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I definitely do not have a rod knock and compression is good, so no blown head gasket either. What screwed my engine up was the bad injectors I bought of ebay. All 4 were bad. It made it run really bad, shot oil out of the loosened oil filter (from the engine rocking) and blew white smoke out my exhaust...making me think the head gasket was blown when the car died at a light.

I took it in for a diagnostic...the guy said most likely cylinder slap but also could be a wrist pin.

Are there any oils that you guys can recommend to help my ka live a while? The mechanic suggested slick 50, sounded like a good idea to me. Or a good high molybdenum oil, like red line oil.

He seemed to think I could run this engine for a while with no problems. Anyone have catastrophic failures on their ka's with these problems?

I was thinking (fantasizing?)of going ka (rebuilt)turbo, collecting components when a good deal pops up. Guess I will get piston rings, connecting rods, and pins first.

Should take me 10 years to get it together. Gotta poker night coming up next weekend..maybe get cash for it. With my luck lately I will probly lose my beer money too.
 

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LUCKY SLIDES 2 2/25/06
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313ryans said:
I definitely do not have a rod knock and compression is good, so no blown head gasket either. What screwed my engine up was the bad injectors I bought of ebay. All 4 were bad. It made it run really bad, shot oil out of the loosened oil filter (from the engine rocking) and blew white smoke out my exhaust...making me think the head gasket was blown when the car died at a light.

I took it in for a diagnostic...the guy said most likely cylinder slap but also could be a wrist pin.

Are there any oils that you guys can recommend to help my ka live a while? The mechanic suggested slick 50, sounded like a good idea to me. Or a good high molybdenum oil, like red line oil.

He seemed to think I could run this engine for a while with no problems. Anyone have catastrophic failures on their ka's with these problems?

I was thinking (fantasizing?)of going ka (rebuilt)turbo, collecting components when a good deal pops up. Guess I will get piston rings, connecting rods, and pins first.

Should take me 10 years to get it together. Gotta poker night coming up next weekend..maybe get cash for it. With my luck lately I will probly lose my beer money too.
well i've had 3 wrist pins break at once and the car dropped to one cylinder but it still caught second lol but yeah its definately got catastrophic problems in the long run you'll end up blowing something up but you could drop a heavier weight oil in it till you get enuff money to rebuild it and wutnot and i'm also goin turbo with the KA24e i'm tired of everyone telling me i need to get an sr20 i want to have something thats not seen as much but if you start on the turbo build up keep me posted so i'll have somewhat of an idea of how to go with the turbo set-up but check gladmanperformance.com for turbo manifold.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #3
spooledmotorsports.com has rebuilt turbos. They said they could throw a package together for $1500. Does not include downpipe,manifold, intercooler piping and misc. brackets though. They said something about a company that makes ka24e manifolds...said they were junk and broke within a week. Would not say what company though.
 

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Are there any oils that you guys can recommend to help my KA live a while? The mechanic suggested Slick 50, sounded like a good idea to me. Or a good high molybdenum oil, like Red line oil."[/i]

I would never use a suspended-solid product like Slick 50. Period.

I have suggested a high-moly oil to piston slap sufferers in the past ... and it's hard to find an oil with more moly than Red Line. Did you find an old post of mine here? :confused:
 

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My suggestion...don't drive it if it's got a piston slap or wrist pin problem... You keep driving it and it'll hand gernade on ya (blow up).... and you don't want that... no lubricant is gonna help a piston slap or wrist pin, well imo anyway...
 

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" ...don't drive it if it's got a piston slap or wrist pin problem ... You keep driving it and it'll hand gernade on ya (blow up) ... and you don't want that... no lubricant is gonna help a piston slap or wrist pin."

Piston slap is usually a bit of extra tolerance in the cylinders which allows movement 'slap' when the piston is cold and somewhat shrunken.

My Honda Civic 1.5L began to show signs of this around the 90,000 mile mark. You should have heard it when it was filled with SJ Mobil1 (no moly) on a morning when it was 5F degrees out. I continued to drive it until the 132,000 mile mark and then sold it to a neighbor of mine.

I saw her a week ago. Car still runs great. Must have 160,000 miles on it by now.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
"I would never use a suspended-solid product like Slick 50. Period.

I have suggested a high-moly oil to piston slap sufferers in the past ... and it's hard to find an oil with more moly than Red Line. Did you find an old post of mine here? :confused:[/QUOTE]"


...Now that you mention it, it probably was an old quote of yours. Makin the most of my search button.

The rattle noise is constant @ 2500-3000 rpm, so I think it is more likely the pin. The mechanic thinks it is more likely cylinder slap.

I am debating about selling my prized guitar for $2-3000 to cover rebuild/turbo summer project. Problem is, I have a home recording studio project I have been working on for 4 years that just needs guitar and vox tracks. The material is good (depending on your definition of good) and was ahead of its time 4 years ago...the basic ideas are still unique now. A cross between math metal (botch,DEP) post industrial(early download), and noise rock(vintage butthole surfers), with a hint of aphex twin. Good fun psychological damage.

So I want the KA to live untill next summer...
 

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He seemed to think I could run this engine for a while with no problems. Anyone have catastrophic failures on their ka's with these problems?
I had the same problem and my car now only runs on 3 cylinders and blows smoke on daily basis, so I dont drive it now... And it sucks. Mine knocked at the same rpm. It will only get worse and if you get on the car to hard it will just shorten that time even more. I miss my 240sx but Im getting my new engine in sometime soon, if the freaking mechnique will call me. I went to a sr20 but th KA is a great engine.
 

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well i've had 3 wrist pins break at once and the car dropped to one cylinder but it still caught second lol but yeah its definately got catastrophic problems in the long run you'll end up blowing something up but you could drop a heavier weight oil in it till you get enuff money to rebuild it and wutnot and i'm also goin turbo with the KA24e i'm tired of everyone telling me i need to get an sr20 i want to have something thats not seen as much but if you start on the turbo build up keep me posted so i'll have somewhat of an idea of how to go with the turbo set-up but check gladmanperformance.com for turbo manifold.

Don
my car started having this knocking sound and i was told i have a broken wrist pin but it cant be repaired and I have to replace motor. they used a boroscope to check for scoring and checked codes and came back good. they said no sludge found either. my question is, can this be repaired without replacing motor? i have a 2007 nissan ultima with 58,000 miles. runs great other wise. i need some advise whether to believe I have to replace engine because it can't be repaired any other way. i have an extended warranty and nissan says since its running fine they probably would not pay for repairs or replace motor. but they do not know that for sure.
 
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