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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello. Okay so the other day while draining my tranny again to make sure I did not overfill,, I noticed that the CVaxle boot has been leaking and spitting
grease out onto the tranny. A couple of years ago i put a hose clamp on the axle boot and it kept the grease in for that long and in fact at one point
I ordered a replacement but, sent it back because it was not leaking. I think I have used up all of the bandaids.
So, it is not clicking or anything but, I know you can replace just the boot or repack the boot I guess I am wondering about the symptoms
other than the clicking. It feels sort of like a drag on my car Idk if that is why or not. I definitely do not want to be stuck out with a broke axle.
On ROckauto they have the Cardone, FVP, GSP, APWI and Trakmotive. The only one I have really heard of is the Cardone and the Trakmotive I guess I will order the
Cardone.

Is this repair something that I could do? I have watched videos. It has been a while. I am looking at the cvaxles on rockauto and wondering
besides the Nissan one which would be best and the most complete one to order and it any of the brands are better than the other.

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If the joint is clicking it definitely needs to be replaced. Nissan CV's pretty much all have ball bearing outers and needle bearing tripods in the inners, and if you've ever seen destroyed needle bearings in a U-joint, the effects are similar. Vibration, noise, and dragging are pretty much par for the course. Changing the left axle isn't a huge job, but you do need to either break the lower ball joint or dismount the knuckle from the strut, so it isn't an easy job either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If the joint is clicking it definitely needs to be replaced. Nissan CV's pretty much all have ball bearing outers and needle bearing tripods in the inners, and if you've ever seen destroyed needle bearings in a U-joint, the effects are similar. Vibration, noise, and dragging are pretty much par for the course. Changing the left axle isn't a huge job, but you do need to either break the lower ball joint or dismount the knuckle from the strut, so it isn't an easy job either.
Cool,I have already replaced the struts myself so I did have to dismount the knuckle already before. All of the rockauto cvaxles have neoprene boots and I heard they do not last but is there a brand of cvaxle that I should not buy ?
 

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On an Altie I'd stick with a new one and not a reman, but other than that, most of the aftermarket stuff is pretty good. Regardless of the boot material, the biggest reason boots die is simple neglect. Hit them with a little rubber conditioner as part of your regular servicing and any boot will probably outlive the vehicle.
 

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I've recently been impressed with the quality of the import direct axles, they used to be meh quality with 1 of every 12 or so being questionable off the shelf, over the last 2 years that has stopped and even high powered turbo builds aren't grenading them like they used to, though in those turbo builds they are tending to wear out around 25k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I ended up getting this one. Just got it today. But, think I will wait until next week to replace it since everyday this week through the weekend it will be 102 to 105 degrees outside.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
On an Altie I'd stick with a new one and not a reman, but other than that, most of the aftermarket stuff is pretty good. Regardless of the boot material, the biggest reason boots die is simple neglect. Hit them with a little rubber conditioner as part of your regular servicing and any boot will probably outlive the vehicle.
Just opened the CVAXE to see this warning. Is this something obvious? What is the intermediate stub shaft?
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
On an Altie I'd stick with a new one and not a reman, but other than that, most of the aftermarket stuff is pretty good. Regardless of the boot material, the biggest reason boots die is simple neglect. Hit them with a little rubber conditioner as part of your regular servicing and any boot will probably outlive the vehicle.
This is the only video that I could find that was for the 5th gen or maybe this car is a newer one.
 

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Gen5's are pretty much the same under the hood from '13~'18. That warning label is weird, though. Nissan doesn't use stubs like that, the axle should be male-splined at both ends. If it isn't, that's the wrong part. The car in the vid is a gen6, but where the axles are concerned they're not terribly different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Gen5's are pretty much the same under the hood from '13~'18. That warning label is weird, though. Nissan doesn't use stubs like that, the axle should be male-splined at both ends. If it isn't, that's the wrong part. The car ib the vid is a gen6, but where the axles are concerned they're not terribly different.
here is a pic of each end. DOES IT LOOK RIGHT? I ordered from Rockauto, My year and under the cvaxles for my car
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Gen5's are pretty much the same under the hood from '13~'18. That warning label is weird, though. Nissan doesn't use stubs like that, the axle should be male-splined at both ends. If it isn't, that's the wrong part. The car in the vid is a gen6, but where the axles are concerned they're not terribly different.
SO, i have not worked much lately dealing with other stiff but one thing I have to do is replace this axle at least i think so But, Something else is going on and I do not know what to make of it. My car seems to be not wanting to go. I know that sounds weird best way i can deescribe and fron what i can tell the love data looks fine but one sensor that I have changed several times but not here lately is the Oxygen Sensor. I am trying to remember symptoms but i do remember a code and there arre no codes, no noises. Has all the fluids Could the oxygen sensor be starting to fail causing this? Or is the cvaxle which I have ever heard only seen grease make it feel like it has a drag? Any ideas? Did you have a chance to look at pics above to see if the ends look right?
 

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Could the oxygen sensor be starting to fail causing this? Or is the cvaxle which I have ever heard only seen grease make it feel like it has a drag? Any ideas? Did you have a chance to look at pics above to see if the ends look right?
Only the front O2 (actually a wideband A/F) can cause symptoms like that, the rear O2 can't. But the ECM will usually detect a bad A/F, so it's a bit unusual for it not to produce some sort of code, even if it's just a generic lean code. There are pretty much only four things that can cause "draggy" behavior like that without any codes at all, MAF, dirty Throttle Body, low fuel pressure, or a weak-but-not-dead cam or crank sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Only the front O2 (actually a wideband A/F) can cause symptoms like that, the rear O2 can't. But the ECM will usually detect a bad A/F, so it's a bit unusual for it not to produce some sort of code, even if it's just a generic lean code. There are pretty much only four things that can cause "draggy" behavior like that without any codes at all, MAF, dirty Throttle Body, low fuel pressure, or a weak-but-not-dead cam or crank sensor.
Would short and long fuel trims or fuel level input give me a indicator? My car does not support many other fuel checks on the blue driver. Checking fuel pressure is no fun. I have done it before. I hooked up a gauge and taped it to my windshield and drove it around it got great fuel psi but pain to check. The other things you mentioned are easy. Thank you for reminding me about the maf and throttle body.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Will clean maf and Throttle body first and hope that fixes it. in the past I did replace the crankshaft sensor, I should have done the other one also. Thanks
 

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At least the cam sensor is easy-peasy if that turns out to be the issue. If you haven't cleaned a TB before, don't ever work the throttle plate manually. Forcing the mechanism is where guys screw up and hurt the TB. Ignition-on-engine-off and either brick the accelerator or have an assistant floor it, so the motor opens the plate for you. I use a toothbrush, pay most attention to the bottom edge and back-lower half, that's where the most carbon builds up. Make sure you do IAVL after cleaning the TB and MAF. BTW, CVTz50 has some very nice engine work support including IAVL. Rogo turned me on to it. You just have to enable "experimental features" in your app.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
At least the cam sensor is easy-peasy if that turns out to be the issue. If you haven't cleaned a TB before, don't ever work the throttle plate manually. Forcing the mechanism is where guys screw up and hurt the TB. Ignition-on-engine-off and either brick the accelerator or have an assistant floor it, so the motor opens the plate for you. I use a toothbrush, pay most attention to the bottom edge and back-lower half, that's where the most carbon builds up. Make sure you do IAVL after @cleaning the TB and MAF. BTW, CVTz50 has some very nice engine work support including IAVL. Rogo turned me on to it. You just have to enable "experimental features" in your app.
IVAL INTAKE AIR VALVE ? I am sorry and what is CVTz50 a reader ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Omg I just saw demo for the CVTz50 I have not checked out yet sure hope it gives good info wished it could monitor levels of tranny fluid thanks for the referral
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
IVAL INTAKE AIR VALVE ? I am sorry and what is CVTz50 a reader ?
Actually then in probably do not clean TB properly only one time have I ever put something down to the plate and wiped it off. But it is hard to tell unless you take the bottom hose clamp off and maybe I will do that next time. I sprayed tb cleaner and cleaned maf pulled out #1 plug and it looks good. And cleaned the back sensor since I had replaced the front before I just sprayed it off with TB cleaner and vacuumed air box check filter and it is back perky. Cannot wait to check out the app
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I thought you had CVTz50 already, sorry. Get a VeePeak VP11 adaptor for your OBD, CVTz50 is fussy about the adaptor you use and the VP11 is cheap and proven. IAVL stands for Idle Air Volume Learn, it basically recalibrates the MAF and TP in your ECM's memory.
 
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