I did on how to adjust idle. Base idle for manual transmission GA16DE is 650 RPM, 750 RPM for automatic. Make sure idle is correct BEFORE adjusting timing!

1. Warm up and shut off
2. Disconnect fan and TPS
3. Restart and rev 3 times to 3000 rpms
4. Adjust via idle screw, clockwise idle decreases, counterclockwise idle increases
5. Once idle is set, turn off and reconnect TPS and fan

good tip here, i tried it earlier today and got a stable idling at 800rpm but after an hour i starrted the car and the rpm is now unstable and fluctuating, and needs to restart again.

what do you think is wrong? ryt now rpm is at 3-400.

thanks!
 

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I just changed my dizzy as it had an internal oil leak and I suspected a timing issue. Timing was way off... there are 5 marks on the crank pulley... literally double the distance of those marks over again and that's how far out the timing was, as in count from the beginning 12345 then 12345 again and that's where the needle was. It is now at 10* Idles so smooth and accelerates way smoothererrer than it did. She still falls on her face in the upper RPM's but I suspect a bad cat... slight sulfur smell at the tail pipe and 197,xxx miles. Also it blew a head gasket and got water and oil in the exhaust at one point before I bought the car and it had fouled plugs as well as a bad thermostat. My header will be here in a few days. The step by step at the beginning of this post was just fine for my 1997 200sx SE 5-speed.

:givebeer:
 

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Hi,I'm ovner of Primera ga16de(pulsar in usa)British made since 1998.My car Has lpg system is there anyone knows what is the best timing for LPG For 1998 ga16de?I adjust 10 degree but iddle is not stable.When I set 15 degree Performance going down and much lpg spending.what is the right degree for lpg instead of gasoline?
 

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I just did timing on my 94 and it read fine at 12 degrees when my idle was around 950 RPM's. I lowered my timing to 700 by tach on car and it lowered my timing from 12 BTDC to 5 BTDC. I then A few hundred RPM's will really change your timing a lot. AMAZING!!! Make sure you set your idle to 650 RPM's before you adjust your timing first!!!!
 

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I just did timing on my 94 and it read fine at 12 degrees when my idle was around 950 RPM's. I lowered my idle to 700 by tach on car and it lowered my timing from 12 BTDC to 5 BTDC. A few hundred RPM's will really change your timing a lot. AMAZING!!! Make sure you set your idle to 650 RPM's before you adjust your timing first!!!!
This is what I should have typed the first time:

I just checked the timing on my 94 and it read 12 degrees when my idle was around 950 RPM's. I lowered my idle to 700 by tach on car and it changed my timing from 12 BTDC to 5 BTDC. Changing the RPM's from 950 to 700 really changed my timing a lot. AMAZING!!! Make sure you set your idle to 650 RPM's before you adjust your timing first!!!!
 

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Nissan Primera P10 with GA16DE

Hi folks! I'm having a problem with adjusting the base idle and timing with my Prime. I'm from Finland so i have to excuse if i'm having some lingual difficulties.

The problem is; when i get to the point where i am supposed to adjust the base idle to 650 rpm when TPS is disconnected, I CAN'T GET IT TO THE SPECIFIED RPM's! When the idle screw is turned all the way to clockwise, the car runs about 1100 RPM's with the TPS disconnected. When i connect the TPS again, the car runs about 800 RPM's.

I tried to check for vacuum leaks and i found none. I tried to check that the throttle plate closes fully and the "idle-up thermo element" isn't blocking the throttle from closing all the way. They seemed to be OK.

Then, i took off the entire throttle body, cleaned the MAF, adjusted the TPS that was actually not in the specified Kilo-Ohms when the throttle is closed. My repair manual says that the resistance of the TPS should be 0.5 Kilo-Ohms when closed throttle. It was 0.7 Kilo-Ohms.

Then i took off the IACV and the FICD and also cleaned them up.

Then i installed the throttle body and tried the idle-adjusting again. STILL HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM! The car just continued idling 1100 RPM's when the TPS was disconnected and the idle screw is bottomed out!

Therefore, i can't get to the timing adjusting point because i'm stuck with this goddamn idle problem that is really frustrating.

I am VERY VERY VERY thankful if someone has a cure for my problem. Something just isn't normal....

Thank you, from Finland. :)
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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guys, im a newbie here, my questions is, can a CONSULT II determine the degrees of the engine? instead of a timing gun?
Not on a GA16DE engine...at least, not that I am aware of. It can only tell you what the timing "should" be.
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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Hi folks! I'm having a problem with adjusting the base idle and timing with my Prime. I'm from Finland so i have to excuse if i'm having some lingual difficulties.

The problem is; when i get to the point where i am supposed to adjust the base idle to 650 rpm when TPS is disconnected, I CAN'T GET IT TO THE SPECIFIED RPM's! When the idle screw is turned all the way to clockwise, the car runs about 1100 RPM's with the TPS disconnected. When i connect the TPS again, the car runs about 800 RPM's.

I tried to check for vacuum leaks and i found none. I tried to check that the throttle plate closes fully and the "idle-up thermo element" isn't blocking the throttle from closing all the way. They seemed to be OK.

Then, i took off the entire throttle body, cleaned the MAF, adjusted the TPS that was actually not in the specified Kilo-Ohms when the throttle is closed. My repair manual says that the resistance of the TPS should be 0.5 Kilo-Ohms when closed throttle. It was 0.7 Kilo-Ohms.

Then i took off the IACV and the FICD and also cleaned them up.

Then i installed the throttle body and tried the idle-adjusting again. STILL HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM! The car just continued idling 1100 RPM's when the TPS was disconnected and the idle screw is bottomed out!

Therefore, i can't get to the timing adjusting point because i'm stuck with this goddamn idle problem that is really frustrating.

I am VERY VERY VERY thankful if someone has a cure for my problem. Something just isn't normal....

Thank you, from Finland. :)
You may have a bad IACV-AAC valve; they do go bad, at times.
 

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That makes sense... when i have the time, i should go and try to clean it better. Because now when i'm thinking, i didn't actually got it "shine-like-brand-new" clean. :eek: Maybe it wasn't enough... well, i try to clean it with more powerful CARB cleaner instead of BRAKE cleaner. If it doesn't work, i should try to borrow another IACV from another Primera.

Thanks again! I appreciated your answer very much :)
 

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By the way, under the hood of my 1997 200sx SE 1.6L with Manual transmission there is a sticker that says idle should be 675rpm's not the 650 listed several times in this post.
 

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Well I finally solved this issue:


When I unplug the TPS my idle goes up and I can't time the car.
--------------------------------------------------------------


It was because I needed to unplug the AAC valve (the larger solenoid attached to the idle air control unit).

More info here: Unplug TPS and idle raises problem solved
 
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