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It fired one minute, it didn't fire the next. Totally baffled by this. I have no idea what is going on but I drove my truck up to my property on a pretty warm day if that matters, and it sat for about 15 min. went to go start it...and no start. It cranks but doesn't fire. It's getting spark, and after I crank it over and pull a plug it's caked with gas. Also when I crank it over it seems to have way less compression and the Bendix gear sounds like it's spinning faster. I'm going to do a compression test but does anybody have any other ideas, I sure would appreciate it. Thanks, cweklund
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah will do, but could it be a blown head gasket! I mean there was no overheating, no steam rolling out from under hood, idk.
 

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It fired one minute, it didn't fire the next. Totally baffled by this. I have no idea what is going on but I drove my truck up to my property on a pretty warm day if that matters, and it sat for about 15 min. went to go start it...and no start. It cranks but doesn't fire. It's getting spark, and after I crank it over and pull a plug it's caked with gas. Also when I crank it over it seems to have way less compression and the Bendix gear sounds like it's spinning faster. I'm going to do a compression test but does anybody have any other ideas, I sure would appreciate it. Thanks, cweklund
Are all the plugs fouled with gas? i.e. flooded. If they are, that's saying that there's no ignition or it's very weak. The spark plugs may be very old or the ignition system has a problem.

Replace the spark plugs, then try to start it. If it won't start, look at the plugs again. If only just a few are getting flooded, those fuel injectors are leaking very badly or the ignition wiring is bad.

A good way to test for leaking fuel injectors is to Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge between the fuel feed hose and the fuel rail. Turn the ignition key to the run position but DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE, then turn the ignition key to OFF. The fuel pressure reading should be around 43 psi which would be a static reading. Now watch the gauge; if it starts dropping down fast, that's an indication of a fuel injector(s) leak.
 

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2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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You don't mention what engine you have. If it's a V6, you may have a broken timing belt. Remove the distributor cap and have someone crank the engine and see if the rotor moves. If it doesn't, your belt broke. A lot of times they break during startup, when there is more of a load on the belt teeth at the crank sprocket. If that's the case, it's probably good news because they usually don't bend valves unless the belt fails at highway speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You don't mention what engine you have. If it's a V6, you may have a broken timing belt. Remove the distributor cap and have someone crank the engine and see if the rotor moves. If it doesn't, your belt broke. A lot of times they break during startup, when there is more of a load on the belt teeth at the crank sprocket. If that's the case, it's probably good news because they usually don't bend valves unless the belt fails at highway speeds.
Sorry about that, it's a 4 cyl.
Are all the plugs fouled with gas? i.e. flooded. If they are, that's saying that there's no ignition or it's very weak. The spark plugs may be very old or the ignition system has a problem.

Replace the spark plugs, then try to start it. If it won't start, look at the plugs again. If only just a few are getting flooded, those fuel injectors are leaking very badly or the ignition wiring is bad.

A good way to test for leaking fuel injectors is to Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge between the fuel feed hose and the fuel rail. Turn the ignition key to the run position but DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE, then turn the ignition key to OFF. The fuel pressure reading should be around 43 psi which would be a static reading. Now watch the gauge; if it starts dropping down fast, that's an indication of a fuel injector(s) leak.
Ok, thank you, will try
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You don't mention what engine you have. If it's a V6, you may have a broken timing belt. Remove the distributor cap and have someone crank the engine and see if the rotor moves. If it doesn't, your belt broke. A lot of times they break during startup, when there is more of a load on the belt teeth at the crank sprocket. If that's the case, it's probably good news because they usually don't bend valves unless the belt fails at highway speeds.
Sorry, it's a KA24E
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I did a compression test, the right way this time (damn it) and I'm getting 95lbs. in all 4 cyl., with 4 rotations of the motor. This may sound stupid but I was talking to a friend about weak spark and I can only see spark when dark I can't really see it during the day he was saying that that is probably a weak spark and that I should be able to see it pretty easy during the day if it was weak, is that correct? If that's the case I'll have to get a timing light, check timing and I'll do another check on the spark plugs see if they're all fouled when I turn the motor over. Thanks everybody any more suggestions would be appreciated.
 

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Your compression readings on all cylinders is extremely low, so it's not surprising that you have trouble starting up the engine. The readings should be: standard - 192 psi, minimum - 142 psi, differential between cylinders - 14 psi.

Pour a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder; spin the engine several revolutions, then perform the compression test again. Make sure your compression test tool is in good condition; you might try to use another test tool to be sure.

You should be able to see a good spark during the day. Messing with the timing is not going to improve the spark intensity. Make sure you're getting 12V to the coil. The coil may be marginal or the power transistor is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Your compression readings on all cylinders is extremely low, so it's not surprising that you have trouble starting up the engine. The readings should be: standard - 192 psi, minimum - 142 psi, differential between cylinders - 14 psi.

Pour a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder; spin the engine several revolutions, then perform the compression test again. Make sure your compression test tool is in good condition; you might try to use another test tool to be sure.

You should be able to see a good spark during the day. Messing with the timing is not going to improve the spark intensity. Make sure you're getting 12V to the coil. The coil may be marginal or the power transistor is bad.
Ok we'll do. Thanks a bunch!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok we'll do. Thanks a bunch!
. So I know this doesn't pertain exactly to the problems with my D21 but the ECU blinks once then 2 slow blinks, then 3 fast ones then 4 fast ones then 5 fast ones and repeats this sequence over and over. I can't find this certain code anywhere. Does anybody know this code??? Thanks, cweklund
 

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. So I know this doesn't pertain exactly to the problems with my D21 but the ECU blinks once then 2 slow blinks, then 3 fast ones then 4 fast ones then 5 fast ones and repeats this sequence over and over. I can't find this certain code anywhere. Does anybody know this code??? Thanks, cweklund
When it blinks once, turn the knob to select Mode 1. When it blinks twice, turn the knob to select Mode 2. Etc.
 
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