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Discussion Starter #1
As long as I've owned my Sentra (almost two years), it has made muffled popping sounds while steering at low speeds. I never knew why and never worried about it. Well, within the last two weeks or so, it made a louder clicking sound in the morning while pulling out of the driveway; this has only happened twice. It only happened while steering while the car was stationary.

Anyways, it sounded similar to the telltale clicking sound of a bad CV joint and I was wondering if my CV joints are going bad. If they aren't bad, then what's making the sound? If they are bad, is it difficult to replace CV joints at home, without power tools (like with ratchets, screwdrivers, hammers, etc.), or can it be fixed for ~$300 at a shop? Also, where is the best place to buy replacement CV joints? How much would the parts cost?

I haven't looked in the factory service manual for the fixing procedure because you have to be a mechanic to understand any of the instructions.

Thanks in advance.
 

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It is definitely a DIY project, using no extraordinary tools. However, if you don't know your way around a car it would make more sense to pay a shop to do it. I've replaced 3 CV boots on my Sentra so far with no problems.
 

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Exchange axles with lifetime warranty are around $60
Biggest problem IMHO would be the 32 mm nut on the end of the axle....undoing it then re-tightening to 150 ft pounds...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the advice. I'll probably have a mechanically-inclined friend help me with the project. It's nice to hear that a pair of axles would only be $120.
 

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They're really pretty easy if you have a lift. My mechanic son can replace one in about 10 minutes, even with me watching him to make sure he doesn't strip the splash guard bolts.:)
 

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How do I get the cv cage and balls out on a passenger side joint, closest to the tire?
There must be a trick, I've gone Toyotas a bunch of times.

I'm trying to replace the torn boot.
 

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The GA and SR outer CV joints come off the axle, they are held on with a spring clip like the axle end in the transmission.
I tried to use a slide hammer on mine with the axles still in the transmission but couldnt get it to work.
Removed the axle and held the axle in my bench vice, hit the joint with a drift, popped off first try on both GA and SR cars.
Its in the FSM if you are not sure what I am trying to explain.
 

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I don't know about automatics, but with a manual trans

Your probably going to want to drain it before removing the axles, and I have removed mine without disconnecting the steering ball joint from the spindel. you disconnect from strut and cock it one way or another while forcing the shaft in the transaxle to get it out of the spindle and then release it from the transaxle by carefully prying it out.
 

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Thanks guys. Got it to work just how you said. Didn't pry ball joint out. Not worth the hassle. Just pulled the strut bolts out.
 
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